stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: EddyR on May 24, 2012, 04:47:15 PM
-
I talked about using this clear on a model last year but this is the first chance I have had to use it. I have used it on restored bicycles and it looks like you can put your finger down into the finish. It is almost impossible get a run with it and it get tacky in ten minutes and you can handle it in 30 minutes. I put one coat on the botton of the plane and two coats on the top of the wing and the front of the body. There is only one coat on the stab and rudder top. I used 3/4 of the can. Here is a link to it, 2Part (2K), SprayMax Urethane Aerosol Clear Coat
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
It was very easy to use. I did not weigh before and after so it is what it is
One can would do a full size stunter. One coat would be plenty #^
Ed
-
Ed,
Thank you so much for giving that information up.
Again, you did an excelent job with your Bearcat and the best of luck flying it.
Charles
-
Wow, this is amazing stuff! I am still afraid of spraying those types of paints mainly because I am not sure what kind of safety is needed to avoid exposure to poisons. How do you do it? Do you spray outdoors? what kind of mast does one have to wear. Do I need positive pressure suite with a fresh air pump pumping air into the suit?
-
Sad that you didn't get a before and after weight
-
I think it gained 1.5 ounces or less. I know what it weighted before I added the prop and nose weight and tip weight so I subtracted them and get around 1.5 ounces
-
Did you order this or do the auto supply stores carry this?
-
Post @1 says "here is the link to it"
Brad I did order it from that company.
Do a Google search and you should find quite a bit about it. I first found out about it several years ago on a bicycle forum.
One nice thing about it is it left the controls nice and loose. Dope tends to gum up the hinges.
I did try the can four days after opening it and it still worked but the clear dried very fast but flat. So the pot life is at least four days.
I tried sanding and buffing a spot on the bottom and I lost the shine. I will try again after the clear is older. I can see no reason to do anything more to the finish. Also it was a humid day,around 75% No blush and no pulling the fillets
Ed
-
Ed, was this sprayed over dope? Thanks...
-
Ed, was this sprayed over dope? Thanks...
Brother Bill,
(not Ed, of course, but....) I believe the paint is Duplicolor (pretty sure) touch up, or their "Paint Shop" in quart cans. Hopefully Ed will set me straight.
Bill
-
Yup Bill Little is correct. I used Dope to shrink the paper on the wing which was put over SLC. After that I used Duplicolor clear Lacquer. Duplicolor blue and one coat of clear Duplicolor to bring up the shine and then the two part clear. DC lacquer will mix with Sig ,Brodak and any dope. You can put down dope then DC then dope then DC and you will not have any problems. The DC is quart cans not spray cans. The DC clear is semi fuel proof. DC clear will not pull fillets as it is a non shrink product. It sands easy and flows out better than dope. The smell is bad ~^ I found the pot life to be four days and it was still working. I am going to try it on a I beam plane soon.
Ed
-
Yup Bill Little is correct. I used Dope to shrink the paper on the wing which was put over SLS. After that I used Duplicolor clear Lacquer. Duplicolor blue and one coat of clear Duplicolor to bring up the shine and then the two part clear. DC lacquer will mix with Sig ,Brodak and any dope. You can put down dope then DC then dope then DC and you will not have any problems. The DC is quart cans not spray cans. The DC clear is semi fuel proof. DC clear will not pull fillets as it is a non shrink product. It sands easy and flows out better than dope. The smell is bad ~^ I found the pot life to be four days and it was still working. I am going to try it on a I beam plane soon.Ed
Ed,
No doubt you do well with this stuff, your model is living proof. Kudos!
What is "SLS" ?
Charles
-
I should have said SLC not SLS. Here is a link that will tell you about it. Go down to Phil C's comments about it. He sells it.
Ed
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=19859.0
-
Ed,
What type of breathing filter do you use with this material?
Best, DennisT
-
Outside upwind y1
-
And what do you do when the wind does a 180 degree change on you. Lost a good friend spraying that death paint that was so popular a few years ago. At least that is what the autopsy showed.
-
I did some searches on paint shops using this paint for spot repair, they used simple paint gloves, long sleeve shirts and pants and a simple two cartridge paint mask/filter. Seems that if you use this and paint outside should be OK for our size projects. Very good reviews of this product. I ordered a can from the site.
Best, DennisT
-
The clear coat arrived over the weekend, I did view the video's on how to activate, prep and apply. Seems pretty straight forward. I figure I'll get one of the paper hospital gowns and the carbon mask and I'll be set, the technicians in the video didn't use space suits (with the hospital gown I figure I'll be prepped just in case, save time at admitting LL~). Hope to have the El Diabo finished over the next week and get the final clear on after the dope gases off for a week or so. Is that long enough?
Best, DennisT
-
Dennis,
Is your dope drying flat or shinny?
Does dope dry shinny or flat?
What brand are you using Dennis?
Charles
-
The dope is slightly shinny when I add a touch of retarder. I am using Sig dopes both clear supercoat for the tunting and Litecoat for the color and clear top coats to fill the silk. My basic approach is to let it gas off until you can't smell it from a foot away then apply letters/numbers and final clear.
Best, Dennis
-
Dennis
Less than 1/2 a can will be needed. Find a old plane to use the rest of it.
Ed