This may be to simple of an answer to your questions, but if you want to get the right answers to your questions you might try calling John Brodak.
Larry

Other than my disability and some level of depression. I hold an A&P certificate.
I can work in metal,composite,weld,solder,use just about every tool. Though not real profecientnt with major machining. Andriviting these days is out of the question.
And spelling is just a memory....
I'm trying to determine if electric on 1/2A is a matter of ugly looking assembly.
Or can look neat and be functional with out big lumps on the wing and looking like bombs ducttapes to the model.

On the keep it light front - remember you don't need to fuel proof anything.  Even unpainted wood is OK.

Unpainted wood won't get fuel soaked on an electric.  But it'll warp up like crazy if you fly over damp grass a few times.

So slap on a few coats of something for waterproofing, and away you go.

Yes, it is a profile. But that does not mean it should look like it has jumper cables attached to it and a transistor radio duct taped to the wing as a big ugly lump.

Well, you could take this project as a challenge to figure out how to make it all look good!  Just off the top of my head, making a cowling to go over the right front quarter of the fuselage to hide all that stuff would be nifty, if you didn't mind the time & weight.

So what I'm looking to see is will the set-up for the baby clown work on a baby magician with a 30 inch wing. Or do i need something smaller like the miss ashley ?

In the "List your setup" thread (http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=12044.50) there's a bunch of examples and some pictures.  I did a summary of this (toward the bottom), and it seems that the 1/2A plane's estimated consumption is around 8 - 10 watts/oz.  You probably want to size the motor at 25% to 50% bigger.  To calculate the battery capacity used go with
capacity in mAh = (1000 / 60) * (flight time in minutes) * (power in watts) / (nominal voltage)
note that nominal voltage = 3.7 times the number of cells, i.e. 11.1 for a three-cell pack, or 7.4 for a two-cell.  Note also that you'll want a pack that's substantially bigger than the capacity you think you'll use -- you want to end up using about 75 - 80% of the pack capacity, so take the above number and multiply it by 1.3 or so.

I.e:

For a 10 oz plane, expect to use 80 to 100W.  For six minutes you'll use 480 to 600 watt-minutes (funny units, yea yea yea).  With a three-cell pack that works out to a capacity of 720 to 900mAh used.  You don't want to drain the pack dry, so figure on a capacity of 950 to 1200 mAh.  You also don't want to work the motor on the edge of it's capacity (and you want some power to spare in case your plane is a bit porky), so figure on a 120-150W motor.

Forgive me if the math isn't clear -- I'm rolling this off the top of my head.  I trust my numbers, but I'm sure it could be expressed in a way that's easier to understand.

Here are a couple of pictures of my electric. Yes the battery is out in the breeze but it's below the wing so it doesn't stand out too much. You could actually get the battery to fit deeper into the wing or mount in 90 degrees to what it is and really hide it more. I don't think it looks to messy and it flies really well.

The motor mount is a plywood disc that I very lightly fiberglassed on the nose of the plane. You need the extra stiffness thus the glass. It has been pretty sturdy.