I am running the 35S in a classic airplane at present.  It can act like yours at times but getting the right plug (listen to what Denny Adamisin has to say above-they ran them for years) and maybe trying a little lower oil content but not below 22-23% should help. (mostly or entirely castor)  One thing-it sounds like you are trying to run the old school long stroke engine sort of like a schnerle screamer.  You will burn it up that way in short order.  Run a 10-5 or 10-6 prop and cut that launch RPM down to a slower 2-4 break and go from there. 

Dave

Hobby lobby also has a great selection of wide soft bristle paint brushes to use for pretreating wood with clear.

Anyone have any experience airbrushing acrylic over monokote?

This would be for an electric so not too worried about fuel resistances.

TIA

I belive it can be sprayed and will hold as most of the paints i have tried, but i doubt it will stay there due to monokote expansion rate x stiffnes of the acrylic paint.
i would shot a 2 part clear over or use 2 part paint instead

A soft pencil , like a HB ( not to sharp ) or is it 2H , or a felt marker - should wash off . later . maybe ! .

So getting a dead aft ' neutral / center line , line / mark - 1/4 or so long REFERANCE . then hang from a leadout . CAREFULLY . they hurt your foot if you play Tarzan & the nail pulls out . ( oops ) Just as well the foot was under it .

SOME , just hanging , the FLAP ( & elevator ) is just ' so far ' . a bit of weight on it to get FULL DISPLACEMENT of control surface . What with paint , newness , angles & oiling hinge pins // etc .

a dot at the flap T.e. , in line withit . A offcut of 1/16 six in long , to bridge a gap , if needed . So its ALIGNED EXACTLY . the dot . AND the other one . THEN ' are the Two Dots equispaced from your  megaacurate C/L line .

Some of mine want the flaps & elevators grasping , after storage , and leaning onem Full deflection ( or more ) to FREE OFF for full movement . THEN carefull glareng at surfaces to see theyre exactly alinged side to side .


The TEST is to see IF it sits at Equal Deflection , with just ts own weight . Dosnt hurt to glare at fuse to see if its just outside level , too . However , whacking / leaning onit , SHOULD get exactly equal deflection .
Till you decide otherwise . as in if it NEEDS ' pre set ' to equal the turns . Just to try'n de muddify the waters . On that .  Pretty Basic first principle set up .

But Neg Stabs useless . A iota + usually benificial , with the stab. up from the wing centerline . Im starting to think unequal all hights , gets a ' pre load ' that steadies & halts ' hop ' / bounce , as in it ' locks ' outa squares etc better , not so easilly deflected either . but traks as youd want it . Hopefully . We shall see . Engine & wing centerlines , anyhow . So it follows aft too . But I dont usually have 25 % tailplanes .
so almost irrelevant waffle . Or regurgetation .

Even 1/8" tomato crate wood...it's only 1/2A. A reasonable Cox facsimile could be done.