Dave, I don't use a adjustable handle on my combat planes. My lines are exact length using a button style bellcrank. 60' center to center. Using leadouts to the tip would be consistently changing from plane to plane therefore I keep them all the same. We pull test prior to a match and inspect at the designated area. Unfortunately, more than once the failure I mentioned only happened in the area subjected to wear.

OK , well I still don't quite follow where the problem would be as long as you were careful to tie all the ends off equally-might require a holding fixture.  In my combat days (1970's)  we did this but did have a somewhat adjustable handle- the Hot Rock.  In any event maybe nylon guides or eyelets might help.  I'm using the nylon/teflon sheath from those RC control cable pushrods on some of my classic airplanes albeit with .027 cable.

Dave

All good responses here, thank you.

Dennis, can you tell me what the difference is between the VL-3AS double Action brush you bought and the VL-3MH Double Action brush is?  I see that the VL-3MH replaces the VLS-202S while the VL-3AS replaces the VLS-Set. Literature is confusing and difficult to follow.

Steve

Once again the marketing folks in their never ending quest to sell MORE STUFF have muddied the waters.

The VL model has been around for a long time (decades) with no real changes.  Here are the two (2) I was able to identify:

VL-SET - Plastic handle (always) which must be removed to pre-adjust the needle, and the spigot on the bottom for mounting the cup or bottle is a plug-in friction fit.

VLS-SET - Exactly the same as VL-SET except the spigot on the bottom where the cup or bottle plugs in includes a nut to tighten the grip.  Necessary?  I’ve never needed one.

VL-202S - Exactly the same as VL-SET except the plastic handle has been replaced with a “ported” aluminum handle.  The ports allow access to the needle adjuster nut for pre-adjusting and also for pulling the needle back during use.  Some users like to clear the orifice area during use by blowing full air and flicking the needle back and forth.  It’s hard to do with only the trigger.  So they hold the trigger button down and forward (full air but needle is forward, then they grab the needle nut through the ports in the handle and they run it back and forth quickly a few times.  My description may not make much sense until you need to do it, or you see someone do it (YouTube is your friend here).

VLS-202S - Exactly the same as VL-202S except the spigot on the bottom where the cup or bottle plugs in includes a nut to tighten the grip.

Newer model numbers:

VL-3AS - Model number change only.  Exactly the same as the VL-SET.

VLS-3MH - Model number change only.  Exactly the same as the VLS-202S.  I’m pretty sure “MH” stands for Metal Handle.


I hope that helps a bit.

I have noticed wear on the back plates of the Max-S engines. I always make sure the front bearing washer is in place. Has anyone ever tried adding additional backplate gaskets? There's an extensive amount of discussion on the Max-S engines here from back in the day, I'm curious, however, why this topic hasn't been covered more.  Why would a Thunder Tiger prop make any difference other than it has a thinner profile?

Steve

The TT prop for the LA 46 was the magic prop. I never question magic. 🤣

Sort of like the old Rev Ups were the prop to swing. 👍🏼

CF,
Does a new timer come with the latest program upgrades installed?

Best,  DennisT

I have noticed wear on the back plates of the Max-S engines. I always make sure the front bearing washer is in place. Has anyone ever tried adding additional backplate gaskets? There's an extensive amount of discussion on the Max-S engines here from back in the day, I'm curious, however, why this topic hasn't been covered more.  Why would a Thunder Tiger prop make any difference other than it has a thinner profile?

Steve