Hey Larry,

I'll take 5' of it now just to see, more later if it works well.  $5 to you ASAP.  Thanks.

P.S. Sent you a PM.

Just an interesting update:  I have a Baby Clown which I set up to take a Space Hopper engine (precursor to the Tee Dee, but reed valve, and a darn hot runner usually).  With standard small fuel hose, the engine would not run.  Simply could not suck fuel through the standard small ID hose.  I put on some of the new stuff and it runs gangbusters!  Happy me!!!   

        LARRY, would this fuel tubing work for the Cox tubing thats used on the internal fuel tanks? I was just asking a club member this weekend about the type that was used inside of the Cox engines. The older style Black Widows and Babe Bees used a small diameter hard tubing. The newer versions used a slightly larger more flexible tubing used on the plastic backplates. I've been trying to switch to all die cast backplates due to the failures of my plastic ones. A lot of my 1/2 a planes now are using external tanks. My son has intiated some of the club members to try some 1/2 a mouse racing. I've been searching for any way possible to recondition and hop up my black widows. Not to change the subject, we just bushed a crankcase with an oillite bearing. I've been noticing most of my crankcases from the 80's are now terribly worn out . I noticed most of the fuel pick up tubes were in very bad shape when we dismantled these engines. Hopefully, if the weather holds out a few more weeks we can get a few races in.   Ken

          Larry, for quite some time now I've been constantly asking myself why one Black Widow works better than some of the others. I noticed the majority of them which I purchased in the early eighties have a lot of side to side crankshaft play. This wasn't always a bad thing until the point in which they just wouldn't turn up like they used too. The engines would develop a harmonic vibration which would kill rpm's off. This was audible in flight as well. I would go through my junk pile of Cox parts and search for better fitting cases. You had mentioned before of polishing Ok crankshafts in a drill press. I took this idea and applied it as well to the cases when I'd retrofit them. This brought back a lot of life in these engines. I discovered that any varnish in the oil groove would act as a brake when the engine got hot and surely wouldn't allow the rpm's were lookin for. I talked to Dan Banjock about this and we figured we could bush the case provided there was enough room. We discovered several things prior though. The Sure Start cases seem to very soft compared to the older 70's version cases. We also figured the anodizing in the Black Widow cases allowed for tighter fits at least until the anodizing wore off. The eighties version Black Widow case is what we opted to use. Dan made a jig to hold the case which bolted to the back of it. He then bored the hole for the new bearing. He didn't want to have to machine the bearing from the inside once it was installed so using the same jig he pressed the bearing until it seated on the jig. We discovered that some of the cases had a bit of a difference from back of drive plate to the inside of the case where the crank seats. Dan also filed an oil groove in the bearing just like the stock case had. I ran the engine this past weekend for the first time. I didn't fly it yet but I was very shocked in the smoothness of the ran. Dan and I want to tach the engine as it is currently then take the piston cylinder off and switch it into another case and check the rpm's. Dan feels if we don't see a significant increase in rpm's its just not worth it. I feel otherwise though. First off, he's already made the jig to hold the case in the lathe, the longevity of this case makes it worth it. I will let you know more about this engine. I have a few others that I'd like to see done.  Ken

It seems that Small Parts company no longer exists. Major bummer! Anyone know of a similar company?

You should be able to look up the hose in the McMasters-Carr online catalog. Look at silicone hoses