I have a Bambu A1 mini and I did a manual seam on the inside but a seam still shows up on the outside and the inside. Anyone know how to make it only print on the inside?

That doesn't look like actual seems but those are artifacts of rapid travels. When you slice the part, select line type in your drop down in the preview and look at the travel types. I think you'll see the rapid travels are circling out of the part while coming back to the seam. In your process quality tab scroll down and select Wall Generator - Arachne, Order of walls Inner / outer, and check Avoid crossing wall and Avoid crossing wall - including support.

PM me and send me the the 3mf file and I'll take a look.

Quote from: Mark wood on August 30, 2026, 04:33:12 PMThat doesn't look like actual seems but those are artifacts of rapid travels. When you slice the part, select line type in your drop down in the preview and look at the travel types. I think you'll see the rapid travels are circling out of the part while coming back to the seam. In your process quality tab scroll down and select Wall Generator - Arachne, Order of walls Inner / outer, and check Avoid crossing wall and Avoid crossing wall - including support.

PM me and send me the the 3mf file and I'll take a look.

Thanks Mark. I'm still learning this A1.
I'll see if I can follow your guidance. If not I'll PM ya. Thanks!

I don't know what type of slicer program you are using but in the Prusa slicer there is a function that randomly starts and stops layers in different spots.  What that looks like to me is where the one layer starts and then stops and it then moves to the next layer and starts and stops at the same point.  Try and find a setting that would randomize that.  It might take a little longer to print but you should not have the seam.

Quote from: Matt Neumann on September 01, 2026, 11:15:04 AMI don't know what type of slicer program you are using but in the Prusa slicer there is a function that randomly starts and stops layers in different spots.  What that looks like to me is where the one layer starts and then stops and it then moves to the next layer and starts and stops at the same point.  Try and find a setting that would randomize that.  It might take a little longer to print but you should not have the seam.

The Bambu labs is based upon the Prusa slicer but has some inhouse "features" that make it seriously simple to use. You are correct that going to a smaller nozzle and selecting the random seam works to mitigate the alignment. The BL slicer also has manual seam mode where you can paint the seam location. This was the case in the model and the seam was aligned on the outside. I printed a couple examples to confirm. The left one is PETG and the right one is ASA CF sanded with 320 and sprayed with Rustoleum Appliance epoxy. The PETG one skidded a little during print. Happens sometimes.

Mark,
How was the settings? Did I miss something or need to change anything?
I can't for the life of me figure out how to just have a seam on the inside of the cone.

Quote from: Paul Taylor on September 01, 2026, 01:40:33 PMMark,
How was the settings? Did I miss something or need to change anything?
I can't for the life of me figure out how to just have a seam on the inside of the cone.

I thought I had sent you an email. I may be in your deadbeat folder. Here is the text:

Hi Paul

It's a combination of details. The part is thick and has to have seams inside and outside do to the geometry. If it weren't for the prop cuts you could do it as a single wall part and have no seams printing in vase mode. The best option is to print with a 0.4 mm nozzle and set the seam to random. That will minimize the visual impact of the seams. I tried this and couldn't get it to work and then I looked at the seam painter and you had painted the manual seams on the outside. That in turn forces the seams to align no matter what. I printed one with the 0.4 mm nozzle and random seam settings and it came out reasonably with ASA CF. The ASA CF tends to have  mat finish so I also did a PETG one with a 0.6mm nozzle for comparison.

Mark

A coupe more

I toot spinners with primer, chuck them up on the drill press, and hit them with sandpaper. 

Quote from: Howard Rush on September 01, 2026, 02:28:51 PMI toot spinners with primer, chuck them up on the drill press, and hit them with sandpaper. 

Nicely done. Appliance Epoxy spray cans are the stapple of my 4/4 building. There's a bazilian small steel thingies that need to be painted less they rust. For parts that matter they get zinc phosphate primed first. We like the Appliance epoxy because it is easy and durable. There's likely other options too. Somewhere around the four hundredth part, one gets stupid tired of painting the bits carefully and switches to easy. White or black bits aren't objectionable four years later when you finally get to the part where you're putting gallons of "real" paint on.

Quote from: Howard Rush on September 01, 2026, 02:28:51 PMI toot spinners with primer, chuck them up on the drill press, and hit them with sandpaper. 

I like the lip scoop.
What size is the spinner? Is that a Du-Bro back plate?
Where is the STL?

Quote from: Paul Taylor on September 01, 2026, 04:05:17 PMI like the lip scoop.

If your stooge fails and the motor runs for a couple minutes on the ground, one stator is cooled and the others burn up.  Guess who put the same scoop on a second airplane after he burned up a motor on the first airplane?

Quote from: Paul Taylor on September 01, 2026, 04:05:17 PMWhat size is the spinner?

2"

Quote from: Paul Taylor on September 01, 2026, 04:05:17 PMIs that a Du-Bro back plate?

Great Planes

Quote from: Paul Taylor on September 01, 2026, 04:05:17 PMWhere is the STL?

Here somewhere, but it's a snug fit to the Igor prop.  It won't work for others.  It's easier to make one from scratch. 

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