Author Topic: White primer (Read 2332 times)

Ty Marcucci · « **on:** August 10, 2013, 10:17:09 PM »

Has anyone tried the white primer by Dupli-Color? Part number:DAP 1680?

RC Storick · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2013, 10:49:21 PM »

The white will work just fine.

Jeff Traxler · « **Reply #2 on:** August 11, 2013, 12:18:59 AM »

Hi Ty,I went to a local NAPA to get some DC540 primer when Sparky did the sweet finish on the 30 day machine.The manager said they were out but that was a Duplicolor part number.He got me some the next day.I think the gray fills scratches better but the white is great for light colors.Trax

Will Hinton · « **Reply #3 on:** August 11, 2013, 10:47:27 AM »

So don't leave any scratches! (Tag Trax, you're it!)

FLOYD CARTER · « **Reply #4 on:** August 12, 2013, 10:30:42 AM »

To avoid any paint compatibility issues, I use Brodak White Primer. It's heavy, but most gets sanded off. Best undercoat for white seems to be Brodak Polar Grey.

Floyd

Louis Keller, Jr. · « **Reply #5 on:** August 13, 2013, 11:56:37 AM »

Ty, I used the white version of what Mr. Storic used. I believe the part# was DC530(?). It works fine but you must be aware of its' incompatibility to itself.The instructions say wait 7 seven days before you reapply over itself after a short window during first application. Trust that fact. 6 1/2 days is not long enough.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #6 on:** August 13, 2013, 02:18:40 PM »

I make my own white primer.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #7 on:** August 13, 2013, 02:26:28 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on August 13, 2013, 02:18:40 PM

I make my own white primer.

Recipe?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #8 on:** August 13, 2013, 09:21:58 PM »

Tim,

Clear dope, filler material (I use zinc sterate or sometimes talc), white toner and and usually a a few drops of black.

RC Storick · « **Reply #9 on:** August 14, 2013, 12:11:45 AM »

DC 540 and the 530 is by far the best primer for what we do on the market. This is my opinion and I have painted a few models. With these part numbers there is no need to wait any time but that its dry. Re coat any time. There is also no need to sand primer with any paper finer than 400. I mostly use 320. Then after you use some dope on it use 600.

Ted Fancher · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2013, 01:20:05 PM »

Are these rattle can applications? Sure would be nice to avoid all the cleaning issues associated with guns and filler materials.

Ted

55chevr · « **Reply #11 on:** August 15, 2013, 01:25:08 PM »

A product that I have used successfully on wood projects is Kilz in spray cans. High build and seals well. Some weight to it I am sure but sands off to smooth finish. I have sprayed lacquer over it without any issues but I haven't used butyrate over it.
Joe

David_Stack · « **Reply #12 on:** August 15, 2013, 01:55:17 PM »

Ted;

Yes, the two products mentioned by Sparky are rattlecans, both available via the NAPA parts counter. My experience has been that they don't have it out on the floor, but if you ask they can produce it from the "Raiders of the Lost Ark" shelves in the back... I think it is branded as "NAPA ColorLine", then the DC 530 or 540 part number.

r/
Dave

phil c · « **Reply #13 on:** August 16, 2013, 06:31:31 PM »

Ty, Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate(etherpropylethylester, if that helps visualize the structure) is a slow drying solvent. Probably to give the film time to level out before it sets. Lots of "hooks" to slow the drying.

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #14 on:** September 06, 2013, 06:10:04 PM »

A local guy in our club, Bob Arata, has built a couple of models that he wanted a white base coat on, and took a novel approach that I want to try and may be expanded on. When he was doing the initial dope build ups, he added just a dash of unthinned white dope to the clear. I want to think it is almost like tinting the dope. As you put successive coats of dope on, the color builds up gradually, and by the time you are finshed, that airplane is mostly white already. Lightly sand in between coats as usual. It has a real dfferent look, almost kind of transparent. I would think if you wanted a really stark, almost appliance white finish, this would be a neat way to build up a base for the base coat. It would probably work for any color really. If I ever get my work situation squared away to where I have real time to build, I intend to try this on at least a sport model to get a feel of what it takes.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

Ted Fancher · « **Reply #15 on:** September 28, 2013, 09:54:00 PM »

Quote from: David_Stack on August 15, 2013, 01:55:17 PM

Ted;

Yes, the two products mentioned by Sparky are rattlecans, both available via the NAPA parts counter. My experience has been that they don't have it out on the floor, but if you ask they can produce it from the "Raiders of the Lost Ark" shelves in the back... I think it is branded as "NAPA ColorLine", then the DC 530 or 540 part number.

r/
Dave

Thanks, Dave. I'll have to give it a shot. Any problem over Polyspan???

Ted

Randy Powell · « **Reply #16 on:** September 28, 2013, 11:12:54 PM »

Polyspan? POLYSPAN!

RC Storick · « **Reply #17 on:** September 28, 2013, 11:27:57 PM »

Quote from: Ted Fancher on September 28, 2013, 09:54:00 PM

Thanks, Dave. I'll have to give it a shot. Any problem over Polyspan???

Ted

No problems over anything. Once you use DC540 you will not want to use anything else.

jfv · « **Reply #18 on:** September 30, 2013, 08:11:41 AM »

I've used the gray primer DC 540 Sparky recommended and it is great. Wanted some white, but NAPA only carries the Duplicolor DAP1689. It's not the same. Did they drop the white DC 530?

James_Mynes · « **Reply #19 on:** September 30, 2013, 04:23:05 PM »

My local NAPA couldn't find DC 530 in their system either. I wish they could have, the gray seemed to work real well, but it took some doing to make the white bright afterwards.

Author Topic: White primer (Read 2332 times)

James_Mynes