Cheapest would be to buy the decal kit from Micro-Mark and make your own. You can either have clear or white but not both on the same decal. Not sure what a print shop would charge for stickers, ones I have seen done by local print shops were low quality and not fuel proof.

Only thing you can put over rustoleum is polyurethane and I haven't found one that was fuel proof that didn't turn yellow over white.

I would mask it and paint it on.

Edit: Might check with a local sign shop, they can usually cut you paint masks that would be much better than decals.

Hi Tim,

See if you can find an ALPS 5000. They are discontinued, so ebay is about the only source.   Microscale sells the decal paper to use in it, and it is "laser paper".  Then make sure you have all the color cartridges you need for at least the decal you are going to print first.  The 5000 carries 7 cartridges at a time (one slot has to be open so the printer can "exchange" carts. while it's printing.  You will need to have some fairly recent coreldraw program (and learn how to use it if you don't already) to make your artwork.  Make your color "layers", and use the "single ink" function to underlay all the decal with white as the first layer.  All the images on that layer (1st one) will need t be any color that the printer can "see'.  It cannot "see" white.  Then print each layer. As you hit "print", go to the settings and use "overlay" under the the selections.  Other wise, the printer will spit the paper out when it prints and you can never get it to register correctly again.  There is a "project manager" feature which will automatically go from layer to layer, but i have never used it.  The ALPS 5000 is the "sharpest" printer you can get.  It prints at 2400dpi dots per inch).   Also, use "cardboard" (not "laser paper") for the setting when you go to print.  Otherwise you will burn up the anti curl motor.  Done correctly, you can print an object that is totally clear that you will need an optivisor to read any lettering.  Oh, yeah, you will need to use a Windows 98 or older system.  There are no drivers available for newer operating systems.  But then there is no other printer under a couple thousand dollars that will actually print "WHITE".  The are very fragile printers, but I have taken care of mine, been very cautious and it is getting pretty old.  The printer alone usually goes for around $300 last time I checked, as long as it's a working one.  No service available in North America anymore.

What Wayne said...highly recommended. 

You can make your own decals by going to www.testors.com then search decal paper. They have decal paper that is 5.5"x8.5" for your inkjet printer and follow their instructions.

You are right!  For a design as simple as Tim's that would be the way to go if he just wants a waterslide decal.  For a decal to be used on a scale entry for the World's, where a high degree of detail would be needed, a "vector" art program would be needed to insure crisp lines and readable text down to the "optivisor level".  "Raster" programs, which many art programs are, will pixelate, or become fuzzy, when the size is altered, way to easily.  Vector is a math based program, whereas raster is more of a "copy" program.  The dpi capability of the printer is also a limiting factor.  I'm involved in another hobby where this is highly noticeable.

The main thing holding me back from looking into the water slide decals is not knowing what I can use over them that will protect them from exhaust, but will not eat Rustoleum.

Do you know what I should be looking at?

I use a CAD program to design my planes, so the decal I make will be made on CAD. Thanks for the tip about the raster programs. I didn't think about the pixelating, thanks.

Sorry I missed getting back to you here Bill. I guess I don't know for sure, but I think they only do vinyl work.

 I suppose I should be talking "stickers", which would mean vinyl, and "decals", which would mean waterslide. I know Jim and Emily can do most stickers.

Thanks, Wayne.  The project is a ways off, and I might just pop for some cartridges for the APLS and do the artwork.  It is very complicated and the local sign shop can't do anything with it.  Too many small (tiny for them! LOL!!) details for their cutter to make.  It is the profile view of an Indian Chief's head in full war bonnet.  I have a 1/72 scale decal to trace over.

Bill

I know it's been some time, but I just came on board. I actually have this graphic. I don't even remember why.

I can make it in vinyl only or mask.

I had sent you the file, but you never sent me a quote.  I think you must have gotten busy.

I didn't push things for one because various things happened, not least of which was my entire customer base dried up for several months, which meant that I was spending no money on non-essential stuff.  That, and enough crashes to bring the appearance down from "reasonably well executed profile" to "scruffy profile" meant that just printing the logo out on printer paper, cutting it out and taping it on with shipping tape, worked pretty well.  It gave me an idea of how the thing would look if it had a "real" decal on it, it looked just fine from ten feet away, and I didn't have to spend a dime.

Since business picked up again I've bought some of the water slide decal paper and I've been experimenting with that -- I think it'll be great for small, intricate stuff, but I'll be keeping vinyl in mind for big, simple things.

I'm kinda remembering, Did I mention the yellow should be outlined? The whole thing should be outlined.

What size did you want them?

I don't need them, now -- the plane has met its end, and I haven't decided yet whether to build another one or build something else.  It was a great beginner's plane, because it's aerodynamic shortcomings were masked by my flying problems.  But I'm a better flyer now, and need a plane that I can grow into instead of out of.  I'd have to modify the plane even more from the scale prototype to make it more like the typical stunter.

I'll let you know if the project comes live again, though.