KBS Diamond Clearcoat

[Mike Griffin]

I was at our field this Sunday and a friend of mine had a SAKITUMI that he had finished the fuselage in red and it had a shine that was brilliant.  I asked him what he used and this is the product he used.  He brushed it on right out of the can and there were NO brush marks that I could see and It made a beautiful finish.  You can also thin it and spray it.
Here is the link to the product.  If anyone else has used this, please tell us how it worked..

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html

[Claudio Chacon]

Wow! According to the product description, It seems to be the PERFECT product for our finishing purposes.
- No hardener is needed (that's definetly a plus!)
- Resistant to MEK and acetone -both very aggressive chemicals- , which tells us that it should be immune to nitro as well.
- It can be wet sanded and polished.
- It's even high temperature resistant up to 325ºF!

What else can we ask for?
I wish I could get my hands on a can to try it down here...

[Steve Helmick]

Wow! According to the product description, It seems to be the PERFECT product for our finishing purposes.
- No hardener is needed (that's definetly a plus!)
- Resistant to MEK and acetone -both very aggressive chemicals- , which tells us that it should be immune to nitro as well.
- It can be wet sanded and polished.
- It's even high temperature resistant up to 325ºF!

What else can we ask for?
I wish I could get my hands on a can to try it down here...

I am interested enough to check for retail locations (funny what they call them..."resellers", I think). Closest is 212 miles for me, each direction. Probably a nice drive, but maybe not this time of year...  Steve

[Steve Thomas]

Thanks for posting this, Mike - I'm always on the lookout for products like this. I just checked and found an outlet only 10 minutes away from home, so I'll pick some up and try it out on a Vector I've got underway.

[Reptoid]

Only drawback is potential to add alot of weight with that high of a solids percentage. Go easy

[Mike Keville]

Only drawback is potential to add alot of weight with that high of a solids percentage. Go easy

Took the words right out of my mouth.  Product sounds marvelous, but I'm wondering what the weight gain is.

[Dan McEntee]

  I've heard of some guys trying to use the stuff they put on bowling alley lanes to make them slick, shiney and glossy. Trouble is, bowling alley lanes don't have to fly and try to turn a five foot radius corner. At least I have never seen it done. And I don't often drop bowling balls on my airplanes. Doors and other stuff, yes, but bowling balls, no.
   Type at you later,
    Dan mcEntee

[Mike Griffin]

I ordered a quart and I will try it on the fuselage of the Imitation I am building and see how it works.  I called the company today about thinning it and they said it can be thinned up to 30% and they would only recommend their thinner of course but the guy did tell me some guys he knows have used Xylene with great results....we will see....

Mike

[Garf]

$35 a pint, $50 a quart, $10 per order shipping? Is it worth it?

[Brett Buck]

Only drawback is potential to add alot of weight with that high of a solids percentage. Go easy

   Hard to add a lot of weight just painting the fuselage, but the more solids, the less you have to apply. Klass-kote epoxy has the general consistency of Jello and a cup of it is incredibly heavy, but you only need to just dust it on to get adequate coverage. It usually turns out a lot lighter than an equivalent dope finish.

    Brett

[RC Storick]

The problem with the epoxy type paint is that is does not get hard enough (like urethane) to machine buff to a high gloss. While new things are always coming out I will just wait on the reports and finish the way I know works for me. But do keep us up to date on this product.

[Brett Buck]

The problem with the epoxy type paint is that is does not get hard enough (like urethane) to machine buff to a high gloss.

    Both K&B and KlassKote get *rock hard*, much harder than dope. The problem with them is not that they do not get hard enough, the problem is that once they cure solidly, it's like trying to sand a diamond and very difficult to even break the glaze. The colors can't be shined because the solid content is so high that you can only get it as shiny as the individual pigment grains will allow. K&B was pretty notorious for cracking at corners of fabric-covered surface it was so hard.

    Most Hobbypoxy, on the other hand, was indeed like spray-on rubber and indeed cannot be shined properly. I think most of that was because they may have made up a batch or two in the 70s, then sold it for the next 30 years, and it was grossly out of date and never cured properly.

    Brett

[RC Storick]

   Both K&B and KlassKote get *rock hard*, much harder than dope. The problem with them is not that they do not get hard enough, the problem is that once they cure solidly, it's like trying to sand a diamond and very difficult to even break the glaze. The colors can't be shined because the solid content is so high that you can only get it as shiny as the individual pigment grains will allow. K&B was pretty notorious for cracking at corners of fabric-covered surface it was so hard.

    Most Hobbypoxy, on the other hand, was indeed like spray-on rubber and indeed cannot be shined properly. I think most of that was because they may have made up a batch or two in the 70s, then sold it for the next 30 years, and it was grossly out of date and never cured properly.

    Brett

OK I guess I don't know what I am talking about. So I'll just keep doing it my way. Also I was speaking of Urethane which is much harder than epoxy and not gummy. which is why epoxy doesn't polish well. Gray scochbrite will flatten any paint in a heartbeat. If grey don't red surely will.

Let the painters speak up please. Randy, Phil and a host of others who have experienced this with epoxy. let me hear your views.

[Claudio Chacon]

I ordered a quart and I will try it on the fuselage of the Imitation I am building and see how it works.  I called the company today about thinning it and they said it can be thinned up to 30% and they would only recommend their thinner of course but the guy did tell me some guys he knows have used Xylene with great results....we will see....

Mike

Great Mike. Please keep us posted...

[Claudio Chacon]

The problem with the epoxy type paint is that is does not get hard enough (like urethane) to machine buff to a high gloss. While new things are always coming out I will just wait on the reports and finish the way I know works for me. But do keep us up to date on this product.

What product do you use for clearcoat, Sparky?

[RC Storick]

What product do you use for clearcoat, Sparky?

Sherwin Williams clear Utathane .

[Claudio Chacon]

Sherwin Williams clear Utathane .

OK. I assume It's a 2 part formula? Is it fuel proof enough (I mean, against crude fuel with -say- 15% nitro)?

[RC Storick]

OK. I assume It's a 2 part formula? Is it fuel proof enough (I mean, against crude fuel with -say- 15% nitro)?

yes its 2 part and I have spilled 15% on it. I am sure if I let it sit long enough that it would do something. Nitro is some nasty stuff.

[Claudio Chacon]

yes its 2 part and I have spilled 15% on it. I am sure if I let it sit long enough that it would do something. Nitro is some nasty stuff.

Thank you.

[RC Storick]

Thank you.

This is their auto line of paint not house paint

[Claudio Chacon]

This is their auto line of paint not house paint

Yes, I undestand.
I use PPG Deltron D-880 and D-841 Hardener, which is an EXCELENT product (and, by the way, is totally fuel proof up to 15% nitro) but VERY expensive here in Argentina. That's why I'm always looking for substitutes of equivalent quality and less price. Not an easy task!

[RC Storick]

cost about 50.00 a quart including hardener. Problem is you usually throw out 90% of the hardener which is 28.00. Once opened it does not keep for long a month tops is all I would trust.

[EddyR]

I think this is it in spray cans. http://www.eastwood.com/diamond-clear-gloss-for-painted-surfaces12-cans-cs.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&adtype=pla&kw=&matchtype=&network=g&creativeid=15752128407&placement=&producttargetid=40408680207&gclid=CNvE07_EpLUCFQf0nAodB0cAkA

[RC Storick]

great but I don't need a case of it.

[Perry Rose]

A single can for bare surfaces is $12.99 part number10200z. For painted surfaces part number 10196z, same price. Phone is 800 345 1178. Or eastwood.com.

[Claudio Chacon]

cost about 50.00 a quart including hardener. Problem is you usually throw out 90% of the hardener which is 28.00. Once opened it does not keep for long a month tops is all I would trust.

That's way cheaper than the PPG stuff I use. The great feature about the PPG hardener is that it has a surprisingly long shelf life, as I can attest (there are no indications at all about shelf life on the label, though). I bought it more than two and a half years ago and it is still in perfect condition (I use it last month with no problems whatsoever).

The new Diamond clearcoat product that Mike posted seems to be like a final solution for us, as I see it (IF the product is as good as the manufacturers claim to be).
It has every desirable characteristic we can ask for, PLUS -and this is a BIG one- it's a ONE PART ONLY formula, which means:
- Less toxicity (ANY two part stuff is extremely toxic).
- No more hardener waste.
- No more mixed product waste. What's left in the spray gun after you finish painting, can go right into the can again. We can't do that with a two part clear.

Looking forward to Mike's report...

[RandySmith]

I hope it is better than the rest of the miracle one part Poly U' s I have used many of them and they all turn yellow after time and sunlight, They also are hard and seem fuel proof, but slowly fuel makes them gummy. Plus they are not as light as dope

Randy

[Mike Griffin]

Randy I am going to try some on the fuselage of my Imitation.  I will weigh it before I put in on and then after and report back.  Might take me a while to get that far with my back like it is....

Mike

[Steve Helmick]

Better than trying it on your Imitation, try it on a test panel suitable for both weight checking and fuel resistance.  Steve

[Mike Griffin]

Good Idea Steve...

Mike