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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Motorman on July 12, 2022, 02:21:55 PM
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I need to cover my racer. It's just leading edge, trailing edge and ribs like a Ringmaster type wing. I have used Sig Koverall with dope in the past. It's wonderfully tough but really heavy. What do you think if I covered open bays and everything with maybe 2 layers of Carbon fiber tissue using Zap Zpoxy.
Thanks,
Motorman 8)
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I have found carbon fibre only works on solid surfaces. Cover your wing with a cloth material and don't seal the open areas. Cover with SLC or mylar covering. So far I have yet to poke a hole through this combination. D>K
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SLC over the open bays. Cover entire wing with silkspan. Light and strong.
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Icarex?
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I need to cover my racer. It's just leading edge, trailing edge and ribs like a Ringmaster type wing. I have used Sig Koverall with dope in the past. It's wonderfully tough but really heavy. What do you think if I covered open bays and everything with maybe 2 layers of Carbon fiber tissue using Zap Zpoxy.
Rigid, but NO toughness - exceptionally brittle, in fact. If you just want to cover it, Micafilm is absurdly tough and reasonably light.
Brett
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Icarex?
Where do you buy the good stuff? I found this site with a quick search.
https://www.kitesandfunthings.com/Products/ICAREX-PC31__ICAREX.aspx
Thanks,
Motorman 8)
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Where do you buy the good stuff? I found this site with a quick search.
https://www.kitesandfunthings.com/Products/ICAREX-PC31__ICAREX.aspx
Thanks,
Motorman 8)
I think the "standard" Icarex PC31 is good for your use, the slightly better Japanese ripstop polyester we normally buy from a free flight friend in Israel. In US you might want to ask from www.faimodelsupply.com
Give Charlie a call! L
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Take a look at the SLC over polyspan thread below. It works great, is incredibly tough and is lighter than a doped finish.
Also, inexpensive and odor free. #^
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Just pulled the trigger on a square yard of Icarex. I saw where you put it on with thinned contact cement then ironed it on. I have some 3M77 spray that might work. I'm wondering if dope thinner can penetrate this stuff so I can attach it with dope the usual way? I guess I'll have fun finding out.
Motorman 8)
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I need to cover my racer. It's just leading edge, trailing edge and ribs like a Ringmaster type wing.
Thanks,
Motorman 8)
Is monokote out of the question?
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Just pulled the trigger on a square yard of Icarex. I saw where you put it on with thinned contact cement then ironed it on. I have some 3M77 spray that might work. I'm wondering if dope thinner can penetrate this stuff so I can attach it with dope the usual way? I guess I'll have fun finding out.
Motorman 8)
Never tried the spray cement in this use, but go ahead, give it a try. But for sure, it won't work with dope.
You can use basically any contact cement (in tube) that can be diluted with nitrocellulose thinner. The biggest difference is how they react to UV light (may turn yellow in time), and how brittle they become in cold.
I don't know much about US glues, but I've heard people using Velcro adhesive, and something called UGL.
I use UHU contact cement meant for soft PVC (for patching rubber boats and such). It stays quite clear for a long time, and it also stays flexible which is important when we fly in cold weather.
I dilute it 1:1 and brush 2-3 coats, letting it dry between coats. Then iron the Icarex on.
But I only used it to cover carbon structures, with balsa you'll need to experiment a little, I guess. Maybe a coat or two of dope before the glue. L
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Thanks Lauri, I've got some UHU contact cement on the way and I have a can of lacquer thinner. Once it's on. what do you use to fuel proof Icarex?
Thanks,
Motorman
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Thanks Lauri, I've got some UHU contact cement on the way and I have a can of lacquer thinner. Once it's on. what do you use to fuel proof Icarex?
Thanks,
Motorman
I don't fuel proof as I only use it on my gliders. But I put 2 coats of dope followed by sanding with 2000, to improve surface quality.
If I were to use it on a stunt plane, I'd do the base work with some 2-component sanding primer, epoxy or acrylic. L
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Got the Icarex, interesting stuff, very tight weave. Couldn't get very thin CA glue through it. Do you ever put it on the wing with the weave on the bias?
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Yes, the original stuff needs a coat or 2 of dope to make it airtight. The Japanese not.
Why would you put CA on it?
Bias? You mean diagonal? Of course you can, but what’s the point? It’ll make it sag more between ribs. L
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I was just fooling around to see if I could stick it down with CA. I've got a tube of UHU so I will go with your method. So will sagging between ribs give me less frontal area drag? Sounds good for a racer, yes?
Motorman 8)
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So will sagging between ribs give me less frontal area drag? Sounds good for a racer, yes?
Motorman 8)
Well, in my gliders I want that the airfoil is what is designed to be, that's how they perform the best. It's also good to pull the covering tight when attaching it to the ribs in ends of wing panels. that reduces sagging, too. L