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Design => Stunt design => Topic started by: Ron Varnas on March 30, 2009, 12:39:26 AM
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Hi all,
I'd like some comments, on the 'correct' location for Adjustable leadout guides,
noticed some ( read a lot) of designs show the LO guide mounted in the tip rib,
this is fine if the tips narrrow i.e 1" block tip etc, but other larger tips are in the
3" ~ 4" range this is a decent distance from that tip rib :-\
apart from the obvious line 'sawing' that could occur in this area, another thing is
how these 'loose' lines affect the models stability.
for mine I'd try & mount the LO guide as far as possible out in the tip itself , not
the tip rib
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Ty,
Dee Rice uses this technique which he says he got from someone else (could not remember whom)! It is light and allows no sawing. Once the ideal position is established a drop of cement can be used to make it permanent. The actual tip is three layers of plywood drilled to receive the eyelets. The middle layer (1/16 or 1/32) is only present in front and behind the adjustable area so the lines can be moved through the slot when the eyelet is pulled out of the tip. This follows the KISS principle!!!
John
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The moveable eyelets work fine. The first time I just looked at mine, they fell out, and I had only a rough idea what hole they came from. Moral of the story is to make them a snug fit, and a little drop of Ambroid (or Tarzan's Grip) will make sure they don't fall out. They tend to look a little ratty.
I kinda like the slider setup better, but put it as close to the exit as you can possibly manage. The one I'm flying now is recessed quite a bit, and it's difficult to see how much I've moved it, because the mark is out here and the screw is way in there. H^^ G'day, Steve
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Dee's method looks like the one on the Impact plans. It works fine. I wouldn't have believed that it would work, but I saw planes with thousands of flights on them (and leadout position changed on most every flight) that successfully used them. A shim made from a fragment of paper towel keeps them snug.
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I set my over/under LO adjustable guides at the extreme edge of the tip.
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I have used both methods and have never had a problem with the plug in leadouts. I have had the slider come loose twice in my humongous's. I think I need to use stouter plywood for the bracket as the slider bolt seems to come loose after a while. Thank goodness I had the sense to put a nylon locknut on the back side of the adjustment bolt so that at least it stayed captured in the slot.
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I think, not sure, that Al Rabe credited Lew McFarland with the plug in leadouts. I don't like them because of inadequate building skills and that they don't give infinite adjustment like a slider does. I agree that the leadout guides should be as near the tip as feasible. I have built several airplanes with them a bit further in. I think if you get sawing, it is a sign that your airplane is out of trim.
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The first time I ever heard of the plug in adjustment was a Bob Hunt video. The HumBug had them and I don't beleive I will ever use them again. Over on the other forum(SSW) there was a post on building wing tips with the leadout guides. I copied it and use it on all my planes now, even replacing the kit wing tip construction with it. If I wasn't so lazy I would go look for it for you. The same guy even shows how to make the slider. DOC Holliday
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I used the slider type lead-out adjustment on my "Megas Aetos" Model Aviation April 1985 and won't use any other lead-out type. Works great, why change... :)
Roger Greene