For the sewn hinges, I predrill the holes with a template.  The thread is 1/2A flying line.

For the cloth hinges, I dope up the wood pretty good, about four coats or more.  Then get the cloth to lay down with some water and dope them down.  Use clamps and scrap wood to align the surfaces and just do one or two hinges at time.

I just use a good stout needle and eyeball the hole locations.  I always get a good workable hinge, but if I were aiming for top notch appearance I'd probably at least mark things out before hand.  I use carpet thread.

I glue a 1/16" thick piece of spruce or basswood to the edge of each surface to have a sewn hinge.  To get a good finish, the spruce should be a little bit wider than the thickness of the surface, thats allows you to sand it flush down to the surface for a perfect fit.  Drilling holes is not necessary.  I lay a ruller along the edge of the surface and use a pin to layout a series of marks at 1/4" increments, just at the edge of the piece of spruce.  Do the same thing to the mating surface, except to offfset this set of the holes by 1/8" from the 1st set.   Then I come back with the needle that I will eventually use to sew, but without any thread, and push it all the way thru the balsa at each of the marks to make them like pilot holes, which makes the sewing easier.   I start in the middle and sew a continuous figure 8 stitch out to each tip.  Kinda looks like a baseball stitch..

Have you guys tried the Kevlar thread?   I like the idea of a template, but then I would where I put it.  So I use a ruler and marking pen.

Here is a photo of the little guide I made.  It is upside-down.  The tab goes into the slot between the surfaces, then run a pin through each of the holes.   

Thanks for the responce to this thread.  You guys are a lot of help.  I finally got a couple of elevators done this week.  I am not an expert at either method at this point.  The sewn hinge does seem to move a bit more freely than the cloth hinge.

Sorry for the picture quality.  Camera battery low, and memory card nearly full.

I have done cloth hinges before. This time I tried using dope instead of glue.  It is also probably the most careful cloth hinges I've done.  I'm wanting to use a clear finish that will let the wood grain show on the stab/elevator and main wing.  Since the hinges will be visible, I wanted them neat.

I can't remember ever using sewn hinges before.  I did learn that if the stitches are pulled too tight the thread can cut the balsa.  I did make pilot holes for the needle.  I really like the way it turned out.  I hope the stitches all but disappear when painted.

"I can't remember ever using sewn hinges before.  I did learn that if the stitches are pulled too tight the thread can cut the balsa.  I did make pilot holes for the needle.  I really like the way it turned out.  I hope the stitches all but disappear when painted."

Wayne, The softer the wood the more this would be a problem but no matter because you only need it to be snug. No reason to overdo it. As for the stitching disappearing, if this were a wound or scar I could see your point but when did the high contrast of blood red stitching on a white baseball become unsightly? Besides in my humble opinion this shows the level and care of your craftsmanship, something which would be sadly lacking if you were dealing with an ARF for example.

Maybe it is just me but I wouldn't be bothered if the stitching were visible.

Robert

Several times, when I thought it appropriate,  I have used the green mint flavored dental floss.