Hey Guys,
 New to the group here and have a question. Has anyone had any experience with using stits ( I.E. poly-tak, poly-brush, poly-tone) with polyspan covering? Looking to replicate the look of doped silkspan, and I have a literal ton of stits chemicals from my full-size hobby. I used sig koverall on the last build but id like to have the paper and not fabric weave. I did a small test frame and it worked well, just looking for anybody else's long term experience. Thanks!

Shouldn't be much different than dope right? At least in the full size world the weight different between Ceconite vs Stits ( Dope vs vinyl ) is pretty much zilch. I know its a tad heavier than plastic film, but I can afford an extra half ounce. Polyspan with dope has been holding up pretty well according to reports from others, but I just hate having to buy dope when I have gallons of left over stits material to use up. Call me frugal haha.

Thats the plan. I want to still see the weave of the covering material and not bury it in paint. 

  I don't think polyspan is a woven material, there is no weave to see, unless we are talking about two different things.

    Brett

Hey Guys,
 New to the group here and have a question. Has anyone had any experience with using stits ( I.E. poly-tak, poly-brush, poly-tone) with polyspan covering? Looking to replicate the look of doped silkspan, and I have a literal ton of stits chemicals from my full-size hobby. I used sig koverall on the last build but id like to have the paper and not fabric weave. I did a small test frame and it worked well, just looking for anybody else's long term experience. Thanks!

Poly-Tone is not fuel proof or even fuel resistant.  On full-scale airplanes it takes on the color of the dye in 100 LL fuel.  On our models it would not be satisfactory with IC engines.  If you are flying electric I'd say go for it; Poly-Fiber (Stits) process is easy to use and has long life and does not shrink which is good with Polyspan or other coverings that are heat shrunk and do not need further shrinking.

It may not be fuel proof with anything over 20%, but I have had no issues with it and sport fuel for the last 20 years I have used it. I just haven't used it with the polyspan before, just fabric.

On second thought, there was an issue I had once, but that was before I mixed my own fuel. The pre-mixed fuel had acetone in it.....and that will soften many coatings, as well as wreck fuel tubing etc.

   I would very strongly suggest that you at least consider Bill's advice, he is a professional. But, up to you, of course.

    Brett

Having worked with all of the above, I would go for it. The dye in aviation grade fuel will stain about anything and our nitro fuels can damage many finishes and glues. I keep a small bottle of pure Nitro on my work bench to clean up CA glue that has gotten on places I don't want it to, like my shirt. The key is not getting raw fuel in places where it can cause harm, the burned fuel is basically just oil. If you're worried about it just go test your fuel on one of the spots in your hangar where you dripped some Poly Tone, my hangar has plenty  of opportunities for that.. I'm a fan of the Ceconite process myself but that is more nostalgic than anything else as I like tinted clear finishes.