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Design => Stunt design => Topic started by: Tim Wescott on July 06, 2010, 07:33:00 PM
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Where to put my adjustable leadout guide, since I didn't seem to make it with much range? (15/16" range, 1/2" spacing, in a 9" chord wing+flap).
I'm thinking put it so that when the guide is centered on the design CG I have 1/4" of forward movement with the rest toward the back -- or should I put it so that it's all the way forward when it's at the design CG? (I certainly don't anticipate the CG ending up much further back than my intended point, if at all).
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Where to put my adjustable leadout guide, since I didn't seem to make it with much range? (15/16" range, 1/2" spacing, in a 9" chord wing+flap).
I'm thinking put it so that when the guide is centered on the design CG I have 1/4" of forward movement with the rest toward the back -- or should I put it so that it's all the way forward when it's at the design CG? (I certainly don't anticipate the CG ending up much further back than my intended point, if at all).
I am not sure I understand, but center of the leadout guide will always behind the CG. Typically, for a 40-69 sized piped plane it's around 1-1.25" behind. Use LINEII to figure out the natural sweep angle, and put it there.
Brett
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I make my track assembly 3 in long with a 2 inch total possible movement of the slider, and generally have leadouts 1/2 to 3/4 in apart. I wouldn't anticipate any problem installing one in a 9 inch chord wing. Maybe you and I are looking at the measurements differently.
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I make my track assembly 3 in long with a 2 inch total possible movement of the slider, and generally have leadouts 1/2 to 3/4 in apart. I wouldn't anticipate any problem installing one in a 9 inch chord wing. Maybe you and I are looking at the measurements differently.
I sorta copied the old Top Flight adjustable lead out guide from memory, and I sorta just made the longest track I could given the jig that I used (which happened to already have a couple of holes drilled in it).
So I could make a new track. Ick. I took Brett's suggestion to use LineII (except that it's LineIII now), which is very informative vis-a-vis where I want the leadouts.
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I make my tracks out of 1/8 square hardwood strips glued together. Three in. long strips top and bottom, Half in. short pieces between on either end. Gives me an accurate and smooth 1/8 wide center hole.
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I make my tracks out of 1/8 square hardwood strips glued together. Three in. long strips top and bottom, Half in. short pieces between on either end. Gives me an accurate and smooth 1/8 wide center hole.
Oh, that's too easy.
I milled mine on a 3-in-1 machine. Why? Because it was there! It sounds like -- even given that the plane is smallish -- I should make a longer track.
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Oh, that's too easy.
I milled mine on a 3-in-1 machine. Why? Because it was there! It sounds like -- even given that the plane is smallish -- I should make a longer track.
Yep
Bill
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I make my tracks out of 1/8 square hardwood strips glued together. Three in. long strips top and bottom, Half in. short pieces between on either end. Gives me an accurate and smooth 1/8 wide center hole.
I do the same using 1/8" square spruce. Gives you a nice 1/8" slot for 4-40 clamp screw and brass eyelets.
The slider plates are made from 1/16" phenolic.
My latest also has vertical adjustment as suggested by Frank McMillan in recent Caudron 9 article.
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Thanks for the idea of the 1/8th sqaure material. Still learning soomething everyday. H^^
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I used to make my own sliders, which always worked correctly. Now, a very nice one is available from Brodak. No more "home brew" sliders for me.
Floyd
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I used to make my own sliders, which always worked correctly. Now, a very nice one is available from Brodak. No more "home brew" sliders for me.
Floyd
HI Floyd,
Me too, but, I still make one if I don't have any in the drawer! LOL!!
Big Bear