stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Randy Ryan on March 27, 2009, 07:37:33 PM
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I guess my post on stripping was lost, it was called "I'm not lying" I was asked to repost it, but actually forgot when I got busy. So anyway, here it is.
Dad's Easy Strip, the best I've used
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/Brandon001.jpg)
Ready to strip
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/Brandon002-1.jpg)
T-0:0
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/Brandon003.jpg)
T-0:10
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/Brandon005.jpg)
Comes off in sheets, silkspan and all
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/Brandon006.jpg)
It even strips the fillets clean
(http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k186/RRRyan_01/Brandon009.jpg)
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Randy,
Sometime back you were going to paint an airplane using Nelson paint. Did you ever get around to it?
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Crist,
I did use some Nelson clear on a silked Free Flight. It was only OK, I'm not sure I'd go to the effort of a full finish with it now. But then again, maybe it wasn't a fair example, and the thinner sure is allot cheaper!! We'll see, I'm still a rubbed dope dope, other finishes don't grab me. By the way, I'm nearly (after all this time) finished with the Nobler I had you cut cores for, and I'm actually going to do it up in Monokote and see how if I can leave it on. He He!
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Fancy paint job on the Spacer in the background.
Ed
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H^^ Where can a fellow get the stripper ?? Paint that is ... n1 Thanks, Gil
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Fancy paint job on the Spacer in the background.
Ed
AH! Another FFer in the crowd. Thanks, I get carried away sometimes.
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H^^ Where can a fellow get the stripper ?? Paint that is ... n1 Thanks, Gil
Gil,
I get mine at Miejer's but have seen it at Home Depot too.
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Is this stripper methylene chloride-based? Like Jasco? It seems to be reacting the same.
Floyd
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Problem I had was, I put the silkspan on first then the fillets. Makes it interesting when you pull part of a fillet up.
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Is this stripper methylene chloride-based? Like Jasco? It seems to be reacting the same.
Floyd
Just checked the can, sure is methylene chloride based, also contains a bit of methanol and ethylene glycol butyl ether. This is the fastest and best stripper I've ever used.
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Problem I had was, I put the silkspan on first then the fillets. Makes it interesting when you pull part of a fillet up.
Hmmm, I can see where that might be a problem, I've always done the fillets first then covered up to them and feathered them in with some filler/primer.
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That type of paint stripper is effecive, and doesn't seem to attack glue joints. Only problem, you MUST wear gloves and eye protection! Outdoors, of course! You get a speck on your skin and it burns for days!
Floyd
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That type of paint stripper is effecive, and doesn't seem to attack glue joints. Only problem, you MUST wear gloves and eye protection! Outdoors, of course! You get a speck on your skin and it burns for days!
Floyd
Hmmm, Not my experience Floyd, as you can see in the pictures, I am in my basement shop working with bare hands. It does have a slight burning sensation on the back (soft) side of my fingers, but not to a great degree. As I said in the original thread, this is the mildest stripper I've ever used.
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I agree with Floyd on this one. Rubber gloves as some of this stuff builds up over time. I imagine you wash your hands pretty often while you use this stuff, but still. DOC Holliday
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I agree with Floyd on this one. Rubber gloves as some of this stuff builds up over time. I imagine you wash your hands pretty often while you use this stuff, but still. DOC Holliday
Well, I don't suppose I'd recommend it to others, but for myself, I guess I'm just tough skinned.
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HI Randy,
Did I tell you about that stuff?? LOL!! I have used it for several years now, Aaron found it at Wal Mart. We have gone through two quarts, having stripped 4 planes down to the bare wood!
I am hard headed like you. Never used gloves when using this stuff, and haven't had a reaction on my skin. I DO try to keep it off my skin, though. Aaron used gloves, but then he's never really had to do any manual labor with his hands! LL~ LL~
Great stuff.
Big Bear
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Will that stuff strip polyurathane paints?
W.
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Will that stuff strip polyurathane paints?
W.
Don't know about polys, but it sill strip epopxies for sure.
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I thought epoxies were supposed to be impervious to anything? If it attacks epoxy I think I will stay away from it. H^^
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I thought epoxies were supposed to be impervious to anything? If it attacks epoxy I think I will stay away from it. H^^
Well, unless Hobbypoxy wasn't a true epoxy. It will strip Hobbypoxy.
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So far, I've been to Wal Mart, Lowe's, Home Depot, and ACE trying to find the Dad's stripper, but none had it. The guy at ACE told me they could order it, but I would have to take a case; no thank you! I did notice a product called "Citristrip", and I wondered how that would work. I would like sure like something that would remove $kote like the pictures show. Any advice would be appreciated.
Glen Wearden
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Solved the problem; ordered 2 quarts through Amazon.
Glen Wearden
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I've gotta get some of this stuff. My Home Depot didn't have it or know anything about it. My local Home Depot "assistants" don't know what a friggin' nail is though either.
Glen, Were there any Hazardous fees thru Amazon?
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Wayne, they came through Amazon from Geroy's Building Centers. Don't know if you have any of those in your area. The cost of each quart was $9.80 for a total of $19.60. The shipping through UPS was $12.69!!!!!!! Pretty expensive, but I don't think that included hazmat. I think that items like that up thru quart size can be shipped w/o hazmat charges, at least they do it for fuel. Shipping ain't cheap.
Glen Wearden
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Randy,
I am stripping an airplane using Dad's Stripper. Your pictures show one layer coming off. I assume that is the silkspan or other covering.
In my case the auto basecoat had to scraped off, leaving the carbon veil underneath. After wiping down with denatured alcohol, and some sanding, I applied a coat of butyrate clear, which did not dry, This sticky coat, wiped with a paper towel took the carbon completely off, down to the bare wood. This fine BUT:
Question... What do you use to neutralize the Dad's Stripper????
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I wipe it all down with laquer thinner.
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Thanks Randy
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Lacquer thinner is what I have always used for cleaning up after the *paint* stripping is done. Since Aaron found the Dad's Stripper some years ago, it is all I will use.
Bill
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Yeah, even though it drys and looks good, there's still a residue left from the stripper. I had the same problem the first time I used it too.
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A few additional wipe downs with thinner helped. The worst areas that were sticky are where there is/was carbon veil. I actually used the soft clear dope and paper towels to remove most of the carbon. The next coat of clear still did not dry fast, and I was seriously thinking of ending the project. I was trying to think about what parts might be salvagable, perhaps the main spar. But, the next morning the clear was dry . Now it is a matter of many hours to get it all back to a state where I can recover the airplane.
I am sure that many of you have guessed that it is the Sea Vixen. It seems like this project has become a nightmare, but hopefully the worst is behind me.
I am working on the Vixen and also an OTS airplane in honor of John Miske. The OTS airplane has required more time than most OTS projects, but it is coming along well.
BTW, the OTS airplane is being finished the old fashion way: Clear dope, Talc filler, dope colors, and clear dope topcoat.
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Isn't a "Vixen" a P.I.T.A., by definition? Close, anyway... VD~ Steve
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everyone be careful with anything with chloride in it. Work at a paint factory that made stripper, The two other guys that made stripper with me are dead and I had cancer myself. The kind I had only 8 other cases in the USA all of us worked at chemical factorys. Well ventelated is what I say.
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everyone be careful with anything with chloride in it. Work at a paint factory that made stripper, The two other guys that made stripper with me are dead and I had cancer myself. The kind I had only 8 other cases in the USA all of us worked at chemical factorys. Well ventelated is what I say.
That is excellent advice, thanks.
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Randy,
Have you finished refinishing the plane in these photos?
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Randy,
Have you finished refinishing the plane in these photos?
No Wayne, I haven't. I got as far as the base color and was so disgusted I stopped. I used Bradak Lemon Yellow over white primer, but I might as well have left the primer off because everything reads through it, wood grain and all. I will get back to it, but I'm thinking of shooting it white and doing a yellow burst, it was originally going to be the opposite. My wife will be gone about 5 weeks this winter and I hope to get back to it then. I have to shoot in the basement, so she can't be around even though I run a blower so there's throughput down there.
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Sounds familiar Randy, I rarely use yellow on anything for that exact reason. In any of my experience even over a nice solid white it still takes a lot of yellow to start looking decent. Please keep us posted when you get going on it again.
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Depends on the yellow. Certainly something like lemon yellow is going to take a lot of coats, depending on the undercoat. I solved this problem once by shooting gold as the base coat then yellow over that. Took one coat to cover. But if you shoot chrome yellow (school bus yellow), that tends to cover a bit better. Still takes a couple of coats to get coverage.
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Well, I'm pretty sure I'm just going to shoot white over it and the trim with the yellow along with some blue and red. When I primed it in white I thought I'd have the base on in 2 coats, no dice.
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Randy,
Yea, it seems it takes so much white to get a good base that it sort of defeats the purpose of using it as a base for another color. I ran into this with the Novi I built. I wanted this sort of pearl medium olive green as a base color. I shot white first and had to go with 2 fairly heavy coats to get a nice even base, then shot Organic Green HOK candy base. It was supposed to be a sort of medium olivey green. Then I was going to shoot clear topcoat with green pearl that would give the color I wanted. But as it turned out, when I shot the Organic Green HOK base, what I got was a lime popsicle. Had to shoot additional base to tone it down and each coat only added more weight. I ended up with something like 6 full coats of base and added 6oz to plane's weight. Luckily, the airframe was light and in the end I was able to bring it in at a reasonable overall weight. But I'll never do that again.
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Maybe I'll just shoot it red and be done with it!
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Randy,
Maybe blue. Red is only a little less transparent than yellow. ;D