All the above. I have built AMA slow rat and super slow rat wings that have been fully sheeted, sheeted LE and TE and cap stripped to save some sheeting weight, and bare foam covered with silkspan then low-temp film. All had a 1" thick center rib with a T-shaped bellcrank platform through a slot in the rib. All had balsa block tips to hold the line guides. All had 1/8"x3/8" flat spruce spars. The bare foam wing had a hobby shop balsa LE and TE. The wings with sheeting had 1/2" square spruce LE's, shaped after installation, and no solid TE other than the sheeting.

The blue/yellow airplane has a bare foam (no sheeting) wing. It is a previous NATS winner. The other airplane was ultimately covered in iron-on film.

I always mounted the BC to the body, then added the foam cores.
There is a wood insert on the inboard tip to hold the leadouts.

My setup was just like the current F2d FTR's except the wing was all foam, not just the LE.

Good to know thanks. I want the push rod to come out on the outboard side. I was going to use a large balsa center rib, cut a slot in it and line the slot top and bottom with ply then drill through the whole thing for a 1/8" music wire bellcrank pin. The pin will be glued and the wing sheeting will hold it too.

MM

Good to know thanks. I want the push rod to come out on the outboard side. I was going to use a large balsa center rib, cut a slot in it and line the slot top and bottom with ply then drill through the whole thing for a 1/8" music wire bellcrank pin. The pin will be glued and the wing sheeting will hold it too.

MM

You could also use a 1/8" brass tube that is flush with the top and bottom of the wing (makes the wing easier to work on). Then, use a 3/32" music wire pin through the brass tube. The pin would protrude about 1/2" above and below the wing, and would be inletted into the outboard side of the fuselage. It will NEVER pull out.