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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Scale Models => Topic started by: Avaiojet on December 11, 2018, 10:15:25 AM
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Well, by popular demand, looks like I'm going to move forward and do a Build on my TEXACO 13 project. I've already posted some information here and there.
A really slow build to play it safe. ;D Not sure where to place the Thread yet?
Semi-Scale in appearance but it will stunt, probably not the pattern, but R/C throttled for unlimited touch n goes. Just a colorful sport model to have some fun with.
Fun. #^
I've had this aircraft on my mind since the late 80's. It's about time I did something about it.
Aircraft and my drawing.
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Ought to be an interesting project. Post pics as you go.
Gary
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Looks like it should more than qualify as a scale airplane for a contest. It should fit very nicely in the sport scale category. If not it will compete in the Fun Scale category. Looks like you are going to model it after an airplane you own. If so good color photos should be a snap. If it will do loops and wing overs it will be a slam dunk on the flight score. Go to the AMA site and look at the rules. I have flown some scale. Great bunch of people. Really fun contests. Also lots of info in the scale section of this forum. #^ #^ y1
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Hi Charles....here's a little something to wet your appetite! Cast iron baby. I've noticed that it doesn't seem to be very floaty! LOL
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That full scale original, the Travelaire Mystery Ship, hangs in the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry. I’ve thought to do it myself as a full stunter- someday.
Dave
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Ought to be an interesting project. Post pics as you go.
Gary,
Thanks for the reply.
I will Post photos, that's part of what a build is all about and it adds interest to contributing to the Forum.
Looks like it should more than qualify as a scale airplane for a contest. It should fit very nicely in the sport scale category.
John,
Thanks for the reply. Well you know I have little interest in competing, but you never know. My luck, first place will be an ARF, and I won't even make the board. LL~
Hi Charles....here's a little something to wet your appetite! Cast iron baby. I've noticed that it doesn't seem to be very floaty! LOL
Glenn,
Hey! Hey! Thanks for the reply. I think I have a cast airplane, but can't rember what it is? n~
That full scale original, the Travelaire Mystery Ship, hangs in the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry. I’ve thought to do it myself as a full stunter- someday.
Dave,
Yes, Chicago, I know that. There's also a dozen photos on line of the aircraft taken there. Many views and living color.
Thanks for the reply.
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John,
Thanks for the reply. Well you know I have little interest in competing, but you never know. My luck, first place will be an ARF, and I won't even make the board. LL~
I never came in first. That's not the point. The point is getting together with a great bunch of folks and to see and be seen. #^
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I never came in first. That's not the point. The point is getting together with a great bunch of folks and to see and be seen. #^
John,
I just saw your reply.
That is really funny. LL~ LL~
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All tail feathers are drawn.
I'll print them to scale and see if I have the balsa needed to make them.
If not,
Ring, ring, "Hello, Tom Morris."
Maybe I'll build the model from the back forward.
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Working around this Smoothie ARF wing creates issues, it's not the same aspect ratio as the TEXACO 13.
So Semi-Scale it will be.
Looks like the wing is 1/7 scale and the fuselage is 6.8 scale. And I'm not redrawing the fuselage parts.
I gotta check my math.
On the ground viewed at 300 ft you won't be able to see the difference.
Stab area increased a tad and the wing re-located a bit for better balance.
Same with the gear.
I'd like to see this Thread moved to Scale Models Forum.
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With your own design and scratch building, you're faced with questions not normally considered when building a stock kit.
For example:
Size of the model and power choice. Engine or motor?
How much detail will I need with my personal drawings/plans? The more detail the better, possibly. Extra work.
Do I cut this "Smoothie" wing in half and rejoin it for a small dihedral? Looks nicer. Extra work.
Ailerons? Pen lines to represent them or cut them out for a more interesting and scale look? Extra work.
Spring or shocked landing gear? Keeps the model from getting beat up a bit. Extra work.
1/8 or 3/32 gear wire? Weight trade off for strength? Not necessarily.
Removable wheels? Benefits. Extra work.
Wood selection? Totally your own decision. Give up strength for light? Maybe not. Use what wood you have? I like that.
Type of construction? Past building experience and the type of models you have experience building can determine this. Still have to pay attention to wood choice.
Fiberglass parts? Could work in areas depending on the model. May or may not save weight and could or could not offer benefits. Extra work.
Removable rudder and vertical stab? Makes shipping easier, smaller box if the model gets sold. Extra work.
Adjustable elevator or not? Small hatch. Extra work.
HDWE choice? Tom Morris. This one is easy.
Surface and finishing details. How far do you elect to take it? Boring, mild, excessive, or really knock um dead! Extra work.
Could be penalties for the latter. LL~
For those that scratch build scale or semi-scale models,
What have I left out?
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Robart,
Thank you for the move to Scale Models. I won't bet buried as quickly. LL~
Oh My Gosh!!
I got something on paper!
Tail feather plans.
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While a scratch built scale model airplane gets built and progresses or goes together, especially one that is designed by the builder, there are many changes that take place in the process. Changes from beginning to end.
I write notes to myself so I can keep track of the changes and tasks.
I'm curious if others do also?
The drawings are important as is the accuracy of part assembly. I cannot believe how many changes I've made to my drawings, which I actually started in 2004, till this day.
I just made a change this morning with the shape of the turtle deck.
If I elect to cut the wing in half for a small dihedral, many fuselage formers will have to be changed, plus the pieces that become the motor mount sides and firewall.
It never ends.
I use different colors in my drawings, makes it a bit easier to keep track of what's going on.
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Spent an hour or so on my little sweetheart's tail feathers, you would be surprised as to what you can accomplish when you glue paper to balsa.
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All Builds get off to a slow start, drawings, flat cut tail feathers, but I promise the Build will get more interesting.
Faux ribs on all tail feathers.
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Spent some time this evening fine tuning my plans.
Turtle deck change, to a more scale outline, required the change of a half dozen fuselage formers.
Might just be able to print these plans tomorrow.
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I am getting so close to printing out my fuselage formers and close to cutting them.
Scale, what a drag, I wish the formers were a tad simpler.
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Here's most of the fuselage parts "nested" for printing.
Be different if arranged for laser cutting. I'll glue this stuff to balsa or ply and do the cutting by hand. Finish the edges with a sanding.
Goes quickly because it's fun, I'll do a second sheet for the other parts.
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I printed my TEXACO 13 parts this morning.
Probably print the plans over the weekend.
Thought some color might spark interest.
The TEXACO 13 is a great aircraft to model with an interesting history.
My excitement won't go away. I'm looking forward to paint!
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I bit the bullet so to speak and redid the aft fuselage formers as per drawings in the Travel Air book.
Photos of the aircraft seem to back up these cross section drawings.
Sorry about the photos, I use my phone instead of my Nikon. Saves me steps.
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Hey Charles.....Merry Xmas and happy New Year to you and yours. Fascinating as always. So what is the wingspan on this beauty and what are you thinking of powering her with?
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Hey Charles.....Merry Xmas and happy New Year to you and yours. Fascinating as always. So what is the wingspan on this beauty and what are you thinking of powering her with?
Glenn,
Thank you and same to you.
2019 will be a great year to build and contribute to the Stunt Hanger Forum.
The wingspan is only 52". I'm using a modified Smoothie ARF wing.
I'm giving power some thought, I'm even considering IC. A vintage racer deserves the smoke and noise.
Scale models, as complicated as they can be with construction and detailing, it's never to early to examine needed HDWE and to address your stash of contest grade balsa for the upcoming project.
Glenn, thanks for the reply!
Charles
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https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/forum-connection-problems/
I know you don't pay attention to such things, but Bob is having problems with the site and has been working on it for several days, and posted on the main forum about it. Check out the link above. Maybe you ought to cut back on meaningless photos and help out with the situation, and at least quit loading photos until he gives the all clear.
just sayin',
Dan McEntee
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Charles,
Great build thread, I sent you some photos I took of diecast Texaco's that were on a wall near a job site I went to last year. There are several Texaco's with different paint trims.
Best, DennisT
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Charles,
Great build thread, I sent you some photos I took of diecast Texaco's that were on a wall near a job site I went to last year. There are several Texaco's with different paint trims.
Best, DennisT
Dennis,
I've been really busy and haven't checked that email. I have 6 emails.
I'll look today.
Charles
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Dennis,
I've been really busy and haven't checked that email. I have 6 emails.
I'll look today.
Charles
Here's the photos taken by Dennis.
Great collection! My guess is they are glued to the wall?
Thanks again Dennis.
Charles
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I printed my TEXACO 13 parts this morning.
Probably print the plans over the weekend.
Thought some color might spark interest.
The TEXACO 13 is a great aircraft to model with an interesting history.
My excitement won't go away. I'm looking forward to paint!
The picture with the inverted Triplane in back is at the Kalamazoo Air Zoo in Michigan.
The model should fly well & be a chore to paint.
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The picture with the inverted Triplane in back is at the Kalamazoo Air Zoo in Michigan.
The model should fly well & be a chore to paint.
Paul,
Thanks for the reply and looking in.
That Museum is incredible. They have the TEXACO 13 replica?
By "chore," do you mean time consuming or difficult?
Charles
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Yeah, Kalamazoo. In addition to two buildings, they have a CL circle in between.
The Triplane and Buzz Bomb are replicas, but the Futureliner is GENUINE. One of only few still in exisitance, most likely Number 10 on loan from Auburn Indiana.
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Charlie, here are some pics of the late Jack Sheeks "Mistery Ship". He competed with it at the Nats and was on the U S Scale team with it.
Shirley, his wife gave it to me to restore. It's slow going but I hope to have it done by summer with hope's of getting it into the AMA museum.
Enjoy.
Blessings
Allen
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2
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Allen,
Could you start a thread about this restoration? I'm interested in the model. Jack was a prolific builder and great flyer. Would love to see his flying competition model coming back to it's original condition. As a seasoned US Team member flown flying model it is an important part of CL Scale. Thanks for your efforts, I'm glad you accepted Shirley's request to restore it.
Chris...
Charlie, here are some pics of the late Jack Sheeks "Mistery Ship". He competed with it at the Nats and was on the U S Scale team with it.
Shirley, his wife gave it to me to restore. It's slow going but I hope to have it done by summer with hope's of getting it into the AMA museum.
Enjoy.
Blessings
Allen
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I completed the gear drawing and printed it out. I don't have a printer.
So let me define "printed." I have a vinyl cutter that follows a vector line. It has a blade installed so the machine can cut vinyl.
I remove the blade and install a pen that's designed for my machine. Instead of vinyl I install paper. The results are extremely accurate. I've been doing drawings this way for a long time.
Here's the TEXACO 13 landing gear. Now all I have to do is build both the left and right. Do I see springs there?
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Time to bend gear wire.
I don't mind bending wire but this time and this particular gear offers challenges.
Good thing wire is inexpensive.
These rear pieces are completed, well almost. There's another couple of tasks needed on them. 3 more pieces per side and some soldering. I'm not looking forward to it.
Ran out of .125" wire also.
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This is a smoothie wing I'm working with. All I changed was the wing tip outline.
Do I or don't I cut out ailerons? Better look for scale.
Anyway, here's the progress with the landing gear blocks.
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Test line-up for my spring gear. I can't believe I'll be cutting this wing in half for the dihedral.
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Photos to show progress.
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What size wire is that?
Craig
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Craig,
.125" or commonly known as 1/8".
I don't think you'll need gear like this because you're building your Travel Air for stunt
I expect to do many touch n go's even on grass. Only reason I did this.
And because I can. ;D
Charles
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More progress.
I had these teardrop fiberglass wheel pants for years intended for another model. A Sterling PT-17 actually. Good thing I kept the wheel pants.
As you can see, the shape has been changed dramatically. A bit of heat and removal of material.
Took a bit of time, but not as long if they were made of balsa. They have to come apart for tire replacement, if needed.
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I'm going to still drop in some photos from time to time and continue with the Thread.
A bit more on wheel pants. These were actually a teardrop shape. Heat and trimming did the trick.
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Silking the balsa flange.
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Did a wrap with the silk over onto the fiberglass.
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I might just continue with this TEXACO 13 model.
I do have much of the model completed. Fuselage is the easy part.
I'll decide.
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Well, I'm back on the TEXACO 13 build. ;D
I opened the plan file and fine tuned the plans. I should be printing the finished plans by mid week and if lucky, I'll be cutting wood.
I'm excited.
CB
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looking good! great choyce of plane! i am signed here to follow up
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looking good! great choyce of plane! i am signed here to follow up
Fred,
What a guy!
If your interested in the model, I'll be glad to send you a set of plans with the drawings of the parts, for no charge. I'll also pay the shipping.
Let me know.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
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Fred,
What a guy!
If your interested in the model, I'll be glad to send you a set of plans with the drawings of the parts, for no charge. I'll also pay the shipping.
Let me know.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
thanks a lot for the VERY kind offer Charles! right now i have too much on my plate ( smith miniplane to be corrected, Aeronca for 2022 season and a striking project for 23/24 this one will take a lot of effort, but may worth it)
please keep posting the progress! looks great!
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Not many pieces so far. Designed for electric so you don't need as much strength in wood thickness or choice. More parts to cut.
The paper will peel off if not, a tad of heat will do the trick.
Charles.
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More formers.
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Two layers of silk and Deft Wood Lacquer Sealer slopped on, finger rub, and the wing halves are good to go.
Dried with my heat gun. Minutes.
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progressing fast, lovely plane Charles!
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progressing fast, lovely plane Charles!
Fred,
Thank you. I'm currently working on the bell crank mount.
I'm deciding if I should have a removable wing, R/C style??
Charles
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Poor quality cowling photos from plans.
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I try to use masking tape or elastic bands before gluing parts. Just to be sure.
I'm thinking 1 degree incidence for the wing and 1 degree fuselage offset.
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Bell cranks! Why does there have to be bell cranks.
I really hate installing these things, especially when the height is just about the same as the horn.
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Bell cranks! Why does there have to be bell cranks.
I really hate installing these things, especially when the height is just about the same as the horn.
To crank the bells. What other reason could there be? ???
Ken
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I'll be in Florida for six days so progress will stop on the TEXACO 13. Bummer! ;D
However, I have managed to align and glue the fuselage in place. I did a stab opening for later after some sheeting is applied. Elevator horn worked out for me after all thanks to Perry's photo.
Lots of work building scale models from scratch.
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No motor mount in the above photos. I just epoxied the motor mount this morning.
Photo at 11.00.
Charles
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No motor mount in the above photos. I just epoxied the motor mount this morning.
Photo at 11.00.
Charles
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Scale isn't quick.
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I put the bell crank in place permanently. It's not really neat, so no photo. ;D
On a more colorful note, it's time to consider graphics. Callie? Yes, I'm kidding. LL~
Not much on line at the resolution I need to make me happy. Stickers are available but not in the size I need.
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Gotta be careful not to damage anything. Just another thing to fix.
I hate lead outs not hidden in the wing.
Charles
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Nice work Charles.👍
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Nice work Charles.👍
Thank you.
You do nice work also.
I hope I put the bell crank in there before I sheeted? n~
Former lineup. As long as I'm within a half inch.
I hate doing tail wheels. I always wonder if they are strong enough.
Charles
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What will you power this with?
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What will you power this with?
Kevin,
It'll be electric although it's built where it could be IC also.
I was going to go Badass, 3520 790, I believe the numbers are.
But still looking.
Charles
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Kevin,
It'll be electric although it's built where it could be IC also.
I was going to go Badass, 3520 790, I believe the numbers are.
But still looking.
Charles
Charles, that is a lot of motor for that small a plane but you probably need the weight. I think the 35xx series has three maybe 4 sizes. you might want to wait and get the one that is the right length unless you have already measured. A bunch of us here are using the smaller 3515-710.
Glad to see you building again - Ken
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Charles, that is a lot of motor for that small a plane but you probably need the weight. I think the 35xx series has three maybe 4 sizes. you might want to wait and get the one that is the right length unless you have already measured. A bunch of us here are using the smaller 3515-710.
Glad to see you building again - Ken
Ken,
Thank you for your thoughts and for sharing information. It's appreciated.
Here's the thing as you noticed, short nose moment, and a 7" diameter round cowling. I'd like to turn a 13" prop so the model appears to be more scale. I'm told the 3520 will do this with no issues. Fits nicely also because it's offered with a extra long shaft. I'll need an extension for the prop thrust line.
It is a scale model but it has a stunt Smoothie wing. So it won't be just flying level.
7" cowling or not, limited space for the onboard stuff. A 2200 pack will fit vertical behind the firewall which will work well with the 3520.
The Badass stuff is badass expensive. This is why I'm looking and considering advice.
Thanks again.
Charles
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Ken,
Thank you for your thoughts and for sharing information. It's appreciated.
Here's the thing as you noticed, short nose moment, and a 7" diameter round cowling. I'd like to turn a 13" prop so the model appears to be more scale. I'm told the 3520 will do this with no issues. Fits nicely also because it's offered with a extra long shaft. I'll need an extension for the prop thrust line.
It is a scale model but it has a stunt Smoothie wing. So it won't be just flying level.
7" cowling or not, limited space for the onboard stuff. A 2200 pack will fit vertical behind the firewall which will work well with the 3520.
The Badass stuff is badass expensive. This is why I'm looking and considering advice.
Thanks again.
Charles
Only thing cheaper that I would use is a 3520 Cobra. Not that much though. They have prop charts that include lots of 13-15" props so you should be fine. If you are not going to compete with it in PA which is probably beyond the planes capability anyway, save money on the timer. A Hubin would work fine.
Ken
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Only thing cheaper that I would use is a 3520 Cobra. Not that much though. They have prop charts that include lots of 13-15" props so you should be fine. If you are not going to compete with it in PA which is probably beyond the planes capability anyway, save money on the timer. A Hubin would work fine.
Ken
Ken,
This motor was suggested by Mark. Priced nicely.
https://www.altitudehobbies.com/collections/35mm-series/products/leopard-3542-7t-780kv-brushless-airplane-motor
This suggestion by Mark also.
https://www.cobramotorsusa.com/motors-2826-12.html
I still need a bolt on shaft of extra length.
Badass offers one so I have to check the measurements yo see if it will bolt onto either of these. * bucks for the longer shaft.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
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Ken,
This motor was suggested by Mark. Priced nicely.
https://www.altitudehobbies.com/collections/35mm-series/products/leopard-3542-7t-780kv-brushless-airplane-motor
This suggestion by Mark also.
https://www.cobramotorsusa.com/motors-2826-12.html
I still need a bolt on shaft of extra length.
Badass offers one so I have to check the measurements yo see if it will bolt onto either of these. * bucks for the longer shaft.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
I had a Cobra 2826/12. Powerful and it's longer which may be of benefit.
Ken
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I had a Cobra 2826/12. Powerful and it's longer which may be of benefit.
Ken
Ken, I'm out of town currently visiting my wife's friends without my PC and photos. No photos tonight.
When I get back, I'll take a few photos of the cowling so you can see the issue I'm facing. I have to put a fake radial in the cowling or the model will look horrid. The reason I need a longer shaft.
Thanks for the reply. I'll check that Cobra out.
Charles
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Ken,
Here's the cowling, 7" in diameter.
As you can see, the front is recessed. All of that front recess get's removed and allows for a great looking fake radial. ;D
I do need a longer prop shaft so the motor is as far behind the opening as possible to allow for the fake radial.
That recess is .25" then add another .25" for the prop thrust line forward of that, factor in the prop thickness, washer and a decent amount of threads holding everything together.
Yikes! So, the longer the better and I prefer a bolt on.
Charles
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Charles, will you be using Masks, or stencils on this plane? Or will you go the vinyl sticker route?
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Charles, will you be using Masks, or stencils on this plane? Or will you go the vinyl sticker route?
Kevin,
We both know the short cut is applying vinyl then the final coat of clear.
The graphics are a bit of a way off but to think about finishing, while the build is taking place, is a good thing.
If I use masks/tape and painted everything, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. You would have to get really really close.
Now here's another thing. The model could be finished and cleared then the vinyl graphics could be applied.
Best why if you take making repairs down the road. I expect to fly this one.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
Nice Tsunami!!
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Charles I'm glad to see you going full bore on another plane. Especially interested in the finishing part. Doing Scale or semi scale models really adds to the work that needs to be done. Glad your going to fly it too! Myself, if i wanted a model that i dont fly i would go back to building the plastic ones! 😁
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Kevin,
We both know the short cut is applying vinyl then the final coat of clear.
The graphics are a bit of a way off but to think about finishing, while the build is taking place, is a good thing.
If I use masks/tape and painted everything, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. You would have to get really really close.
Now here's another thing. The model could be finished and cleared then the vinyl graphics could be applied.
Best why if you take making repairs down the road. I expect to fly this one.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
Nice Tsunami!!
Charles - If you are going to fly this one, do yourself a favor and take it for a spin as soon as it is airworthy. I hate it when I have to dig out the #11 on a finished plane! The biggest one for me is to make sure the thrust line is right. It really sucks when you have to move the spinner after blending it in. You don't have that problem but, no oil = no problems with flying it first, then finishing.
Ken
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Charles - If you are going to fly this one, do yourself a favor and take it for a spin as soon as it is airworthy. I hate it when I have to dig out the #11 on a finished plane! The biggest one for me is to make sure the thrust line is right. It really sucks when you have to move the spinner after blending it in. You don't have that problem but, no oil = no problems with flying it first, then finishing.
Ken
Ken,
Yes, no finish on this model until it flies. The finish can come well after.
I have the CG and plenty of elevator movement which is adjustable, so it should fly well, plus a Smoothie wing. Weight? I have to get a battery for the scale I have. Then I can weigh things.
I believe I put the cowling photo up. I'm still looking at sizes and performances for a motor.
The Badass 3520 is the only one so far which has a long prop shaft available.
I'm going to take a look at the hole pattern to see if it fits other motors which are less expensive.
Ken, as always, thanks for the reply.
Charles
P.S. Photos tomorrow, interesting ones.
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Charles I'm glad to see you going full bore on another plane. Especially interested in the finishing part. Doing Scale or semi scale models really adds to the work that needs to be done. Glad your going to fly it too! Myself, if i wanted a model that i dont fly i would go back to building the plastic ones! 😁
Kevin,
Understandable.
I have a long history of building models and selling them. Way back, I did have an interest in flying and flew a great deal, but not so much now. 35 degrees today.
There are some CL guys near me and they did reach out. Maybe I'll hear from them again? But I know someone who is in contact with them.
Yes, I'm trying to move fast on the TEXACO 13. If anyone has preowned equipment I could use in great shape, let me know.
Thanks for the reply.
Charles
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I had no choice but to stop the build to make the instrument panel and "limited" cockpit detail.
Sheeting is next. if I add more detail to the cockpit it can be done after the sheeting of the cockpit side area.
Scale building is a killer.
Charles
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Patterns for all sheeting, just to be sure.
No need to make a mistake using contest grade balsa.
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More progress.
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What did you attach the paper to the parts with?
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More progress.
You need a bowlegged pilot figure!
Ken
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What did you attach the paper to the parts with?
Kevin,
Thanks for the reply.
That's construction paper from any CVS. After you fiddle with the cardboard to your liking, simply place i on the balsa and draw the outline.
With many parts, it's easier to use contact adhesive with paper. Tracing many thin paper pieces is a challenge.
t
The cardboard is a bit thicker and has body.
Charles
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You need a bowlegged pilot figure!
Ken
Ken,
It's amazing how tight a fit it is for the pilot on the actual aircraft.
No viewing room either.
Charles
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Apparently he had a seat that went up and down so he could taxi.
Craig
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Apparently he had a seat that went up and down so he could taxi.
Craig
Craig,
I never read this anywhere? Where did you come by this information.?
Sounds reasonable. However, I know of no tail draggers which had a seat that elevates.
I learned to fly in a tail dragger and it was an issue, but you get used to it.
Warbirds?
Charles
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I'm just throwing photos out there in no real order. See what sticks.
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A few more photos.
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Apparently he had a seat that went up and down so he could taxi.
Craig
Craig,
I'm not sure about that. I looked at a few photos I have, plus a great book with a few photos of the pilot on board.
The pilot's head just about hits the canopy, which BTW, slides forward.
Charles
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http://aviadejavu.ru/Site/Crafts/Craft32757.htm
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The same website has a great view of the dash as well.
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The same website has a great view of the dash as well.
Craig,
What a guy!
I never knew about this website. however, I do have most of the photos in a file, including the instrument panel.
Thanks again.
Charles
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Tail wheel stuff and bottom sheeting completed. The entire model is sheeted.
Bent the tail wheel wire twice because I wasn't excited with the first.
Charles
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looking goo Charles! great model subject, will be a pleasant sight!
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looking goo Charles! great model subject, will be a pleasant sight!
Fred,
Thank you.
I'll get some recent photos up on Saturday.
Charles
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mucho progreso amigos!
"Brick by brick my citizens, brick by brick. William Shakespeare
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I made a decision on which motor to use on the TEXACO 13.
I purchased the Badass 3520 and an extra long prop adapter plus a 13" prop.
I need these things to set the cowling. I hope these photos aren't small.
Charles
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A bit more progress.
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Spent some enjoyable time on the TEXACO 13. Tweaked the glass wheel pants, (Epoxy mix,) plus cut and removed the cowling front opening.
Handled the Badass 3520-790 to get comfortable with it for what lies ahead, mounting. I have the "extended" shaft and have to fit the motor perfectly from motor mount to prop thrust line.
Charles
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Can't beat a Badass.
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This dummy radial currently has some paint on it. I have two more hours in it, I said the max would be 4 hours not counting what it took to get to this point.
I'm going to try to get this thing done by the end of the day. Possibly
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Well, I didn't get this thing completed in one day because I've been really busy. In fact, I didn't even try.
I have just about 6 hours of my time in this project, from box to what you see. AND, I could take it to another level of detail.
I just might. Here's the before and after.
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These pieces end the assembly stage of the TEXACO 13. Nothing left to make except the three piece canopy. That I can do well after the model is silked.
I'll be preparing the wood for the silk covering.
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I don't believe I've put this photo up.
Hollowed nose block but made in 8 pieces. 8 pieces glued together with CA then shaped to fit the fuselage. "Spot" Epoxied to the fuselage for removal so the shaped piece can be hollowed. Doesn't take a good deal of heat to separate pieces held together with Epoxy.
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Time for the body putty. Wood has two coats of clear dope, one thinned and one a bit thicker. Putty looks thick because it's really opaque.
95% of the putty will be be removed with sanding. Probably Deft Wood Lacquer from here. Probably only two coats will be needed. I'll force dry the first coat with heat so I can apply the second immediately. Clean the brush once.
Silk is coming.
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Had to charge the battery.
Wing bottom.
Maybe I'll get a photo after this stuff is sanded. Quite a bit gets removed. Great stuff for this purpose. But, I'm sure there's other products.
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Another area.
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Almost forgot these things.
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Its a small thing, but FWIW I would have run the grain this way.
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Its a small thing, but FWIW I would have run the grain this way.
You're 100% correct. I'll take notice for applications in the future. The piece will be silked, which will add strength, OR, do I add a 1/16" strip of hard balsa to the end?
Charles
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Almost forgot these things.
Hi Charles,
A suggestion:
Instead of using balsa, use a piece of 1/64" ply. You can feather the edge to almost a knife edge without much risk of something splitting. Then build up the fillet with whatever you use for the entire fillet between the wing and fuselage. The fillet material will give the gussets rigidity.
Keith
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Hi Charles,
A suggestion:
Instead of using balsa, use a piece of 1/64" ply. You can feather the edge to almost a knife edge without much risk of something splitting. Then build up the fillet with whatever you use for the entire fillet between the wing and fuselage. The fillet material will give the gussets rigidity.
Keith
Keith, Pat
What a pleasure reading your Posts.
Yes, the ply is a better way also. I should know better, but no one knows everything. Your suggestion is appreciated and yes, I obviously made a mistake which was brought to my attention in a kind way. Thankyou.
I opt to simply place this hard balsa strip on the end. Certainly a band-aid and incorrect by many standards, as it should be.
I didn't feel like removing the piece, but this has been a good lesson and I'll do better next time.
Thank you both.
Charles
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Hi Charles,
A suggestion:
Instead of using balsa, use a piece of 1/64" ply. You can feather the edge to almost a knife edge without much risk of something splitting. Then build up the fillet with whatever you use for the entire fillet between the wing and fuselage. The fillet material will give the gussets rigidity.
The gusset behind what will be the flap trailing edge started out as a piece of 1/64" ply as explained above. The gray shown is the blocking coat before the white gets sprayed on. The red trim will be masked first.
Keith
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Keith,
Thanks for the photo.
Clean, neat and really nice.
Charles
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I iron my silk.
I'll have to go to the GBR-3 build and review the application of applying silk dry with CA. I haven't done this in years.
Charles
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Starting to cover the TEXACO 13.
I'm wondering how common it is for scale modelers to design and scratch build instead of building a kit?
BTW, While cleaning out file cabinets, I found the invoice for the fiberglass cowling. I paid 37.00 plus 8.00 shipping, and this was some years ago.
So, anyone thinking about building the TEXACO 13, let me know and I'll give you the information. Also remember, I used a modified Smoothie wing.
I'm guessing Smoothie wing kits may possibly be available? Rib set for sure?
Charles
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TEXACO 13 build!! Gripping, to say the lease.
Adjustable rudder, simple install.
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The vertical stab and rudder was tricky. Took ten minutes and was a bit difficult holding the model in place and all. But I got through it.
Silk applied dry with CA, ready for dope in 10 minutes. Still not bad. Now the other side.
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The other side. Oops! A wrinkle I couldn't live with. Small ones are fine, livable they are.
Dope might have done the fix, but for the few minutes it'll take, I'll replace this open area.
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Bang! The fix. Using CA.
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A bit warmer today so I may be in the garage applying silk to the rest of the fuselage. I hope so.
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Second coat of Deft Wood Finish. Might need a third before primer. The Deft get's 220 before primer is applied.
Wings will get prepared for silking before any primer is applied. Deft is a usable product and can be speed dried immediately.
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It's not easy being me.
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Silked the 4 sides of the TEXACO 13's wing this morning. Just about 5 minutes per panel applying the silk dry using CA.
What's better than this? I'll be applying clear dope to the open bays after my brake :-)
Photos eventually.
I applied two coats of dope right out of the can. Speed dried the first. I have no patients.
Charles
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I have no patients.
Charles
Are you a doctor?
Keith
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Purchased a QT of clear from Sig. $46.14 with expedited shipping.
Well worth it.
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Purchased a QT of clear from Sig. $46.14 with expedited shipping.
Well worth it.
Sig clear arrived this afternoon. Wow! Two days and I have it.
Sig has never let me down yet.
Here's the TEXACO 13 with just two coats of clear, right out of the can. I'll bet I could apply primer without a third coat. Nah!
If there were more interest I'd go a "finishing build." But I have "finishing builds" all over the place. ;D
Charles
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Charles,
How are you going to do the lead out guide? What will it attach to on that wing that is already covered?
Keith
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wont need it if u dont fly it
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wont need it if u dont fly it
Dangling leadouts make uninteresting artifacts. They might be used for hanging the thing on a wall.
Keith
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Dangling leadouts make uninteresting artifacts. They might be used for hanging the thing on a wall.
Keith
Keith,
Build one and you won't feel so bad.
Smoothie wings are everywhere.
I have all the parts outline drawings plus drawings of the tall feathers. I have the receipt for the cowling so that's no issue.
There gear and pants? Well, you can come up with s better choice than mine, mine are heavy.
It would be a good project for you and for the others who help you with your models.
It's a bunch of work for one guy, especially the fuselage sheeting. Not to mention, pieces have to be made and cut as you move along with the project.
Thank you for you're interest.
Charles
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Check this out
https://youtu.be/ITT2jSdDB8U
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Check this out
https://youtu.be/ITT2jSdDB8U
This belongs in the "At the Handle" or "Judging" headings rather than being lost in this endless build thread that deserves little attention compared to the value of this video.
Xu was 5th at the World Championships.
The video shows numerous things other than it was a really nice flight. Good corners, good shapes, good sizes, pretty good intersections, pretty good bottoms. Shows the value of the placards which are the metric equivalent of 2 foot squares placed at 45 degree segments of the circle. They show the right sizes for the loops and eights. Shows how well the bottoms of the maneuvers are flown as well as how well level flight is done and on and on.
Could have used a better placement of the camera to align with the wind/where the pattern was flown. Still, this is a really good video.
Worthwhile to watch each of these videos.
Videos like this could be used to train judges to show basically how a good pattern should be flown while at the same time being able to point out the errors, however minor they may be. The placards are a bid help.
Keith