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Speed,Combat,Scale,Racing => Scale Models => Topic started by: Fred Cronenwett on December 19, 2015, 12:17:32 PM
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Here is a video that shows how I set up flaps with End point adjustment and a device called the SERVO SPEED REDUCER from Dave's RC electronics. You don't want the flaps to snap down into position because of the trim change that is required. The nose will pitch up when you drop the flaps. Nice simple device that slows down the flaps when using the 2.4 Ghz systems.
Fred
http://www.davesrce.com/#!products/vstc1=servo-devices/productsstackergalleryv21=4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFm2AZtn23k
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Thanks Fred for sharing this information. Could this device be used in the place of the high current arming switch that I use to make the connection between my main battery and the ESC on my electric carrier planes?
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I don't think so, this device only slows down the rotation speed of the servo to a more reasonable reate which is especially helpful when you drop flaps
Fred
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Wow Fred! Thanks for producing that video. H^^
It just so happens I have this scale project on the board with flaps.
I know exactly of what you speak as to pitch trim when flaps are lowered.
You make no mention as to the "fix." Is the "trim" done at the handle by applying down movement?
Be nice if a second servo or some method could add down trim without the use of the handle when the flaps are lowered?
This would have to happen with the elevator.
Have you done any work is this area?
Also, I like the slowing down of the flap movement. I would like my model to have three areas of flap movement in percentages, as per actual aircraft. As the one I'm modeling.
I know nothing about the 2.4 TX's. Can they be set up to operate flaps in three stages of lowering?
Fred, you do good work and offer assistance.
I appreciate your efforts.
And thanks for that material. I have ordered some and will give it a try.
Charles
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When I fly my RV-4 with flaps the nose will pitch up when the flaps are dropped and I can keep the airplane flying level by applying down elevator, the nice part about the servo speed reducer is that is happens slowly over a 4-6 second time frame. You have at least a 1/2 lap to correct nose pitching up because it does not happen quickly.
The AMA rules say that the elevator can not be controlled with the electronics so it has to be mechanical and when the flaps drop over a 1/2 lap or more your hand can slowly feed in down trim to keep it level.
I use the 3 position toggle switch on the 2.4 Ghz Transmitter, one position is up, the middle position is the 1/2 way down or takeoff position and the last position is full down for landing. Look for a 2.4 Ghz system that has toggle switches with 3 positions or use the elevator stick with the spring removed to lower the flaps to any position you want.
The Tactic 850 transmitter has sliders, 2 position and 3 position toggle switches.
Use the Sub-trim on the transmitter to control the location of the middle position and end point adjustment to control the up and landing position of the flaps. I need to get a video done to show how that works.
end point and servo reversing are the two main features that I use when setting up a model
Fred
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Fred,
Thanks for the quick reply and the information.
I will need it.
The TX you have in your video, is that the Tactic 850?
You do good work Fred. H^^
Charles
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the transmitter in the video is the Tactic 650 but if you can swing it I would get the Tactic 850, it has 8 channels which means you can drive up to 4 channels with toggle or sliders.
The toggle switches and other aux functions are better
Fred
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Thanks Fred for sharing this information. Could this device be used in the place of the high current arming switch that I use to make the connection between my main battery and the ESC on my electric carrier planes?
Hey Eric:
If you're using the arming switch for safety's sake, no. The arming switch provides a positive "off" to the whole electrical system by disconnecting the battery, so that any glitches in the system won't make the motor come on unexpectedly. You can only do that if absolutely everything is completely and totally off -- and the only way to make sure of that is a switch that disconnects the whole shebang.