The recover is complete and some test flights done. Since I am still working from a bedroom I misplaced the wedge tab I had working so needed to make up a replacement. Luckily the LHS in Hendersonville had some trailing edge stock and I got the new one dialed in. Finally found a field with the grass short enough for upright landings.

Next issue is the motor. On one of the first flight attempts before the recover I was at a field that had like 2 1/2" grass and I had 2" wheels, I had a walking path for takeoff it was short and I hit the grass before I got airborne, this was with the motor sensitivity set to normal and it tried to keep going, finally timed out but there was a little smoke. I did a test run and all seemed OK. It just seemed that we are a bit slow. I checked with Inov8tion and they said it could be a little weak but, I was asking 10K with a 4S pack. That was a little passed what they tested the BA2320 - 820Kv at with the 9x6 APCE prop. So I was at full throttle and maybe less after the flip.  So I am now retrofitting a BA 2814 -980Kv and that should more than handle it.

i would avoid balsarite because the trasnparent may stick and lost color to the wood.
you can disguise the overlap painting a trim color on the LE . i clear coeated the whole plane later

Fred,
What paints did you use and what clear coat? I like the idea of full clear coat to seal all the edges, so you don't get the dirty on the seam buildup.

I am contemplating doing a checkerboard on one wing bay. Before I did the recover with the MonoKote I had a yellow dyed silkspan and I painted on the checkerboard with dope. Because I did it to fit one wing bay section the checks are an odd size. I have looked at doing vinyl or Trimkote squares but getting them to fit will be a challenge. The ship is electric so the Testors enamel they use for plastic models would be good. I have done some test by spraying spots on scrap MonoKote then put blue 3M painters tape on it and had mixed results. I admit I just sprayed the paint with no prep so the fact that most of it stayed is encouraging. I was thinking that one should clean the surface with 70% alcohol, then mask off the first section of checks, let cure out for a few days and remove the tape, let it cure another day or so then using the purple 3M sensitive surface tape do the second checks to complete the checkerboard. Do you think this could work?

Best,   DennisT

Or, you could just use more Monokote....

Dave,
Did you do the individual squares over the white or did you cut out squares and leave 3/16" boarder to put the black squares on?

Best,    DennisT

Quote from: Dennis Toth on May 06, 2026, 08:27:31 AMDave,
Did you do the individual squares over the white or did you cut out squares and leave 3/16" boarder to put the black squares on?
Best,    DennisT

The easiest solution is to just use something along the lines of this: Checkboard Covering Film

Steve

Dennis,

On the Slow Bob, I covered the wing in white and then ironed on the black squares. You can therefore select any size that you like, tailored to your specific plane.

Dave