I an returning to stunt after a two decade siesta. I am not surprised that electric flight is a thing now and I’d like to explore it. The problem is I have no idea where to start. I have read up a bunch on how the power systems work, so fine. But how to design a model for it?
Ideally I would like to build a new model from scratch for my first try at it. Are there any write ups on the design changes needed to the nose of a stunt ship? Hoping there is some literature or even posts on this board that can help educate me.
I’ll probably want to build a 550 sq in sized ship. Thanks.
I may be a good one to start this off since I just returned in 2017 after a 30 year trip in the wilderness. On my first trip to the circles I was lucky enough to find two of the local experts practicing. We chatted for a few minutes then I was treated to a show I did not expect. First, a piped 75. Holly .... not your grandfather's Fox 35 but that was just the warmup. Next up was Mike Scott with an electric and my reaction on landing was, to quote Will Smith, "I gotta get me one of these".
Enough memory lane. I build my own from scratch too so here is what is truly different. The rest you can gather from the many threads on this exact subject well hidden in the archive search. First, No Oil! That means you can build and finish with anything you want. Second, no vibration. This has a + and a - attached. The plus is that you don't build the nose like Ft. Knox anymore. The minus is that without vibration, the controls need to be really free to keep them from sticking = hunting. Third, everything gets hot. With IC all you had to worry about was cylinder on the air and venting after the flight. With electric you need massive airflow over at least 4 components. Then there is changing the battery. You need some kind of hatch where you can pull out one battery and put in another. The rest of the airframe is about the same.
If you build your own it would probably be wise to design your own as well. Most of the planes out there today were designed for IC and converted to electric even if they were build from scratch to be electric. So here is my 2 cents on design. Make the nose fatter. The one I have on the workbench is 2 1/4 wide at the nose. Design the nose around your mount. There are three basic types, the nose ring front, the forward firewall mount and the rear firewall mount. The motor vents through the motor, not around it so you need a larger spinner gap. Those fancy spinners with holes in them don't do much.
The battery is heavy. Make sure you mount it, not just stick it in a hole and close the hatch. It weighs about 10 lbs in a corner and you don't want 10 lbs flying around inside your nose. You are going to feel like the plane is really going to be nose heavy. Well here is the good news, the CG on an electric will end up well forward of where it would be using IC on the same plane. I have asked folks far smarter than me why and the answer is always "it just is". And really, it is.
I admire your wanting to jump right in and build a full-body electric PA but keep one thing in mind. You have a whole new technology to learn and a whole new way of building. Electric is a whole new game and it wouldn't hurt to build something simple like a Twister or Pathfinder to learn how to use the power train with everything exposed.
Ken
As usual I type slower than Tim and Dan. They know their stuff! By the way, those 700 square foot planes have larger motors.
Picture is from my Endgame design. This is a rear through the firewall mount. Motor mounts to the back of the firewall with blind nuts on the front. Got the idea from Bob Hunt.
Topic: How to redesign an IC model for electric (Read 7779 times)