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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Scale Models => Topic started by: Allen Goff on January 24, 2014, 01:38:37 PM
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Maybe I can save someone a headache down the road. I used Testors flat clear spray (lacquer) on my airplane and it did not work to my satisfaction. On some of the inked panel lines it caused them to run. I did it the same as I have always done on many, many airplanes before with no problems (fogging a couple coats then a regular coat). What I think is the Testors product is a hotter clear. I have always used Brodak paint and DuPont 3608S lacquer thinner with no ill effects. So I have learned a lesson here, don't change what works for you.
Blessings
Allen
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Just FYI for those of us who use two-part auto clear, it's Nason for me, I also had this problem once. I now mist (or dust) on at least three coats with 5 minutes or more in between. For multiple coats of the death paint it needs to go tacky before the next coat, as I'm sure you all know, so I let the mist coat do the same before hitting it again.
Sorry for all your hard work needing to be done again, Pardner. :'( :'(
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That sucks...
Marcus
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I build guitars and I use Krylon clear as a fixative over delicate details, which will be subsequently clear coated with lacquer. Here's a hand painted example on a headstock. I think Krylon would work well to protect ink lines.
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Dennis, how do you think it will protect against 20% nitro?
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I have tried Krylon with fuel, 10%, and it doesn't even come close to being fuel proof. The best clear I have found is the death paint clear, and that is what I have used on my custom guitars for the past five years with no problems from any customers. I like it for the instruments because it meets the requirement of flexing with the wood expanding/shrinking. I like it better than nitro-cellulose lacquer because I don't have to wait 6 weeks before I sand and buff it! (That caused me no end of impatient clients waiting for their instruments!)
But...I still had that one time where I should have misted it on the ink lines before the first medium coat.
By the way Dennis, I love your Yosemite Sam! Had that one on my old Ruffy years ago - he's sort of a hero for me! Are you building mostly acoustic, or electric, or both?
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Good,
Do you send your guitars out for the clear coat or do you paint them in house yourself.
Charles
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Guys, I use Krylon crystal clear rattle can only as a fixative so additional clear coats of lacquer (or fuel proof paint) don't eat the art work or panel lines. I doubt that Krylon is fuel proof and Will has confirmed that. My "Sammy" guitar had 6 coats of lacquer before the artwork was done followed by another 6 coats of lacquer on top of the art work. I previously found that acrylic paint crinkles up when over sprayed without using Krylon for protection.
Will, I've built three acoustic guitar, a "Fibson" J-185 for myself, a "Martini" OM28V for my son, and a Dobro (Sammy) for myself. You can see & hear them at:
http://www.youtube.com/user/Kneelingpad/videos
Charles I paint my guitars myself in the garage during the summer using nitrocellulose rattle cans. Many coats are applied, then wet sanded flat before buffing the finish to a gloss. Yosemite Sam was painted for me by my daughter who is an artist. She informed me that it was the most difficult painting she has ever done and her detail work is absolutely beautiful.
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Whooaaa Dennis, that girl of yours is gifted!! Wow. (Looks like she might have gotten that from dad.)
You also have good taste in guitar designs. I love the jumbo tones, and am about ready to start soaking the sides for a cherry jumbo here in the shop. I don't have a contract for it, but came by the cherry at a super price so decided I should have a personal acoustic in the shop. I have a cedar top for it.
I went to the youtube site and enjoyed the tonal quality of those two instruments. Great playing also. Do you get your Nitro cans from Stewart MacDonald or LMI?
Charles, I spray in my shop. Lots of ventilation and exhaust fans plus my pesticide mask with carbon filters and an additional face mask. The only thing on my custom instruments that I don't do is the metal hardware and fretboards. I don't want to own the equipment to accurately saw fret slots when I can get great fretboards for 40 bucks.
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Will, I buy Behlin lacquer and vinyl sealer from Grizzly.com. The rattle cans work so good for me that I don't bother to use my spray equipment. I use ZPOXY finishing resin to fill the pores of the sides and back.
Yes, my daughter is a super talented artist with an exceptional eye for detail. I wish I could say she inherited her talent from me but that is not the case. She does miniature paintings with detail that is hard to believe. She also painted the Roses on my Gibson Jumbo.
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I often tend to forget about Grizzly, though I do buy most of my truss rids from them. I like Behlins if I'm going to use lacquer, and the Zpoxy is probably the best sealer around! Best part of building guitars is not needing to worry about the weight of the finish!! LL~ LL~ LL~
The shadowing on that rose is phenomenal!
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WOW!
Surrounded by talent. Wack-a-doo!! (means kudos.) ;D
Not sure rattle can lacquer would be fuel proof?
The thing is, all base colors have to stick to each other and not lift. Plus, this is in my case because I will finish the model in a two part auto clear coat, the clear cannot attack any base colors.
I will use all rattle cans on the FS. See how it turns out.
BTW. There's a auto two part clear that sets in 15 minutes.
In the case of those 12 coats of lacquer, not sure this is necessary any longer? Could be a long conversation about that.
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On the number of coats of Nitro-cellulose lacquer, it's all according to what you want as to depth of finish in appearance. I have stopped at 6 most of the time, but also have needed to go with as high as 9 to get what I wanted in a particular wood. Nitro really makes the grain "pop" out at you and the deeper the finish, the more "pop' you get. Of course, the viscosity of the mix has a lot to do with it as well. Thinner spray, more coats.
Too many coats can inhibit the resonant response and projection of an instrument, so you have to balance the finish with the sound desired.
There's nothing more rewarding than that first bass E note played on a successful acoustic!