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Author Topic: Airfoil Thickness  (Read 589 times)

Offline Motorman

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Airfoil Thickness
« on: December 13, 2019, 09:37:52 PM »
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« Last Edit: August 27, 2021, 12:31:48 PM by Motorman »

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Airfoil Thickness
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2019, 11:35:06 PM »
That's a pretty large wing for the desired engine size. I would try to keep the thickness down to 16% or less. I designed a pretty decent 1/2A for an .049 at 201 in2 and 16% and liked it. So if you try to stay to strict scaling from the larger plane, I'd go smaller than 300 in2. If you thin the wing, maybe it'll pull it at 300. Everything else needs to be pretty low drag and low weight, too.

The 1/2A Pathfinder is only 236 in2. The Hunter Stunter is 225 in2. The upsized modern Tercel is 246 in2 but has the advantage of lower drag from a full fuse. The one I saw that was nearly finished had an awful lot of wood in it. Hard to keep the weight down unless you have magical wood, or get really happy with the sanding block.  (I prefer to build thinner, and accurately and not "buy it back" with sandpaper.) If you want to go bigger, then look at the size and weight ranges that Rich Porter achieved with his Ridiculous. That escapade resulted in a 555 in2 plane at 20 oz using a TeeDee milked for all it was worth, including car head heatsink, etc. But he needed a ton of outthrust to get that combination to work for him.  (Model Aviation July 1985, August 1985.)

So it also depends big time on how hard you are going to run your engine. Combat prop and a million rpm? It won't have the disk area so the flying speeds to carry thru maneuvers will likely need to be higher--but it'll pull a larger plane.

The Divot

Offline Larry Renger

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Re: Airfoil Thickness
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2019, 06:42:51 PM »
The Baby Pathfinder and Pinto are two great flying models. My Baby Magician is about as good as it gets. Look REAL hard at all of them to set up your sizing.

As a rule of thumb, design scales just fine. You just have to control the weight. Scale it down, but use the next SMALLER wood size when between standard sizes. Small models don’t stress the structure as much, and weight is really critical.

Use the full airfoil, and control the wing area to match available power.

If using working flaps, go to the low range of wing area, as the drag in corners is higher.

Also, be aware of the relative performance of your intended engine. The power range from a WenMac up to a Cyclon .061 is at least a factor of 10. Tell us what engine, fuel and prop you plan to use and we can give you more specific advice.
Think S.M.A.L.L. y'all and, it's all good, CL, FF and RC!

DesignMan
 BTW, Dracula Sucks!  A closed mouth gathers no feet!

Offline wwwarbird

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Re: Airfoil Thickness
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2019, 07:32:58 PM »
 All good advice from Larry and Dave above. Without going into a bunch of percentage calculations and assuming you're running a decent powerplant, don't be afraid to use a "real" airfoil with a round L/E and bit of thickness to it. It's 1/2A though, your main goals are to keep it simple and LIGHT. Aerodynamically, stick with eyeball proportions relative to the "big" airplanes. Thin airfoils have typically been the weakest link in many 1/2A designs IMO. Again, and as with all our models but especially 1/2A, keep the weight down as much as possible. Adhere diligently to these guidelines, get your engine running good, make the right choice on lines, and then be amazed at how well a 1/2A model can perform.  y1
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Airfoil Thickness
« Reply #4 on: December 16, 2019, 02:05:07 PM »
Go to this link: http://aeromaniacs.com/Freeplans.htm

Study the "Half Lite" plans.

That design came in third in Advanced at the Northwest Regionals with a Norvel 061; I saw it -- it was an awesome flight for any flapless stunter, and all the more awesome for being a half A.

Note that it has a wing area of 187 squares -- that's much smaller than you're thinking of.  I suspect that 300 squares would be a better fit for a wimpy baffle-piston 19 or a good strong Schneurle 10 (note that Brett Buck reports that a Veco 19 is nearly as strong as an OS 20FP -- so don't look at the baffle and think "wimpy").  Or maybe a twin running Norvel 049s?
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.


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