I have a Gee Bee semi scale stunter,,
what are you after, its not really clear to me what you are looking for?

Several of us in the Cincinnati area tried to pormote Golden Age racing several years ago--both full body and profile. There were also some guys in Massachusetts that originated it. Had a couple contests in Huntersville, NC. I have a photo with over 20 models at a contest in Cincinnati. Used 40's with 11" props and torque was a problem. We used 36" wingspan. I built two Mew Gulls; one profile and one full body. The full body model used a ST 40 rear rotor set up to run in reverse to eliminate the torque problem (rolling in on the lines). My Mew Gulls, and most of the other models had the gear moved forward due to nosing over. I also have a Napier Heston built by Jim Moore who passed away three years ago. I don't recall anything special about CG. My Mew Gulls groove very nicely. The last time we flew them I provided three models at the Brodak event. Lots of fun for three old guys to fly at once. One of the Gee Bees built is on permanent display at the local Jr High--team name is Aviators.
Chuck

One thing you will run into with this model is that the vertical CG is going to be way above the wingtip, this will cause the model to fly with the wings tilted  all the time. IOW upright,the wings would be tilted outboard down, inverted outboard up ( very very bad scenario) SOME correction could be force upon the model with some static aileron input but thats not a perfect situation since that will vary with airspeed. The other option is to put a standoff on the wingtip, with the leadouts~bellcrank exiting from the fuse  somewhere midship vertically. This would allow the airframe to fly more correctly ..
I have read of some scale guys coupling the ailerons to deflect to input outboard roll under certain flight conditions,, as in slow flight.

Aviaojet
Charlie Bauer AMA District IV VP is the guy to talk to, I have seen his Gee Bee fly and the only issue was ground handling, but he said it was just like the real one. It was a large one like yours.
By the way the models Chuck is talking about were a handful to fly, a lot of fun though
John

Chris,

Sounds like all of the ideas that you got on RCU are the same ones given to you here on Stunthangar.

Yes, I do believe RCU CL guys are in this site.

Must be time to mount that bellcrank and make that leadout guide.

Yes, interesting observation. Nice to see there's interest and that you took a good look. Thank you.

Lock the tail wheel so that it doesn't turn in or out on you when taxiing.

The tail wheel is a skid, as was scale.

order a three line bellcrank and handle, I'd use the suspended bellcrank beneath a ply plate epoxied into the fuselage a little less than half way up, make sure it's locked in by structure so you can survive the hideously high load pull tests of C/L Scale.

I traded graphics for a couple of "hanging" belcranks. I'm waiting for them. I have a three line handle. 

If you use a gas engine, make sure that the carb is set up to run with cf pushing all of the fuel to outboard.

The model has been set up for an OS 80 2S. I don't have the ambition to make a change. Although a small gasser would be nice, no clean up with gas. $$$$ also.

If you haven't been flying C/L for a while, go find a trainer and practice about 100 flights doing loops and wing overs and stuff.

Cleaver and great advice. I have a ringmaster and a magician.

The graphics. I did go on line looking for their logo. All I could find was a bitmap jpeg with poor resolution. Not suitable for reproduction.

There are some graphics people with advantages. Like some or their parents own a hobby shop. This allows easy access to Brand logos and art.

I will say this, for what I specialize in, which is custom scale graphics, I offer great stuff. I see many errors and work that could be better. Many have copied my work. I know of one graphics guy who actually purchased my Mr. Mulligan set. I'm honored to be ripped off. I thimnk?

Charlie Bauer AMA District IV VP is the guy to talk to, I have seen his Gee Bee fly.

What Gee Bee does he have? Size? Mine is only 55" in span.

Charles

Dec '79 AMA published plan #282, Granger Williams 2" scale Gee Bee Z.
I bought blue print plans from Vern Clemons and built one in 1981.
Two firsts and one second in static shows.  Or was it 2 seconds and 1 first?
Never flew it.  Remnants till exist.  So do a couple of crummy pics.

Correction:  Plans source is Vern Clements.  His drawings were used
in the process of building the Delmar Benjamen Gee Bee R-2.

         Dave

Vern Clements X2!!! I found Vern in a copy of Model Airplane News in 1962. (Vern's Gee Bee R1 (2"=1ft. scale) had won the 1961 Scale Nats. I had built a couple of Gee Bees from old plans, but they had terminal balance issues, being so close-coupled and FAST! (by the time I discovered there was a problem, they were nose-deep in the grass) These early ones were smaller, wingspans of 18"-24"...disaster waiting to happen.
I called Vern on the telephone, in Caldwell. He was very helpful, sent me the plan, and told me to call back with any questions.
The plane built beautifully, I powered it with a Veco .45. Flew it at Del Mar High school in '76, it took off from the grass, turned in at full throttle, and came right over my head as I ducked...It went in nose first, absolute wreck. Pictures were to be taken that day...Drat!
I have since built a profile, Super Tigre .35 powered, using a Sterling Mr. Mulligan wing, with the correct 'Y' airfoil. (!)
I plan on doing another Clements Gee Bee R1, only this time using one of our resident artisans for laser cutting.
The 'Z' looks to be more stable with its layout, but there's nothing like an R-1.

Don,

GREAT ART!

You are an incredable talent!

That Gee Bee? Was it CL? Did you see it fly?

Thanks for both photos. Got others of your work?

Charles

Schultzie, you are priceless.

Anyone have Gee Bee's or Golden Era Racers on wires? Can be profile.

My interest is troublshooting, balance, takeoffs. the usual.

Charles

Morn. Charles!!!
Found this available at the Seattle Museum of Flight gift shop...All you would have to do is add a  good bellcrank, strong set of lines...and a enough engine power ta pull it?
Hummm?
GUESS IT MIGHT BE A TAD MORE DIFFICULT TO GET BY THE BOM RULE?

Morn. Charles!!!
Found this available at the Seattle Museum of Flight gift shop...All you would have to do is add a  good bellcrank, strong set of lines...and a enough engine power ta pull it?
Hummm?
GUESS IT MIGHT BE A TAD MORE DIFFICULT TO GET BY THE BOM RULE?

So fly it in Fun Scale  Their is no BOM rule.      

I have flown the Howard Pete and a friends Gee Bee and both of them required the throttle to be applied slowly on takeoff roll with full up elevator to keep the nose from pitching over. Once the model had enough ground speed the elevator would go to nueutral and the tail would rise and take off normally. 

But If I held nuetral elevator and applied the power too quickly the tail would come up and then nose over.

From what I have read - Just like the real one.

From the AVweb site...
another Beautiful Gee Bee shot!

And a Calender Shot for Jan