stunthanger.com
Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Scale Models => Topic started by: builditright on October 21, 2006, 11:32:38 AM
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Rivets for scale modeling found thanks to Roger Vizoli & Dave Platt
Micro fasteners has them
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=TNM&SubCategory=RVL
(http://www.microfasteners.com/images/catalog/TNM-RVL.gif)
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Those would be way too big for simulating rivets at the scale of models we build for control line--usually 1/7th or smaller. The little one would correspond to 7/8 inch--about three times too big.
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shucks, just when I thought I had it licked.. :(
Chuck, got any any suggestions?
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The really small eyeglass screws will replicate 1/7th scale, or so, dzus fasteners. One must go much smaller than that for rivets.
I would suggest sharpening some proper sized tubing , and after primer application on the surfaces, turn the sharpened tubing into the primer a ways. This makes the flush "rivet look" nicely.
Brazier head rivets could be made from a glue droplet from a fine hypo, I've heard of it but never have tried it.
Chris...
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Walter, Could you give me a little more information. Are you actual fastening materials together? If so what is the material? Are the rives only simulated? What is the substrata ? Will the rivets be painted over?
I am just getting back into uc flying but I built scale models many years ago and recently I have been building scale model steam engines. I might be able to help.
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Walter,
Chris mentioned the methods I have used--impressions from tubing for flush rivets or glue drops for raised head. I would not bother with flush rivets on anything but an FAI model because they cannot be seen from the 15' judging distance. Even then to get the size correct you need tubing smaller than the brass tubing K&S sells. (I used syringe tubing to do them on my Henschel 129) Another method, besides spinning the tubing, is to attach the tubing to a 25 watt soldering iron and burn the impressions into the surface. A very delicate touch is needed on a glassed and primed balsa surface to avoid burning through. You can duplicate the slots in screws by attaching a small piece of flat brass to the iron and burning them in too. Glue drops, I use Titebond, can also be applied with a comb. I break out every other tooth first. Spread the glue on a thin piece of plastic like a coffee can lid then dip the comb in the glue and touch off on the model. Quick but sort of crude.
At the risk of being banned from the site I'll offer another suggestion. If you are serious about this scale stuff go to www.rcscalebuilder.com and see how the R/C guys do this kind of stuff.
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Chuck,
This is a bit outside the forum definition, but it is possible to burnish-in the outlines of flush rivets for stunt models. Same for panel lines... Either alternate layer masking, leaving a hairline of thickness as panel edge definition, or scribing into the many layers of clear dope (for a dope finish) to show a hint of the edges, works. At major meets, CLPA models are scrutineered closer than Scale models at most meets, major or minor, and they don't have the benefit of the 15' rule.
I think, that done well, such techniques could benefit suitable scale models. Almost subliminal, but with effect on judging for representation of the type ansd specific example presented...?
I've only done this once or twice on stunters, which had many other flaws for appearance judging, yet I feel it has potential for both CLPA Appearance judging, and the most popular Scale events.
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Lou,
I have never tried those techniques with the goals you have in mind. I suspect uniformity would be a goal for the stunt model, and I have had a terrible time getting uniform depth to my flush rivets. Any attempts I have made on scribing anything have been disasters. I have read "how to's" on scribing but those were for making molds and the substrate was very hard. I can't imagine me trying to do any of these techniques on a silkspan covered open framework wing ''
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Walter, Could you give me a little more information. Are you actual fastening materials together? If so what is the material? Are the rives only simulated? What is the substrata ? Will the rivets be painted over?
I am just getting back into uc flying but I built scale models many years ago and recently I have been building scale model steam engines. I might be able to help.
Hi Keith, I too am seriously thinking of building a sport scale model so yes I was looking for the rivets that are put on the model but I didnt know they werent to scale, maybe the suggestions that are being made might just work out better.
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Hi Keith, I too am seriously thinking of building a sport scale model so yes I was looking for the rivets that are put on the model but I didnt know they werent to scale, maybe the suggestions that are being made might just work out better.
Walter I will send you PM tomorrow evening as it is now 2:00 AM and I have to be up about 4 hours from now.
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Hi Walter,
Check out the rivet-making supplies at www.micro-mark.com and see if they'll do. Good luck.