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  • May 03, 2024, 01:43:02 AM

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71
Open Forum / National Balsa sale on fiberglass
« Last post by Dennis Toth on April 29, 2024, 07:05:38 PM »
I just saw a National Balsa (https://www.nationalbalsa.com/) that offered 20% discount on several weights of fiberglass cloth.

20% off Fiberglass Cloth!! Available in .56, .73 & 1 OZ!

MUST use code FIBERGLASS20 at checkout for discount to be applied!

Best,    DennisT
72
1/2 A building. / Re: Nylon furewall for Cox .049
« Last post by 944_Jim on April 29, 2024, 06:41:32 PM »
Mr. Dave,

I know you want plastic, but this is cheap! License plates from the past.

73
Open Forum / Re: Fox 36X ABC piston/liner/rod/pin sets
« Last post by Onelife on April 29, 2024, 05:25:44 PM »
Quote from: Al Ferraro on March 27, 2014, 07:26:44 AM
Hi Brian,
          Put me down for 5 sets of the Fox 36x BB. This engine has the baffle on top of the piston. The 36x BB has a small relief on the piston to clear the rear bearing in the case. Care has to taking in not making to relief to wide to pervent sub piston induction. I think the baffle should be made stronger something like the K&B 40 because the old piston is made of steel and some of us like to run 40% nitro to hear it crackle. This piston and liner set would work in the needle bearing engines with no mods. You could make a FOX SUPER DUPER STUNT by putting it into a fox 35 stunt by changing the rod & head. The new liner would also fit the 36 shiney case but I think the 36x has a thicker rim at the top of the liner and would give you more head clearance so you would have to do some checking. Motorman is right, the needle bearing crank is slightly larger in diameter than the BB but the crank pin is the same.
Al

I have a NIB fox SUPERSTUNT and I have know ideal what’s in it  except it has a ABC  piston and liner and Hemihead with stuffer backplate is that all there is or is something else different? Is that what Fox in the day called there SS
74
Open Forum / Re: Final update
« Last post by SteveMoon on April 29, 2024, 04:09:03 PM »
Sorry for your loss Matt. Sending best wishes.

Steve
75
Open Forum / Re: Balanced turning questions
« Last post by Steve Helmick on April 29, 2024, 02:41:36 PM »
Unlike John, I've found thrustline mistakes are highly effective and not good. MM made several comments that I agree with 100%; both thrustline changes and neutral adjustment at the handle. None of this stuff is easy, but it is educational and therefore good for you.  D>K Steve
76
Open Forum / Re: Elevator horn/pushrod connection
« Last post by Steve Helmick on April 29, 2024, 02:13:37 PM »
You could cut a rectangular hole in both sides of the fuselage and cover the holes with 1/64" plywood, fair in with 1/32" sheet balsa all around & apply sandpaper.

Or, you could do what Paul does and angle the aft end of the fuselage from the hingeline forward to give access to the elevator horn...the stab and fin/rudder all come off. I think it's a great idea, because then if your stab needs some incidence change, is skewed or tilted, it's easy to fix.  y1 Steve
77
Open Forum / Re: THANK YOU to Perry Rose...
« Last post by Steve Helmick on April 29, 2024, 02:03:40 PM »
Quote from: Luke N. on April 29, 2024, 12:48:09 AM
Which issue of Model Aviation, month, year.
I looked through the last 5 issues and couldn't find it.


Luke

May 2024. Came last week.  H^^ Steve
78
Open Forum / Re: Elevator horn/pushrod connection
« Last post by Ken Culbertson on April 29, 2024, 01:40:30 PM »
I do mine similar to yours.  I have replaced the socket head 4-40 with a flat head Phillips used for countersinking.  That gives you about an extra 1/16".  Best answer is to widen the fuselage (My Endgame IV is 3/4" inside width at the hinge point)  or make your hatch a blister.  The wider aft fuselage gives the stab considerably more rigidity.  Leaving it fixed is not an option.

Ken
79
Building techniques / Re: Endgame IV Build
« Last post by Ken Culbertson on April 29, 2024, 01:23:04 PM »
After reading a lot and listening to a lot of recommendations I have decided, and installed, a DPST switch to turn on both ESC's from one switch.  I got some telling me to wire both switches to on and just use the Arming Plug, powering one from the switch and leaving the other one open, to having a switch for both.  I liked the last one so it now has both ESC powered and the power lead on the 2nd BEC cut.  I don't like the idea of the arming plug powering up the ESCs.  I always insert it with the switches off.

Ken
80
Open Forum / Elevator horn/pushrod connection
« Last post by Matt Brown on April 29, 2024, 01:19:03 PM »
I posted the topic of unequal turning on my Pathfinder LE a day or so ago. In it I mentioned that there wasn’t room for a hatch in the rear. I had cut out for the hatch but that was necessary for clearance on the ball link and bolt for the pushrod. I’m curious what others are using to connect the pushrod to the elevator horn.  I’m using an M3 x 10mm button head socket screw, Dubro 4-40 ball link and a nylok nut. That takes up about 7/16” width. That is exactly how much width I have in the tail of my new Legacy I’m working on. Moving the pushrod backwards like giving up elevator is starting to bind on the fuse sides. I’ll have to cut out the fuse side just to have sufficient space for operation. I’ve seen enough planes at the Nats that are as narrow or even more so than mine. I’m wondering what people are using to connect the horn and pushrod in that narrow space and still have the ability to adjust it.

Thanks, Matt
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