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Today I will start a how to cover and finish my beam wing ship. First photo shows aircraft in the rough stage. No dope or covering.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125039;image)
Its at 23.5 oz as seen here.
Part of finishing light is to project a finished weight. So lets take time to do just that.
Airframe 23.5
hardware 20 oz
and finish 8-10 oz
so by my math it should come out between 51 and 53 oz give or take. My absolute max weight will be 55 oz ready to fly. I will try to do a acceptable finish and achieve that weight.
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Do you plan to check weight gain for each step of the finish process ?
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Do you plan to check weight gain for each step of the finish process ?
Yes today I am putting first coats of clear on I will weigh it tomorrow after it gasses off.
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Cool, been waiting a long time for an actual step-by-step from Sparky on finishing. This will be good. y1
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Yes today I am putting first coats of clear on I will weigh it tomorrow after it gasses off.
When putting on the 3 coats of dope around perimeter for attaching covering, I will do all 3 coats in one day, because the raw balsa sucks it up so fast its dries in 15 minutes it seems. Is that what you do ? Later on when brushing fill coats I will do one coat in morning and a second coat in afternoon.
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When putting on the 3 coats of dope around perimeter for attaching covering, I will do all 3 coats in one day, because the raw balsa sucks it up so fast its dries in 15 minutes it seems. Is that what you do ? Later on when brushing fill coats I will do one coat in morning and a second coat in afternoon.
First step is 2 coats 100% over whole plane. Sand with 320 and fix the bad spots. Today I am applying the covering. Use your favorite covering and method. Apply 1 coat in the morning and the next one a few hours later. Sense this is a quick build and finish I will be applying 3 coats a day.
Covering added 1.5 OZ. As seen here 25 OZ.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125077;image)
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Can we assume electric powered ? -- or IC ?
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Can we assume electric powered ? -- or IC ?
This is a electric powered model. If my experiment pans out it will be all that I build from now on out.
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I put it all together and with everything its 46 OZ. So I think I can make my target weight of 55 OZ. Wish it was lighter but its a start.
While the covering first 2 coats are drying I am going over the whole airplane doing all the detail sanding and touch ups. I wanted to do a quick build but still would like a good finish. So this is what it takes to do a great finish quick. Time management. While one part is drying move to the next. There is something to keep you going at all times.
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Sparky, it's looking excellent so far! From some angles it looks like it could have been a NAVY jet fighter.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Here is a shot of it together less wheel doors or pants
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125081;image)
Not too bad for 15 days work?
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Safty switch install. These are some of the things I speak of in time management. Keep moving forward.. Pics tell it all.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125089;image)
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Man, Robert, you are cooool. I love your build threads ! Very nice. You are a very productive and high quality builder. Will be interesting to see the weight difference between the two Crossfire airplanes. Also any flying characteristic differences. Onward ! :)
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Did I miss it, or what's the covering? Not much of a finishing thread when you say apply the covering of your choice. How about more detail Sparky? Like step by step!
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What was the weight of the just the clear coats added like you promised in reply #2?
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Apply silk span or polyspan in the normal manner. 2 coats of dope and stick down. I didn't take photo's of that. I am still applying silkspan to the flaps and fuse. After sticking it down apply dope until filled. It takes on a sheen. Nothing more boaring than watching paint dry Crist.
I has gained 1.5 oz thus far.
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Sparky,
The guys want you to describe how YOU do this finish. All you have to do is tell us. Preferbably step-by-step. We're not watching paint dry, we just want some information.
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First step is 2 coats 100% over whole plane. Sand with 320 and fix the bad spots. Then I am applying silkspan to whole model. And 2 coats on top of it. Tomorrow 2 coats more. I sand between coats with 320. This is a mixture of 75%-/25%. There will be no CF on this model.. At this time I would like to explain the design changes. It has a 1/2 larger root and tip. this plane has 3/4 asymmetry and a 17.5 tail moment and a 11.5 inch nose. The changes are subtle and just a experiment.
Along with the beam construction I am hoping for a 5 to 6 ounce loss in weight. This plane has adjustable controls as well.
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Sparkey when do you cut the cowl inlet for cooling? Or is there another opening that we can't see! ??? ???
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Sparkey when do you cut the cowl inlet for cooling? Or is there another opening that we can't see! ??? ???
I cut the opening today and added 1 coat of dope. So far the finish as cost is 2 oz.. I am at 25.5 oz. and its gassing off still. For a light finish its all about sanding so today after a trip to the store for some more 320 and dinner I will be sanding. I figure 2 days of sanding and on to prime. I will post a pic later today after coming home.
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Now, you're talking Sparky! Thanks.
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Today I had a few things to do around the house so I didn't get a whole lot done but I did get the fillets in . So thus far its 2 coats of 100% dope on raw wood. 4 coats 75-25% dope whole plane. Add fillets. Keep sanding. I will sand and apply one more coat brushed on 50/50 tonight and move to the primer stage tomorrow. Sense this a old school straight dope finish and it's electric. I am going to get the plane in flight ready status and see what it weighs before adding color and clear. Everything will stop at 55 oz no mater what so it's all in the sanding now.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125161;image)
Look back and keep a eye on the dates. This gives a incite on how fast you can build one if you set your mind to it. Trust me when I say this the quality is not lacking.
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So thus far its 2 coats of 100% dope on raw wood. 4 coats 75-25% dope whole plane.
75 thinner, 25 dope?
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75 thinner, 25 dope?
75% dope 25% thinner. I am trying to build something to sand.
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Sparky,
The timing of this thread is perfect.I have a project at this stage of finish and I have been goin slow cause I ain't real sure where to go.Seeing this I think primer is in order,everything is covered in silkspan and has 5 good coats with 320 in between.Fun,Fun,Fun.It sure is nice to get over the hump of wreckin' airplanes.Now I can make a nice ship and won't have to fly ARFs anymore.
Trax
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Sparky,
The timing of this thread is perfect.I have a project at this stage of finish and I have been goin slow cause I ain't real sure where to go.Seeing this I think primer is in order,everything is covered in silkspan and has 5 good coats with 320 in between.Fun,Fun,Fun.It sure is nice to get over the hump of wreckin' airplanes.Now I can make a nice ship and won't have to fly ARFs anymore.
Trax
If you follow my number of coats and are dillagent in sanding you will have a top model. Ask anyone who have seen my finishes they aren't too bad. No mater how much time is spent. If its a week finish or 2 months the only difference is details.
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So far finishing costs 3.34 OZ in covering and fillets. 4 Coats of dope over whole plane. Still sanding
Even though this was a quick build I am becoming fond of it. The fits are great. I will be finishing this to be at least be NATS quality and fly the best of the 2 at this years NATS. I am trying to dream up a paint job to compete with what I have seen so far on this forum.
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I am trying to dream up a paint job to compete with what I have seen so far on this forum.
How about white overall with copper and orange trim? ;D :##
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I will definately pay attention to the procedure Sparky.Your ships always look FRONT ROW H^^ H^^
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Not much to report today so far. I mounted the canopy and filled the fillets where I missed. Today is all about sanding. Sand once re-sand. Add a coat and sand 4 more times and add another coat and sand 6 more times. I know you think I am kidding but I am not. A good finish is all about sanding.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125228;image)
Cooling
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125234;image)
Inlet
Outlet
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125232;image)
17 days to this point. I wish I would have started this sooner
No special provisions have been built into this plane for cooling. Comes in one end and out the other.
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Sparky, it's looking excellent so far! From some angles it looks like it could have been a NAVY jet fighter.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
My thoughts too. Very jet like, nice lines. It would look killer in a 50's USAF scheme.
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G/Day Rob
Mate looking good.I just have a couple of questions, the first which I may have miss earlier in the build , what is your set going to be? and the second is that 55oz you are aiming at, with the battery?
regards Steve
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55 OZ max ready to fly. Battery installed.
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I have tried usisng Sparky's method of finish. He has way more patience than I do. I sand until it feels smooth and then put on more dope. He has front row finishes even if some judges don't think so. But, then again I am no appearance judge and is the reason I hide my planes behind the bushes at VSC.
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Ready to start priming. Today I had to have NAPA order the primer I use seems they didn't have any on the shelf. I will pick it up in the morning and start to finish. As seen here its 50 ounces ,could be flown now. This includes .5 approx wing tip weight. All the electric hardware is on board.
This airplane is a little larger the the original Crossfire its approx 670 Squares with a 11.5 nose moment and a 17.75 tail. Stab is same area. Depending on the weight as finished I might add wheel pants on this one as long as they are super light. Most electrics I have seen have been running 0 degrees offset. this one has between 2-3 degrees. 1/4 inch at prop tips. I made the nose longer to allow adjustment in the battery .
I am most please with the way this has come out. I am not sure I could have done it any better had it taken 6 months instead of 3 weeks.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125307;image)
This was all my second choice wood (scraps I had left over from other builds).
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My thoughts too. Very jet like, nice lines. It would look killer in a 50's USAF scheme.
...silver with some cool period markings, sounds like a lightweight paint job to me. y1
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Hey Robert, what can you tell me is the "important" difference between the Aeropoxy super-fil you're useing and the Aeropoxy light? I see them both in the Brodak catalog, next to each other, but thier descriptions in the catalog don't really say much. BTW, looks wonderful, & 3 weeks doesn't even compute for me, even though I don't work and can build all I want, LOL.
Thanks in Advance,
James
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Following and learning...
That's amazing Robert.
You got so much done and done right so fast.
I love the cooling!!!
Marcus
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Hope your NAPA store don't hit you like mine did. The quart of primer I got was twice the price of the last can I got. By the way the plane looks great. Now you being ex Navy, looks like a Blue Angels scheme would work.
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I got 6 cans of DC 540 today and I have used 2. Today is the first day of put it on and sand it off. I think by Saturday I can shoot color. Which I just got in from Wicks. There were surprisingly very few large mistakes to fix. Guess I need to speed build from now on out. 19 days into it and I am finishing.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125333;image)
I shoot 1 coat of primer over the whole plane and sand with 400. Go back over the bad spots as many times as needed to make it smooth no dings dents or sanding marks. This is the stage that makes the finish. I can do a spectacular paint job with a bug sprayer because a paint job is not in the application its in the sanding. So taking your time here yields a better finished product.
For the new modeler folowing this thread and wondering how I can do this so quickly. Here it is. When I was younger my DAD owned a Hobby shop and all I did all day was build. That coupled with 50+ years experience helps. Take your time there is no race. Just do your thing at your own pace and you will find that model building is a truly enjoyable activity.
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I agree, Sparky, that building is a very enjoyable experience. There was a time when I could also knock out a plane at warp speed. But until the health gets better (I'm getting there, slowly) I am not turning out much work. I have a few models that I *MUST* get finished...............
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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Robert, I notice you've not layed any primer on the flaps, any reason for this?
Can you talk us through the details of sanding the wing so you don't blow through the covering?
Also, what grade silkspan are you using?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm very interested in what you're doing.
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Robert, I notice you've not layed any primer on the flaps, any reason for this?
Can you talk us through the details of sanding the wing so you don't blow through the covering?
Also, what grade silkspan are you using?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm very interested in what you're doing.
I just have not got to the flaps yet. This is polyspan on wings and silkspan on the wood. I use 400 Grit and sand up to the rib. Stay off the ribs. Its easy.
I will sand 90% of this primer off leaving it transparent. You can just see the wood under it. That finish sanding is done with 600. Should take a day or so before final sanding before paint.
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Now you being ex Navy, looks like a Blue Angels scheme would work.
Now there's an idea! And easy!
Paint yellow, lay masks, paint blue, done.
(Some silver on all of the leading edges would also be a cool detail with that scheme) y1
If you're going to do more of them this can be "Blue Angels 1" and so on...
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I have the paint in my head and you will like it. Its going to be a little more than the last one. Well a lot more.
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It's late and I am tired. I spent all day sanding and I am just about ready to paint. I think one more day of prep work and I can shoot color.The paint scheme I have in mind is the back half of the plane white. White LE with black checks and the front half red. Blue pinstripes. Black canopy. Kind of a reverse of the plane I flew ate the team trials a few years ago. The weight is creeping fast and I don't know If I can hit my goal. Might go over a little. I do want it Nat's quality so that comes at a small cost. Still targeting 55 oz and it will be close. I know what paint weighs. There sure wont be a gallon of clear on it! LMAO
I will post a progress pic as there is some change.
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It's late and I am tired. I spent all day sanding and I am just about ready to paint. I think one more day of prep work and I can shoot color.The paint scheme I have in mind is the back half of the plane white. White LE with black checks and the front half red. Blue pinstripes. Black canopy. Kind of a reverse of the plane I flew ate the team trials a few years ago. The weight is creeping fast and I don't know If I can hit my goal. Might go over a little. I do want it Nat's quality so that comes at a small cost. Still targeting 55 oz and it will be close. I know what paint weighs. There sure wont be a gallon of clear on it! LMAO
I will post a progress pic as there is some change.
I know that you are shooting for 55oz but I think it would still fly very well at 60oz. I wouldn't worry too much.
Derek
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I have one at 60 now.
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Here is the plane all in prime. Its been sanded with 400. Today I will spend the day sanding with 600 and fixing any samll dings dents or scratches. Should be ready to shoot color tomorrow. At the end of this thread I will do a recap in fast finishing.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125349;image)
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In building and finishing the most important tool is the sand paper. Let me give a run down on that.
I use 30-40 grit for rough shaping flaps and blocks. After getting them close I finish shaping with 100 down to 220. All large pieces can be shaped in this manner. I use a dremel sanding drum to rough hollow. Followed by gluing 100 grit sandpaper to my fingers. ( use the light method ) Finish off with 220 inside the block. The whole plane is put together and any long edges shaped with a long sanding block affixed with 220. Now that it straight and sanded with 220 it time to step down to 320. Sand whole plane till smoother use the light to see any low spots and use a block affixed with 320 to finish shaping.
Apply 3 coats 100% clear dope lightly sanding between coats with 320. Apply covering and then use 75% dope 25% thinner on wings 3 coats. sanding in between coats with 320 then apply fillets and shape. Now mix some 50/50 dope thinner. 3 coats whole plane and sand sand sand. Now I use NAPA DC 540 light grey primer . I buy 6 cans at a time. start with a liberal coat over the wings top and bottom same number of coat and do the top and bottom of one panel at the same time. Important on flaps. This keeps them from warping. Sanding all the primer with 400 grit paper. Fix all the bad spots. I use a lacquer spot putty for any small scratches. Be careful using this as it is heavy. Touch up the plane around wings and fillets.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125351;image)
After you are satisfied with the plane sand whole plane with 600 paper until the primer is semi transparent. You can see the wood just start to show under it. Just leave it all a even light grey so color application is even.
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Are you wet or dry sanding the primer?
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I only use water on urethane. I always sand dry.
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What are you using to prep the primer before the color coats?
What solvent and do you use a tack rag?
This my sound silly, but with all that sanding is the model electrically charged (static)?
Wouldn't that attract dust? Anyway to dissipate it?
I know some guys use it to their advantage when applying paint.
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What are you using to prep the primer before the color coats?
What solvent and do you use a tack rag?
This my sound silly, but with all that sanding is the model electrically charged (static)?
Wouldn't that attract dust? Anyway to dissipate it?
I know some guys use it to their advantage when applying paint.
I use nothing to prep the primer. I use alcohol on a paper towel to remove any residue and then a tack rag. I am old school and it works every time. Before I found this primer I use to use dope with talcum powder in it. Love that smell. Aerogloss and talc.
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Bob do you leave the motor in the plane when painting? or is it just for pix? and is that the spinner you are using and will be painted with plane? n~
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Bob do you leave the motor in the plane when painting? or is it just for pix? and is that the spinner you are using and will be painted with plane? n~
That is the spinner and yes it will match the red. The motor is taped up. No big deal. Seeing that I am weighing this as I go I don't want to be botherd taking stuff in and out every five min.
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While this whole project has progressed fast here is why. In the last 20 days I have spent 10-15 hrs a day working on this. so between 200 and 300 hours. So its all the same except I have accelerated it some. The average stunt plane takes 300-400 hours to build. With the new glues CA and 5 Min Epoxy etc. it makes it great. In the days of Ambroid ,Testors and white glue this would have been a feat although possable.
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Well I am ready to start color sooner than I thought. The wood fits on this plane were good so they finished easily. So I am going to lay the white on it tonight and tomorrow the red.
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Thanks for all the detailed info Sparky, please keep it coming. y1
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What Wayne said!
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What Wayne said!
X2!!!!!!!!!!!!
Marcus
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Robert
Old School Rulezz VD~
(http://imageshack.us/a/img856/905/20130419114526584.jpg)
Marcus
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....In the last 20 days I have spent 10-15 hrs a day working on this.....
Ah HA!!!! That explains it! While I am work and my model sits idle, you are at home cranking it out more so than a full time job!!
Good show Sparky, can't wait to see it at the Nats!
Thanks and please keep the details coming!
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Ah HA!!!! That explains it! While I am work and my model sits idle, you are at home cranking it out more so than a full time job!!
Good show Sparky, can't wait to see it at the Nats!
Thanks and please keep the details coming!
I would trade with you Doug. I am laid off. So to keep busy I build.
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first coat of white. There are a couple spots I will fix and touch up.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125422;image)
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I would trade with you Doug. I am laid off. So to keep busy I build.
Oh, that sucks big time. Sorry to hear that.
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She's lookin good Sparky!!I've been working on the sanding......and more sanding.....and.The good news is I think I am getting to a paintable subsrtate.I just put some Coltrane on the CD machine and have at it.It should be the Beatles however......"I've got blistas on my fingas"
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I will not make my goal. That's too bad so it has now been adjusted to 57 OZ. This is too bad. I am not sure it possable to build a ship of this size in low to mid 50 TYS. Just too much concentrated weight. 23 ounces of hardware is just unreal.
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Bob what motor are you using ? the difference of the E-32 setup and the E-25 setup is 3oz ! ???
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4S 3300 battery 12.5
e-flight 25 6.5
speed control 1.5
spinner and prop 1.5
timer .25
for a total of 22.25 OZ and there is wire and a kill switch and wire to add so more like 24 OZ. Almost 50% of the planes weight is concentrated in the nose.
While in my opinion this concentrated weight has a disadvantage I think the power delivery has a strong advantage in control and predictability.
Right now as it sits in while base coat I am at 1575 that 55.5 oz no trim or clear. So I think it will be between 57 and 58 ounces. I am not quite sure why target weight was missed by 2 oz. But heck its still lighter with more square inches than the first one.
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The canvas is set. Today I painted the white and sanded all the bad spots and re-shot those. Tonight I will tape some of the graphics so I can shoot the red tomorrow. I think I am about a week out from first flight. No weight at this time. I will report as soon as possible.
Start date
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30968.0;attach=124241;image)
Link to day by day progress http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=30972.0
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125481;image)
This was all shot with a airbrush and took 5 ounces of white to paint. It will take another 3 ounces of red and maybe a ounce of black and blue, I am not sure how much clear will be put on it. I will shoot clear until I think it balances. 21 days start to this point. I am seeing this as a NATS ready plane. All depends on how it flys.
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I am not sure it possable to build a ship of this size in low to mid 50 TYS. Just too much concentrated weight.
But haven't you forgotten the step where you bore the model full of holes? ;D :##
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I built those in
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Here's where I get my holes. If you need more, I think there are enough there for both of us.
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But haven't you forgotten the step where you bore the model full of holes? ;D :##
W,
Still busting me up? And getting away with it. LL~
I saw a photo if that framed fuselage of the Warbird you posted. I'd be on that in a heart beat. Or send it to me.
Robert,
I don't know how important that fuselage tail area is behind the elevator, but if it was eliminated I wonder how much weight would be saved?
Just an observation. "JAO."
Looks like the hatch IS your canopy line?
Looking good Robert!!
Charles
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This was all shot with a airbrush and took 5 ounces of white to paint.
Airbrush ? How long does that take ? Why not something larger, at least a mid size or detail gun.
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Myself, I use an airbrush when I want more control over the amount of paint that I am putting on. Besides when you have nothing else to do, why not take the time.
I followed the construction of this plane and I can't see where he could make it any lighter. Now as far as holes, look at the Green Box Nobler in which some people left the wood in the fuselage for the strength it provided.
Sparky, the plane is looking better each time.
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Myself, I use an airbrush when I want more control over the amount of paint that I am putting on. Besides when you have nothing else to do, why not take the time.
I followed the construction of this plane and I can't see where he could make it any lighter. Now as far as holes, look at the Green Box Nobler in which some people left the wood in the fuselage for the strength it provided.
Sparky, the plane is looking better each time.
Where it has picked up a lot of its weight is in the finish. Because its a speed finish I am sure it cost me some weight not letting things dry. Might take a few weeks to gas off to get the corrected weight. Its still light for what it is. If I stop now its 56. But I wont be happy with a white plane so I must trim it and clear it. 2 oz more at least.
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I painted my entire 64" span, 700 square inch PBY Catalina with a small Badger airbrush. At the time, I had decided to use the airbrush because the design of the model was very difficult to navigate, even with the small 7oz paint detail gun that I normally use. It was while I was painting that I realized I was probably saving a bunch of weight too, especially with it being such a large model. I'm confident that there ended up being a measurable difference in weight from what it would have been with a normal gun. It wasn't bad at all to do either, about an hour each for the grey bottom and the blue top. Ever since then I'll typically just use the airbrush for most trim color work, unless it's a significantly large area.
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Yeah, I use the Badger model 250 Spray Gun. Works great.
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Now its the fun stage. I have it in read and white. I will start applying black checks to the LE today. Tomorrow I will head to the sign shop for stencels.
This airplane is not a month old yet. Its 23 days old and should be in the air under 30 days.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125594;image)
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I like it. Nice layout for the red.
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Cool! Cool! Cool!
Marcus
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Looks good Robert,,
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I should have reversed masked the swoop for the nose. But I will have to overlay it.
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I should have reversed masked the swoop for the nose. But I will have to overlay it.
Huh?
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Huh?
Can't explain it but you will get the drift when I paint it.
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This will give you a idea of where I am headed with the paint job.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125632;image)
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looks like you are pulling some elements from Viper 8 (?) perhaps
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looks like you are pulling some elements from Viper 8 (?) perhaps
Yep. I always liked that paint job.
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Only looking better and better!!
Marcus
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Lookin good Sparky,How long do you let the finish dry before you mask for the next color??I buy 3M tape products.I just aint sure how long to wait.Trax
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Lookin good Sparky,How long do you let the finish dry before you mask for the next color??I buy 3M tape products.I just aint sure how long to wait.Trax
I use 3 M as well. I don't wait long I will tell you that. 15-30 min tops. Results vary on paint and temp. Its kind of a trial and error thing. I cant really tell you how long.
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Went to the sign shop and got my paint masks.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125684;image)
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This will give you a idea of where I am headed with the paint job.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125632;image)
I'm lovin' it!
I would trade with you Doug. I am laid off. So to keep busy I build.
Yech. I was assuming you were enjoying a well-earned retirement. Good luck with the job search.
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What sign shop did you use and how much did they charge you for that sheet of stencils?
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I bought the roll of low tack masking vinyl several years ago and I keep it here at home. They charge me 20.00 to use their plotter and tape machine. I do all the work. Its a small town shop 3 guys work there. Signorama or something like that. Any shop with a cutter can do the job. Take them your .dxf file and let them load it.
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almost done
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Lookin good Sparky! 8)
Derek
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That is a beauty!!
I love how you painted those wings!!
Mind if I express a personal opinion?
You could add some color or graphics to the nose, just to break the red color.
But like I said, it's just my "taste"...
I wish one day I could produce such a finishing....
Marcus
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That is a beauty!!
I love how you painted those wings!!
Mind if I express a personal opinion?
You could add some color or graphics to the nose, just to break the red color.
But like I said, it's just my "taste"...
I wish one day I could produce such a finishing....
Marcus
Anyone can do what I do. Please remember I have over 50 years experince.
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LOOKING GOOD!!
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Ink and clear and a few more stripes and we are ready in under 30 days.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125784;image)
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The yellow on the tail highlights the entire ship.
Way cool Robert!!
Marcus
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Needs some red or something on the stab/elevator.
Just a "two cents"... y1
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Needs some red or something on the stab/elevator.
Just a "two cents"... y1
3 cents change. INK
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WOW!!
Looks great!!
Surprised me with the canopy outline.
I'm sure there will be other additions.
Multi Kudos!!
Charles
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3 cents change. INK
10-4, kinda what I figured, ink is lighter. ;D
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A yellow lightening bolt or a "sparky" type logo on each side of the nose. Looks nice Bob.
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Ready Kilowatt y1 y1 y1
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All thats left is ink and clear. The total project time spent so far is 26 days. I hope this flies as good as it looks. Weight at this point is 56.5 oz.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125857;image)
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Less than 30 days...all I can say is WOW! :o
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Its all inked up and ready to clear in less than a month. Crist uses Steadliner pens so yesterday I went to artmart to see if I could find those. They didn't carry them or at least had discontinued carrying them. So they sold me the equivalent which is Micron. I was doing this out of laziness in not wanting to clean my Radiograph pens. When I got home with it I chickened out and gave in and cleaned them up. At this stage I didn't want to make a mistake and ruin a months work. So it was back to old school.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125924;image)
Now before anyone chimes in with it needs this or that, if you would like to come here and do it I am up for it. Part of appearance points are given on mistakes. I learned this by seeing very plane airplanes on the front row. Very plane equals less chance for error. So If I make it clean and fairly shinny it should do well at the NATS. If it flies good and I can fly it.
If not it flies as is except with clear. As it sits now with wingtip weight its 58.1 so I am looking at 59 oz. 4 ounces off my mark. I am not sure if I would have taken more time in the finish if I could loose those 4 ounces and even if it would mater. The most important part of this experiment is the weight in the tips. The beam wing has considerably less weight in the tips when you roll the plane side to side.
Given today's wood and finishing requirements I am not sure its possible to archive a fully fueled large stunt plane in the low to mid 50TYS. The first Crossfire at 60 flies very well and has a great turn. The second one with more wing area and less wright should be great.
Trust me it looks better in person. For some reason the camera is not showing the true red color.
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Robert,
It's fine.
IMHO, I agree, it's time to stop now.
You nailed it!
Any additions will take away from what you already have.
Inspiring to say the least. Inspiration that creates motiavation.
Thanks for sharing all of that.
Your methods, remarkable!
Finished product, "Outstanding!!"
Charles
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I have learned so much...
Man, it looks so clean and the paintjob flows over the model.
After seeing those pics, I feel like building....
Marcus
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My next airplane is is on the board in my head. I will be doing a jet style just like the crossfire. The reason this plan form appeals to me is the topload battery. It also allows for adjustment of horizontal center of gravity. The beam appeals to me for exact alignment and weight at the tips. I always have like taped trailing edges. Two reasons it looks more realistic and you can move the center of gravity forward. On the next plane I will use a Junar Airfoil. The thinner airfoil means it has to be light. Keeping in line with the Jet look I will use Flight Streak- SV swept back wing tips.
I am not sure if I will speed build to have 3 ready for the NATS but it should be ready by end of summer.
(http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31150.0;attach=125926;image)
The numbers for tail and nose should be close to this one 17.25 and 11.5. If you look at this picture the beam wing allows for a lot of fore and aft battery adjustment. This means no added weight to get it to balance.
I thought I would mention this for the disbelievers. If you think the quality has to be low because of the speed of this build you will see it at the NATS. The only thing it will not have is a Urethane finish as my usual ones do.
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Robert,
Looking forward to your next build.
Your images aren't JPEGS?
How are you holding your hatch in place?
Colors look good to me!
Charles
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Robert,
Looking forward to your next build.
Your images aren't JPEGS?
How are you holding your hatch in place?
Colors look good to me!
Charles
Images are PNG they are more compressed than a JPG. The hatch is held in place by 2 earth magnets and aligned by 4 Popsicle stick ends.
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If you know what you are doing, quality work can be done. The plane looks great. I remember trying to replace a window on the house. After spending most of the day on it a construction worker who builds houses came over and took over. Less than an hour and he was done and it looked better than the other windows of the house. And I think Sparky stated that work management is what get a lot of things done in short time.
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Hi Robert, congrats for your wonderful work! I would like to take a look at the battery/engine bay.... can you send some pics from other angles????
Rodrigo Mansano
Brazil
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Hi Robert, congrats for your wonderful work! I would like to take a look at the battery/engine bay.... can you send some pics from other angles????
Rodrigo Mansano
Brazil
I might paint the inside black
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Robert, thanks a lot for the fastttt answer! Wonderful ideas for a electric instalation! Very clean!!! Itīs not a mess like my model!
Rodrigo Mansano
Brazil
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The way this is mounted you can move the battery up or down back and forth. Right now I am making a second holder for both planes for the zippy batteries.
It's raining so no painting. I might as well do all my electrical work today. I need to make up a second power supply for my charger and I will do that today as well.
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Robert, can you tell more, educate me about the process you use to know when the horizontal cg is ok?
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Assuming the wing is straight and is in trim. If the plane flies outboard wing high upright and inverted the horizontal CG is too low and the same can be said the other way. If its down upright and inverted its too high.
All the math in the world can't tell you what each plane is going to be. So its always a trim experiment. Asymmetry and wing tip weight are only to compensate for the weight of the lines. Let the fire begin. f~ j1
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Think I know why you wrote about starting a fire, but not sure...
Our C/L models are not easy to trim.... Do you use some kind of static process to try so check the horizontal CG?
Thanks!
Rodrigo
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Think I know why you wrote about starting a fire, but not sure...
Our C/L models are not easy to trim.... Do you use some kind of static process to try so check the horizontal CG?
Thanks!
Rodrigo
No static process. I just guess and go fly. I know that the piped airplanes had some trim issues because of the pipe hanging under the wing so they lowered the leadouts. So I just eyeball what I think will work and go fly. It's usually pretty close. This all has more to do with thrust line placement. The reason I said start a fire is the designers will come on and say I am wrong and prove it with some math equation not many have a clue as to what it is and in the end it works out my way anyway. You can build 2 planes exactly alike and trim them alike but they won't fly alike. Do you know why? It's because of how the balsa grew and how and time of day the paint was put on and a 100 other diffrent variables.
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Remember a few years ago of all the pictures of planes and similated planes hanging from doorways, walls or even ceilings trying to show us how planes should be rigged. Sparky has been around the horn on this and knows what he is doing.
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Assuming the wing is straight and is in trim. If the plane flies outboard wing high upright and inverted the horizontal CG is too low...
Do you mean what you seem to have said? Namely, that if the CG is too far off center toward the wheels, that the airplane will fly with the outside wing tip too far from the ground when the airplane is inverted?
Remember a few years ago of all the pictures of planes and similated planes hanging from doorways, walls or even ceilings trying to show us how planes should be rigged.
Do you mean the pictures I posted as a joke of the airplane with the lead hidden behind the stab? The reason I did that was that people were arguing, based only on their intuition, about something that could have been settled by a simple experiment. Nobody did the experiment, so I did a phony one out of orneriness.
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Do you mean what you seem to have said? Namely, that if the CG is too far off center toward the wheels, that the airplane will fly with the outside wing tip too far from the ground when the airplane is inverted?
When the horizontal CG is too high in the upright flying postion the wing will be down on the outboard tip. The outboard tip will be up inverted. Just reverse the actions for too low a CG.
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Is this not actually "Vertical" CG ?