He means red over black. Whatever is used for an undercoat and becomes a block for other colors bleeding through. That's why it's often called a "blocking coat".
Obviously a black undercoat will yield a darker top coat. With modern two-stage polyurethanes the problem isn't nearly as bad, as in nearly nonexistent. The only reason I haven't switched to it is because I have a fairly large supply of Randolph dope to use up.
Mike,
You wouldn't have any problem selling your dope then you could start using an auto base coat clear coat system.
Tons of guys probably are they just don't broadcast or they don't Post.
I was an early starter with using auto base coat clear coat systems on my models.
I painted this pattern ship back in the early 80's. I bet I get plenty of compliments.
Lets see, scratch built, sheeted foam wings, I even cut the foam cores, glass cloth covered, and finished with all auto paints.
Hand applied 23K gold leaf lettering, shadowed and outlined with One-Shot sign painter's enamel. British graphics are Don's brushing lacquers.
Lots of work and worth every bit of it.
My Avenger was the people's choice award for "Best Finish" at the WRAM show. Over the years I must have painted a couple of dozen models using all automotive products.
Now I just use aerosol cans and sometimes an air brush using plastic modeler's water base paints. I always clear with a 2K auto paint, in an aerosol can.
It's the easy way out but it gets the job done. I do Sport anyway.
Here's the model.
I'm sure it will be well received.
Charles
Anyway, for those that have never seen this photo, and my guess there's plenty,
The Avenger,