stunthanger.com
Design => Stunt design => Topic started by: Target on April 30, 2015, 11:22:08 AM
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So, yes I'm a newbie in C/L, but not modeling in general.
I've noticed that a lot of the top builders always put two hinges in close proximity to each other at the tip of the wing/flaps.
What is the reasoning behind going this?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Chris
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I had the same question. One of our "experts" said that:
1. the Du-Bro Nylon pinned hinges are still a bit flexible after installation
2. the end of the flap is unsupported (or rather, "single-supported"). So, extra rigidity is needed to prevent aerodynamic distortion.
Is that right?
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That's sort of what I thought the reason was, thanks for the chime in.
A wider hinge if made, might be the way to go then.
Regards,
Chris
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Over the years I have seen a lot of hinges break at the tip,cloth and plastic. I started putting two hinges at the tip a long time ago. I think Gene Martine told me to do it. There must be a lot of force at the tip. If you judge a lot you see things that many others miss. I have seen crashes that were traced back to flaps coming loose before the crash. ~^
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Over the years I have seen a lot of hinges break at the tip,cloth and plastic. I started putting two hinges at the tip a long time ago. I think Gene Martine told me to do it. There must be a lot of force at the tip. If you judge a lot you see things that many others miss. I have seen crashes that were traced back to flaps coming loose before the crash. ~^
Hey Eddie,
I agree 100%. Now, I'm back to using nylon taffeta for all hinges and saving about two ounces on every model. They are fully hinged so no more sealing hinge lines with tape.
Later,
Mikey
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Are you using the cloth style of over/under alternations with that material?
Or are you laminating in between two layers of balsa at the hinge lines?
Thanks,
Chris
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Are you using the cloth style of over/under alternations with that material?
Or are you laminating in between two layers of balsa at the hinge lines?
Thanks,
Chris
Hi Chris,
Yep! I use the over and under type only full length of the flap or elevator. I apply them with dope thinned 50/50 with dope thinner. Use a good pair of sheers to cut them out. Next, draw a line on the flap or elevator where to end the hinges so they are all the same length. Maybe not necessary but it looks much better. Once they are dry, cut small lengths of silk span and apply over the top of the hinges and dope in place. Lightly sand the silk span over the hinges, then cover the surface as normal (silk span or poly span).
They last a long time. I have 15 year old Aries and they are still good as new.
Later,
Mikey
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I also read here that sometimes the flaps at the tip will flutter. If the plane is already built and having this problem, an over/under stitch about 3 passes wide makes a nice strong reinforcement right at the tip. I make stitched hinges with dacron flying line and pre stretch it before sewing it. It looks like one of the 3-wide stitches in this 1/2A elevator.
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Hey Eddie,
I agree 100%. Now, I'm back to using nylon taffeta for all hinges and saving about two ounces on every model. They are fully hinged so no more sealing hinge lines with tape.
Later,
Mikey
I second that! y1
Jerry
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Many builders like to pre-finish wing and flaps separately. The DuBro pinned hinges allow that.
I use Taffeta hinges on OTS planes, for sake of authenticity. One problem: once you hinge with cloth, there is no way to fix a bind caused by mis-alignment.
Floyd