stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Randy Ryan on March 04, 2009, 05:20:09 PM
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Well, I've fianlly made it, COLOR THIS WEEKEND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wheel pants are still a holdup but I think I finally have the tools (molds) workable. I've developed a really cheap way of doing this, I'll share it all with pictures when I've got it all together.
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/TreeEels001-1.jpg)
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/TreeEels002.jpg)
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Randy:
That looks REALLY good so far. H^^
So the canopy comes off, is that the Lipo BATTERY hatch??? ??? LL~ (OK so I'm naive..)
Keep those pix coming my friend!
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Thanks Dennis!
Actually the hatch gives me access to the bellcrank. All my control systems are adjustable so I can very rate, differential, deflection and flap/elevator bias. Some say its overkill, but I like being able to push the limits both directions and finding that sweet spot. I've set up my Nobler so I can go to zero deflection so I can experiment with the flaps.
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I am shooting trim colors on a Chevelle right now, that design has a removable cockpit over the flap horn. I liked the feature so much that I'm adding it to an Olympic which I just started. Never thought of expanding it to go over the bellcrank. That's a good idea. I like accessability.
What is you source for that blue foam?
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I'll post a picture when I pull the masking. My bellcrank arrangements are a little different then what you normally see, They allow a full range of adjustments to the flaps and elevators independently.
Blue foam? Are you refering to the foan block in the picture? That's blue foam rubber, it was a leg rest from when my wife had the hip replacment. I cut it up into blocls to set the models on while I sand and prep for paint, it keeps the rudder and tips from getting dragged over the bench and damaged.
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I've used the removable hatch as canopy idea before (though it's been awhile). Works well if the fuse near the tailing edge is sufficiently reinforced. Looks really good. Can't wait to see the final paint.
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Can't wait to see the finished product, Randy. I suppose it's going to have your usual super duper electrifying can't believe that's actually possible mirror shine on it, right?
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I'll post a picture when I pull the masking. My bellcrank arrangements are a little different then what you normally see, They allow a full range of adjustments to the flaps and elevators independently.
Blue foam? Are you refering to the foan block in the picture? That's blue foam rubber, it was a leg rest from when my wife had the hip replacment. I cut it up into blocls to set the models on while I sand and prep for paint, it keeps the rudder and tips from getting dragged over the bench and damaged.
Yea, I was thinking it was a rigid type of foam that could be used to make a moulding buck for LE's or turtle decks.
On your canopy, I like the way you used the tab on the front to eliminate the screw. How did you go about getting a good fit on that compound curve interface between canopy and fuse. Did you happen to take any pictures of that detail during the build? When you take pictures after its done, would like to see a close up of the fit.
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I still think that would make a great battery hatch. I'm still trying to figure out why he added a glow plug hole for the Axi???! ??? ;) LL~ LL~ LL~
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I still think that would make a great battery hatch. I'm still trying to figure out why he added a glow plug hole for the Axi???! ??? ;) LL~ LL~ LL~
Its water cooled, that's the radiator drain hole!
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Can't wait to see the finished product, Randy. I suppose it's going to have your usual super duper electrifying can't believe that's actually possible mirror shine on it, right?
Well Clint, that's the plan, but if the humidity stays high, maybe I'll do more of and etched glass finish!
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Yea, I was thinking it was a rigid type of foam that could be used to make a moulding buck for LE's or turtle decks.
On your canopy, I like the way you used the tab on the front to eliminate the screw. How did you go about getting a good fit on that compound curve interface between canopy and fuse. Did you happen to take any pictures of that detail during the build? When you take pictures after its done, would like to see a close up of the fit.
Allan,
When I made the canopy section removable I laid out the cut line then carefully cut the section out with a small Exacto saw blade. The curf was approximatley 1/32" I then edges both sides of the cutout with 1/64 plywood and added the retention features. I screwed it down and then lightly brought it back to the contour of the fuse top.
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Looking good Randy.
Is this the same Gladiator that you showed when you talked about Dad's stripper?
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Looking good Randy.
Is this the same Gladiator that you showed when you talked about Dad's stripper?
Yes Tom, it is.
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Allan,
When I made the canopy section removable I laid out the cut line then carefully cut the section out with a small Exacto saw blade. The curf was approximatley 1/32" I then edges both sides of the cutout with 1/64 plywood and added the retention features. I screwed it down and then lightly brought it back to the contour of the fuse top.
Not that it makes any difference, just curious. The fuse top block where you cut out the canopy, was it a hollowed block or moulded. If moulded, what thickness. I recently did a moulded block, 2 layers of 1/16. Wondering if that would be enough thickness for you method..
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Allan,
Its a carved deck that runs between 5/32 and 3/16 thick 4-5 lb stock. I coated the inside with epoxy to strengthen and stabilize it.