Author Topic: Thinner: Randolph Butyrate & Brodak Butyrate (Read 2757 times)

Dan Bregar · « **on:** May 12, 2012, 02:44:43 PM »

Hey guys. Can I use Randolph Butyrate Dope with Brodak Butyrate thinner. And can I use Brodak Butyrate Dope with Randolph Butyrate thinner with out problems. I think it should be OK, but thought I would check it out before proceeding.

Paul Smith · « **Reply #1 on:** May 12, 2012, 03:18:45 PM »

That's always worked for me.
Brodak is a Randolph dealer.
Randolph also sells "Certified" which is a less expensive (who can call $18 a gallon cheaper?) thinner.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #2 on:** May 12, 2012, 04:36:44 PM »

Ty
I thought so, just wasn't sure the thinner was the same.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #3 on:** May 12, 2012, 07:34:06 PM »

On the rocks, with a twist of lime ?

Randy Powell · « **Reply #4 on:** May 12, 2012, 09:12:07 PM »

I've got both and I can say that they are not the same. But I would imagine that using the thinner should be fine as long as you stick with the same thinner throughout. I've used all kinds of things, but usually only run into problems if I change thinner in mid-finish. That's usually asking for it.

Ty Marcucci · « **Reply #5 on:** May 13, 2012, 08:36:13 AM »

larry borden · « **Reply #6 on:** May 13, 2012, 08:47:47 AM »

I use DuPont 3608S for all dopes. Works on both nitrate and butyrate and is easier to get. I call Finishmasters and the next day it's there.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #7 on:** May 13, 2012, 09:02:24 AM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on May 12, 2012, 09:12:07 PM

I've got both and I can say that they are not the same. But I would imagine that using the thinner should be fine as long as you stick with the same thinner throughout. I've used all kinds of things, but usually only run into problems if I change thinner in mid-finish. That's usually asking for it.

Randy

That's my original question. I got a quart of Brodak thinner that I'm using with Brodak clear & primer. Then I have a quart of Randolph thinner that I will use with Randolph colors. You are saying the thinners are different. Am I looking for trouble here ?

larry borden · « **Reply #8 on:** May 13, 2012, 09:37:14 PM »

There is a butyrate thinner and a nitrate thinner. I think I was told you can use the butyrate thinner in nitrate but not nitrate thinner in butyrate.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2012, 04:37:34 AM »

Both are butyrate as stated earlier.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #10 on:** May 14, 2012, 01:45:27 PM »

Quote from: larry borden on May 13, 2012, 08:47:47 AM

I use DuPont 3608S for all dopes. Works on both nitrate and butyrate and is easier to get. I call Finishmasters and the next day it's there.

Can you provide link for website ? Cant seem to find them.
You paying hazmat charges to ship gallons of thinner ?

steven yampolsky · « **Reply #11 on:** May 14, 2012, 02:36:03 PM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on May 14, 2012, 01:45:27 PM

Can you provide link for website ? Cant seem to find them.
You paying hazmat charges to ship gallons of thinner ?

The company is based in California, if I am not mistaken. Shipping to LA will be very costly due hazmat charges. Best bet is to try a local automotive supplies stores. Have you tried "Auto World Supply"(985-646-2222)? There is also the "Bayou Auto Color & Supply" on Kingspoint boulevard but they don't carry Dupont products.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #12 on:** May 14, 2012, 02:40:24 PM »

On the dog I'm currently building, I started with Randolph tautening dope with Brodak thinner on the open bays and Brodak dope with Brodak thinner on the woody parts, then went to Randolph nontautening dope and Brodak thinner on the woody parts after the Brodak dope went bad. Then I switched to Randolph thinner after I ran out of Brodak thinner. It all worked, except when I got too much talc in the filler or put it on too thick and got the gator scale effect. This was fixed by sandpaper.

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #13 on:** May 14, 2012, 02:49:19 PM »

Howard, how did the Brodak dope go bad?

Howard Rush · « **Reply #14 on:** May 14, 2012, 04:03:35 PM »

Quote from: Dick Pacini on May 14, 2012, 02:49:19 PM

Howard, how did the Brodak dope go bad?

I left the can in the shed, and it rusted.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #15 on:** May 14, 2012, 04:19:07 PM »

Ty,

I've got a can of Brodak's and a can of Randolph's non-taunting. The Randolph's is quite a lot thicker (more like maple syrup) and has quite a lot more solids in it that the Brodak's. I would imagine that they are largely the same material, overall, but clearly have some differences. But I doubt is matters much.

I can say from experience that you are taking a chance if you change thinners in the middle of a finish. Might come out OK, might not. I do know that you narrow the window in which the stuff is likely to work OK. But hey, do what you want. I know guys that use cheap lacquer thinner from Home Depot in Sig. And it sometimes works fine. When it doesn't (and when it doesn't, it tends to really not work) they complain about the paint. Oh well, you pays your money and takes your chances. I just want to weight stuff my direction as much as I can. Using the same thinner all the way up is one less thing to go wrong.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #16 on:** May 14, 2012, 04:19:39 PM »

Quote from: Howard Rush on May 14, 2012, 04:03:35 PM

I left the can in the shed, and it rusted.

Yeppp that will do it

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #17 on:** May 14, 2012, 04:52:13 PM »

Howard

The process you described is about what mine will be. If I have a problem I can blame Uncle Howard can't I ?

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #18 on:** May 14, 2012, 05:02:05 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on May 14, 2012, 04:19:07 PM

Ty,

I've got a can of Brodak's and a can of Randolph's non-taunting. The Randolph's is quite a lot thicker (more like maple syrup) and has quite a lot more solids in it that the Brodak's. I would imagine that they are largely the same material, overall, but clearly have some differences. But I doubt is matters much.

Randy

You described the differences between the two dope products. But earlier you said that the thinners were different also. Could you comment on what the differences in the two brands of thinner appear to be. $:-\$

Dan

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #19 on:** May 14, 2012, 05:46:59 PM »

TY

I bet you are correct in this, about the thinner being the same. I hope so anyway. Thanks for your input on this. Now get off the computer and go build three or four more airplanes.

Dan

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #20 on:** May 14, 2012, 07:07:02 PM »

Quote from: Ty Marcucci on May 14, 2012, 05:39:14 PM

In one of Windy Urtnowskis videos, he is shown using Brodak dope, which he helped develop for Brodaks. It is Randolphs but thinned out for the modeler that uses brushes. From what I understand this is about the only difference. The thinner is the same.
I use Randolphs and Brodaks interchangeably only because of this. The only problem I have ever had was due to me not filling the "weave" fully on carbon fiber, pin holes developed and this has nothing to do with either dope.

I won't go into the time I used some "old" style Aero Gloss. Yuk. I was given 6, 4 oz bottles of red and yellow. I learned to dump the dope, clean out the bottles, thouroughly, and use them for small amounts of left over for repairs.

I am in no way an expert on this and might never reach the pinnacle of your ability to paint so very well, but I do know what I have expereinced.

Ty

You mentioned filling the weave on carbon tissue. I just covered over it with 00 silkspan doped on. That should do it don't you think ? $:-\$

Dan

Howard Rush · « **Reply #21 on:** May 14, 2012, 09:13:25 PM »

Quote from: Dan Bregar on May 14, 2012, 07:07:02 PM

I just covered over it with 00 silkspan doped on.

Instead of the carbon? That sounds good to me.

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #22 on:** May 15, 2012, 04:13:00 AM »

Howard

I put the 00 silkspan over the carbon tissue on a profile fuselage. Instead of having to fill the weave with filler. Not sure about the weight difference between the two methods, but the silkspan over the carbon tissue sure made it much stiffer (stronger). Should only need a few coates of clear to seal the silkspan, then ready to primer.

larry borden · « **Reply #23 on:** May 15, 2012, 07:20:21 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on May 14, 2012, 01:45:27 PM

Can you provide link for website ? Cant seem to find them.
You paying hazmat charges to ship gallons of thinner ?

They keep it in stock and I pick it up the next day as it comes from their Arlington location. I pick it up from the Fort Worth store. Hazmat charges are probably in the price.
http://www.finishmaster.com/locations.cfm

Jim Hoffman · « **Reply #24 on:** May 26, 2012, 09:09:30 AM »

I have had success covering carbon surface w/ 00 silkspan. It adds mores stiffness and certainly reduces the time and effort to fill. The weight difference is essentially zero.

Jim Hoffman

Dan Bregar · « **Reply #25 on:** May 26, 2012, 12:00:20 PM »

Quote from: Jim Hoffman on May 26, 2012, 09:09:30 AM

I have had success covering carbon surface w/ 00 silkspan. It adds mores stiffness and certainly reduces the time and effort to fill. The weight difference is essentially zero.

Jim Hoffman

Jim

My experience so far is as you say.

Author Topic: Thinner: Randolph Butyrate & Brodak Butyrate (Read 2757 times)

larry borden

larry borden

steven yampolsky

larry borden