stunthanger.com
Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Scale Models => Topic started by: Jim Roselle on October 21, 2015, 04:48:47 PM
-
Hello all,
I was just wondering what everyone's favorite pen is for inking detail lines?
Thank you,
Jim
-
Rapidograph
-
Hello all,
I was just wondering what everyone's favorite pen is for inking detail lines?
Thank you,
Jim
Jim,
I used Rapidograph pens in my work for years and I think it would work really great for making lines on models.
However, I choose this pen for my first introduction to applying lines on model airplanes.
Worked well for what the model is and they are cheap.
Here's a link to a Thread I started on doing lines on one of my model airplanes.
First one I ever did actually.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,36189.0.html
Good luck,
Charles
-
Thanks guys,
The Rapidograph is a little pricey for the level I'm at now. I did find a two pack of the one Charles used for 6.95 with free shipping on amazon.
Jim
-
Thanks guys,
The Rapidograph is a little pricey for the level I'm at now. I did find a two pack of the one Charles used for 6.95 with free shipping on amazon.
Jim
I'm at a low level also. And I'm staying there, intentionally. LL~
The price is exactly why I chose this pen. I also did a test and you can, by spray, apply auto clear over the dried ink.
I used black on the topside. Deliberately, I didn't close off some ends where lines come together.
I'd like to see your before and after.
Here's the topside of that P-40 model. Some of that black is vinyl.
Good luck!
Charles
-
Great info on the Identipens, Charles! Thanks! (these pens have 2 'points', one at each end; one wider and one 'thinner'.
Appreciate the research you did with the clear over, this saves time and energy. Nice looking Warhawk.
As someone great once said: "All airplanes are variants of Ringmasters." n~
-
Mike,
I just read your reply and thanks for the kudos and kind words.
Only thing I left out is this.
My guess although I'm not sure, IS, on the larger more valuable stunt ships, possibly a light clear coat may be applied "before" any line work is started.
This would provide a base that would protect the finish just in case a mistake was made in applying lines. And that's actually possible.
If not, one would have to take their time and be patient to do a really clean application with absolutely no errors or mistakes.
Some of the line work I see is extreamly involved and laid out to a tee. So, this could be a possibility?
Not sure though?
Maybe someone will comment on how they pull off these beautiful and involved "line jobs."
Or, possibly they are using some "magic pen" with ink where you can remove the line with a chemical that doesn't disturb the finish yet can be cleared without the line being attacked by the clear coat?
A mystery?
Charles
-
OK on putting ink lines after the clear coat. I tried that after spraying with 2-part automotive clear coat.
Nothing, but nothing would stick. India ink would not flow. Marker pens would sort of work, but the ink came right off on the first wipe-down. Also, couldn't get decals to stick either.
So, make sure all is really finished before using automotive clear!
I'm going back to butyrate clear coats!
Floyd
-
OK on putting ink lines after the clear coat. I tried that after spraying with 2-part automotive clear coat.
Nothing, but nothing would stick. India ink would not flow. Marker pens would sort of work, but the ink came right off on the first wipe-down. Also, couldn't get decals to stick either.
So, make sure all is really finished before using automotive clear!
I'm going back to butyrate clear coats!
Floyd
Floyd,
That light coat would be scratched up to bring the high gloss to matt.
Pen lines should work then.
Last coat of high gloss brings it back to high gloss.
It's done all the time this way, canopy and all. My guess is.
Charles
-
You don't spray on "high gloss." The only think I put on my models before the ink lines was a light rubbing of talc, and when finished, then the clear. After the clear had cured, then the sanding and polishing to get the "high gloss." Gloss doesn't come in a spray can. It must be applied with proper amounts of preparation and elbow grease.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
-
There are two kinds of "glossy". Automotive clear top coat gives a shine when sprayed correctly. Butyrate clear coats are not as shiny, but can be rubbed out. A rubbed shine is more appealing because it looks like a fine furniture shine, and the closer you look, the better it is.
The "one step" approach works without all the difficult rubbing and polishing. OK unless you're going for a 20-point result.
Floyd