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Author Topic: Spray can help please  (Read 3193 times)

Offline mccoy40

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Spray can help please
« on: October 12, 2021, 08:44:21 AM »
All,

I just did a second coat of Krylon Colormax Paint and Primer (gloss sun yellow) after having painted with it last night.
 The surface was dry to the touch and I wanted to fix a few spots that were a little thin.
Sprayed this morning and the paint crinkled up as soon as I sprayed. Almost as if it was the wrong combinations of paints.

It was the same can!  I don't get this?!  has anyone seen similar results/ situation?   ???   HB~>

The plane was covered with doctors paper and thinned white glue to start with before spraying
Joseph Meyer
Philadelphia, PA

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2021, 10:19:01 AM »
Mc,
Krylon has changed all its spray paint to acrylic enamel the same as Rustoleum. You need recoat within 6 - 8 minutes or wait at least 48 hours before recoating. For the situation you have now you need to let it gas-off like a week, then wet sand out the crinkles. Get it down to the primer as much as you can. You then give it a light coat followed in a few minutes by the wet coat. This should do it.

Best,    DennisT

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2021, 11:17:47 AM »
Mc,
Krylon has changed all its spray paint to acrylic enamel the same as Rustoleum. You need recoat within 6 - 8 minutes or wait at least 48 hours before recoating. For the situation you have now you need to let it gas-off like a week, then wet sand out the crinkles. Get it down to the primer as much as you can. You then give it a light coat followed in a few minutes by the wet coat. This should do it.

Best,    DennisT

I think you can put coats over coats or colors over colors within 4 hours? I don't have a can hanging around to read to be sure. After 4 hours possibly 24 hours I kinda remember is the waiting time before ​another coat can be applied. I don't believe it's 48 because this number doesn't ring a bell.  n~

Serious, extremely wet coats could cause other issues. I avoid this at all costs.

Krylon is not fuel proof and a fuel proof clear must be applied, so why use a "gloss paint?"

Reading the directions is always a winner if in doubt.  ;D

I'm not sure about this, but I believe the Duplicolor perfect match paints in aerosol cans is lacquer. This would eliminate the waiting period. I've never used Duplicolor on my models but I did do a touch up on a wheel rim once. It went on nicely.

I use the Krylon cans on all my models, satin or flat only, never gloss, applying no more than needed knowing I will apply a fuel proof top coat.

Charles
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Offline mccoy40

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2021, 06:15:14 AM »
Dennis,

Thanks! I will wait til next week and then re-apply - I'll sand it smooth first of course down to the primer.

Aviojet,

Thanks as well. I thought the krylon was fuel proof. I have some older planes that were covered in Krylon and they seem to hold up pretty well. Probably that paint is pre -change in formula.

I'll add a fuel proof clear to the plane once I  get past this issue.    H^^
Joseph Meyer
Philadelphia, PA

Offline Perry Rose

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2021, 06:57:51 AM »
I have re coated after a year and the paint wrinkled. Spray cans of any brand are a pain. I have found that all the coats have to be applied within an hour at most. The clear can't be appplied unless it's a one color scheme. And it only wrinkles on the plane not the test panel. Also the heaviest areas wrinkle. I've had good luck with Dupli-Color engine colors.
I may be wrong but I doubt it.
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2021, 08:40:57 AM »
I have re coated after a year and the paint wrinkled. Spray cans of any brand are a pain. I have found that all the coats have to be applied within an hour at most. The clear can't be appplied unless it's a one color scheme. And it only wrinkles on the plane not the test panel. Also the heaviest areas wrinkle. I've had good luck with Dupli-Color engine colors.

Perry,

I can't understand your comments? None of which I've experienced? As I've been saying for almost 10 years, I achieve great success with Krylon "satin only" aerosol cans. Not only do I explain in detail with Builds, but I post photos of the results all the time just to prove how well Krylon aerosol cans work. There's a Build and painting Build on all these models. Is this called "proof of the pudding?"  ;D

I'm not in this forum to Post false information or to degrade someone's finishing methods.

EVERY ONE OF THESE MODELS WAS PAINTED WITH AEROSOL CANS!! If I can design, build and finish a model to these standards, so can anyone else. Well almost.   LL~

Thank you for giving me to opportunity to show what can be accomplished with Krylon aerosol cans. And remember what Willie Moore said about my finishing to reply to pointless "trolling."

« on: November 03, 2017, 06:29:12 AM »
I was at the flying field yesterday, and guess what, Charles showed up with his ARGO 2.  His graphics were flawless ( because he is an expert master graphic artist), and the airplane was incredibly beautifully finished.

Local BOM contests would judge it near perfect.  NATS maybe 2nd or 3rd row. I’m not kidding. When Charles told me it was a quick job, I wondered what perfection would be like. When he told me he painted it outside, in Florida,
With rattle can paint,  I almost couldn’t get my head wrapped around it.  So I looked up this post, so I could mention what I saw.  No drips, no bugs, no errors. Finish wasn’t even compounded out.

Some comments have been made about whether it can fly or not, or whether Charles can fly it or not.  Well, I know it can fly, and I know I could put it through the pattern with respect. It has a T Bird wing, and moments. So the design parameters are modern enough. Can Charles put it through the pattern? Does it matter? That’s not what this hobby/sport is all about. Charles loves to build. You can plainly see it in his creations. I love to fly. (And Charles told me I’m off my game, a bit, LOL ).  I can’t build and paint like Charles does. I get too impatient. So what.  Credit should be given where credit is due. And then, leave the rest alone.  It’s a hobby, for goodness sakes. Enjoy!

I said this before and I'll say this again, Anyone needing advice with the use of Krylon aerosol cans, I'll be glad to help.

Charles
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Offline mccoy40

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2021, 12:40:11 PM »
ALL,

Yay!!  I was able to re-spray after about 8 days.  y1  There wasn't any crinkles etc. and the paint applied well. I am now waiting for another week or more to apply trim colors.

I'll post on how that will work when it happens.


I've used Gloss on this plane and I haven't seen any issues yet. I did the same thing to a plane I finished earlier this year. I took the plane out last weekend and put up three flights plus a couple of engine start/checks. It appears to be fuel proof. No stickiness or shedding of the paint so far.    ;)
I'll keep you posted on that as well.

Thanks Charles for pointing out the Satin is fuel proof.     H^^
Joseph Meyer
Philadelphia, PA

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2021, 01:00:18 PM »
ALL,

Yay!!  I was able to re-spray after about 8 days.  y1  There wasn't any crinkles etc. and the paint applied well. I am now waiting for another week or more to apply trim colors.

I'll post on how that will work when it happens.


I've used Gloss on this plane and I haven't seen any issues yet. I did the same thing to a plane I finished earlier this year. I took the plane out last weekend and put up three flights plus a couple of engine start/checks. It appears to be fuel proof. No stickiness or shedding of the paint so far.    ;)
I'll keep you posted on that as well.

Thanks Charles for pointing out the Satin is fuel proof.     H^^

   Where does he say that the satin is fuel proof? In his one answer he specifically states that it is NOT fuel proof and requires two part clear.  Not hat he would know since he has never fueled or flown them.

   Type at you later,
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« Last Edit: October 24, 2021, 09:59:00 AM by Dan McEntee »
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Offline mccoy40

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2021, 06:36:03 AM »
Dan,

Sorry - didn't mean to give offense. I read this in the post above. 

"Perry,

I can't understand your comments? None of which I've experienced? As I've been saying for almost 10 years, I achieve great success with Krylon "satin only" aerosol cans. Not only do I explain in detail with Builds, but I post photos of the results all the time just to prove how well Krylon aerosol cans work.



I will say this, that so far I've got two models that have been painted with the spray can enamel and both have held up to the fuel I'm using. I'm using S&W fuel with 25% mix of castor and synthetic for lubricant and 10% nitro. One has 4 flights on it - the other has about twenty. It could be that degradation may come once I get more  time on the planes.

Both planes sat for a long time before they saw fuel. The latest was flown 8 months after I finished it
Joseph Meyer
Philadelphia, PA

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2021, 10:20:24 AM »
Dan,

Sorry - didn't mean to give offense. I read this in the post above. 

"Perry,

I can't understand your comments? None of which I've experienced? As I've been saying for almost 10 years, I achieve great success with Krylon "satin only" aerosol cans. Not only do I explain in detail with Builds, but I post photos of the results all the time just to prove how well Krylon aerosol cans work.



I will say this, that so far I've got two models that have been painted with the spray can enamel and both have held up to the fuel I'm using. I'm using S&W fuel with 25% mix of castor and synthetic for lubricant and 10% nitro. One has 4 flights on it - the other has about twenty. It could be that degradation may come once I get more  time on the planes.

Both planes sat for a long time before they saw fuel. The latest was flown 8 months after I finished it

   No offense taken on my part, but there is nothing in that quote from Chucky that indicates that satin is fuel proof. It just says he has "had great success" with satin, what ever that means, as he has never fueled the models nor flown them. You can't claim it is fuel proof if you have never fueled the airplane and tested it in flight. I also pointed out in his other post where he states that Krylon is NOT fuel proof and requires two part clear to protect the finish. He never does specify why he uses satin finish, does he?? Satin and flat finishes tend to recoat easier because the surface is naturally more rough, it's that simple. If you want a glossy finish you will need to put clear on it and buff it out. This is where problems start with mixing too many types of different products. All that most of us want is a nice, decent finish and a model that performs well. We all tend to crash now and then and models need to be repaired, and that is another place where problems arise. For people wanted quick and easy finishes I point towards the system the late Allen Brickhaus used and detailed in several of his articles. He mentions what rattle can paints he used and why and described the whole process in detail. This was generally for fuselages only and was used with iron on wing coverings, but if care was used it could be used on a dope base on an open bay wing. If you have a system and process that works for you, by all means stick with it if it gives you the results you want and makes you happy. There is no such thing as a shine in a can or an easy way to a front row/20 point finish. Charles has never presented a model for judging at the NATS and there is no way he can make that claim that his are capable of it until he does, and there is no way he can make claims about how his finish performance is in flight and in use until they see fuel and some kind of reasonable use. He might as well paint them with Glidden House Paint!
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2021, 11:35:50 AM »
I think C has said in prior post that the satin is easy to work with (as in sprays nice, no runs) but it does require clear fuel proofing. He has used Max 2K rattle can for this and so have I, it is totally fuel proof (I have also used it over water-based acrylic and its fine).

Best,    DennisT

Offline kevin king

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2021, 03:23:56 AM »
The issue I have with spray cans is its difficult to put the FLEX ALL in the cans. Building an airplane is a very time consuming endeavour, so I like to stack the deck in my favor by using all dope and not have to worry about the paint splitting, cracking  or wrinkling a year or 5 years down the road. Unlike the steel panels on your car, our planes flex alot. Using paint products made for automobile engines and trunk lids on a balsa wood airplane? For me its just not worth the risk.

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #12 on: October 27, 2021, 12:05:25 PM »
The issue I have with spray cans is its difficult to put the FLEX ALL in the cans. Building an airplane is a very time consuming endeavour, so I like to stack the deck in my favor by using all dope and not have to worry about the paint splitting, cracking  or wrinkling a year or 5 years down the road. Unlike the steel panels on your car, our planes flex alot. Using paint products made for automobile engines and trunk lids on a balsa wood airplane? For me its just not worth the risk.

    BINGO!  If you crash a lot, it may be a different matter to make you airplanes more or less disposable. But even with that figured in, dope is easier to repair also.
  Type at you later,
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #13 on: October 27, 2021, 01:15:18 PM »
Kevin,
I understand your point on having put in a lot of time building and wanting to use time proven materials. I think that regular dope with the Max 2K clear coat is pretty bullet proof and light. I use the Preval Sprayer which allows adding flex-all, thinner and retarder as needed. The Preval system is inexpensive and give good coverage and for us short on time people is good for one ship and done.

I have recently use waterbase acrylic - Montana Color in spray can as a base coat. This material has no odor (wife likes this) and covers with one dust coat followed by a wet coat (like dope). It goes on flat (like auto basecoat) so a gloss top coat is needed. On my gram scale test, it weighs the same as equivalent coverage dope. I clear coat with Max 2K for glow ships. This is like the auto basecoat/clear coat except your color choice is limited to artist pallet colors so no Ferrari Red just five or six shades of red. 

Best,   DennisT

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #14 on: October 27, 2021, 03:19:28 PM »
The issue I have with spray cans is its difficult to put the FLEX ALL in the cans. Building an airplane is a very time consuming endeavour, so I like to stack the deck in my favor by using all dope and not have to worry about the paint splitting, cracking  or wrinkling a year or 5 years down the road. Unlike the steel panels on your car, our planes flex alot. Using paint products made for automobile engines and trunk lids on a balsa wood airplane? For me its just not worth the risk.

     Experimenting is always risky, and I have nothing particular against dope (aside from the fragility).  However, I would note that the last few 20-point airplanes at the NATs, and almost all of the recent  high finishers in appearance judging, have been using automotive colors and two- or three-part urethane clear, and it's a well-developed system at this point. It was all formulated to go on car hoods, but for our purposes, is far, far more durable than dope.

     I am always concerned when people use spray cans, because my experiences have been generally very poor, sometimes, some cans work great, other times, they don't work at all, and there seems to be next to no consistency from day to day or can to can. I wouldn't stop anybody from using what they are comfortable with, but you lose a lot of control the end result.

     Brett

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #15 on: October 28, 2021, 07:21:29 AM »
Kevin,
I agree that for most the front row finish ships are a lot more work than most of us have time for. One other product that I have used for a clear top coat is KBS Diamond Clear Coat in aerosol spray can ( https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear-aerosol.html) this is a one part clear (not death paint, but still wear a good paint mask), it holds up to glow fuel and gives a pretty good finish. As with any of these non-dope clears you give it a dust coat then a wet coat and not much more as it can get heavy it applied to thick. I use the spray can version which has a very long shelf life (had mine for over 6 months and it is fine). It is available in 4oz cans and pints to spray or brush but once the can is open the shelf life is only a couple weeks so don't by a large can and think is well stay for next year's ship.

Best,   DennisT

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2021, 11:24:58 AM »
I will take a guess since I've never been to the nats, that the concours winning planes were cut and polished.

     Yes, but even before that, the orange peel is not the issue - it's typically dust or other contamination. I have seen two twenty-pointers before they were cut, there was no significant orange peel.  It is not consequentially different from dope in that respect - it is a matter of skill of application. *Mine* has orange peel that needs cutting in places - Phil Granderson's doesn't, or at least not in any great degree. In my very limited experience 2-part urethane is *far* more forgiving than dope as far as this goes

    It's fine to like what you like, but I would suggest you reserve judgement on what other people do until you have tried it.

    Brett

     

   

Offline Ken Culbertson

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #17 on: October 28, 2021, 11:35:06 AM »
....KBS Diamond Clear Coat in aerosol spray can...
Would this Clear go over a satin finish and provide the same shine?  I have found satin and even flat canned spray goes on and covers in fewer coats than gloss.  It is also available in more colors/shades mostly than gloss.  Personally I would leave all of my creations satin if it weren't for the ridiculous appearance point interpretations we live with.   When did we drop the 4 category rule anyway?  I was off bolstering our defense contractors profits at the time.

ken
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Offline Brent Williams

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #18 on: October 28, 2021, 11:55:43 AM »
Some have advocated for KBS paint.  I will advocate strongly against it.  It did not react well to fuel at all in my csse.  It was applied over well cured butyrate.  A few drops of fuel made it immediately curdle and look terrible. 

Klass Kote or base/clear auto type paint is so superior to virtually any rattle can one-part paint that it isn't even worth discussion.  A cheap little compressor and an airbrush or cheap detail gun really aren't that costly. Look for deals or used for savings. You'll feel like tossing all the rattle cans in the trash after using good spray equipment.
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #19 on: October 28, 2021, 12:39:02 PM »
Would this Clear go over a satin finish and provide the same shine?  I have found satin and even flat canned spray goes on and covers in fewer coats than gloss.  It is also available in more colors/shades mostly than gloss.  Personally I would leave all of my creations satin if it weren't for the ridiculous appearance point interpretations we live with.

   Which ones are those? I am not aware of any such "interpretations".

     Brett

Offline Ken Culbertson

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #20 on: October 28, 2021, 02:40:21 PM »
   Which ones are those? I am not aware of any such "interpretations".

     Brett
You probably disagree, and that is fine, but it is the emphasis on shine I find ridiculous.  I can't find any definition of appearance in the rule book so I guess my use of "interpretation" is subject to interpretation itself but at least what I have experienced since coming back into the sport is that shine has become the most important factor.   With no objective criteria in the rules appearance becomes totally subjective. 

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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #21 on: October 31, 2021, 11:54:43 AM »
For base coat/clear coat what supplier has the product available at a reasonable price? Stuff I've seen on the web is very high priced.

Best,   DennisT

Offline George Truett

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #22 on: October 31, 2021, 04:37:16 PM »
Dennis, I would check first for a local autobody supply.  We have a Paint Masters here that's a good place to buy.  They have a house brand with colors at about $100 a gallon.  They also have a shelf of mismatched or not picked up colors, a quart is around $30 for Nason basecoat.  If you have a local body shop that mixes their own paint, sometimes you can get good deals on mismatched or left over matched colors.  Online try paintforcars.com, only downside with them I think gallons are the smallest they offer.  For your 2k clear there is often a discount brand like U-POL or SEM which work fine for me.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #23 on: October 31, 2021, 04:59:42 PM »
You probably disagree, and that is fine, but it is the emphasis on shine I find ridiculous.  I can't find any definition of appearance in the rule book so I guess my use of "interpretation" is subject to interpretation itself but at least what I have experienced since coming back into the sport is that shine has become the most important factor.   With no objective criteria in the rules appearance becomes totally subjective. 

   It was and always will be entirely subjective, before just as much as now.  I am not sure where you get the notion about "shine". After the Ron Burn incident, everybody (in stunt, at least) is very well aware of the problem. If you had a satin finish airplane that was of the same quality as the Usual Suspects for front rows, it was properly utilized, you would be at absolutely no disadvantage, and maybe have a bit of a leg up, because no one else has done it.

  It does ultimately come down to the judges, of course it is subjective, but, while I am not intending to pick on you - where do all these "rules" that "everyone knows about" come from?  I go to a lot of contests, including the very biggest, I know and routinely talk to most of the other top competitors (including multiple Concours and 20-point winners) and I am pretty clued in to what is going on - and I never hear or know about all these things everyone else takes as a given.

   Build/finish a superior airplane and no one is going to ding you for it.

      Brett
« Last Edit: November 03, 2021, 10:26:34 AM by Brett Buck »

Offline John Carrodus

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #24 on: February 02, 2022, 10:11:47 PM »
Hi.
I must say I haven't read all the stuff below in detail, but I would like to share some thoughts on spray cans and some pics.
I am a great fan of easy , no mess, no drama spray cans. Cheap and easy to use IF and only if ..............

          (1) You are willing to live with a final coat that is attractive, cost effective, robust to raw glow fuel ( Not 100%
               perfect but 95% ) and diesel proof.

          (2) You spray light coats, in warm, dry conditions.

          (3) Do NOT invert the can to clear nozzle. But you MUST wipe your thumb over the nozzle EVERY time you stop
               spraying for more that 10 seconds.( If invert to clear, you will run outa pressure with half a can of paint and no
               way to push it out!)

I use here in NZ a local automotive acrylic paint by Repco, or Aussie SCA . I use a grey primer filler and often with military planes leave it at that sanding between each coat, then gluing on markings from my computer , black line marker pen for panel lines and rivets, a first light dust coat acrylic clear to seal black ink (after 24 hrs for ink to cure.) Then 2-3 wahtever coats cler sanding very lightly between till happy.

Fuel up, attach line , go fly.
Not perfect but for me - good enough.


Offline John Carrodus

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #25 on: February 02, 2022, 10:51:47 PM »
Heres a few more pics

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2022, 02:03:55 PM »
John,

You have some interesting models there. What is the model on it's back?

Looks to me like you are already "in the groove" picking and using a paint system.

Most importantly is using a 2 part clear coat over everything. Epoxy in the engine and tank area after the 2 part clear.

The best paint systems come from the other side of the Pond.

Nice looking models! H^^

Charles

Trump Derangement Syndrome. TDS. 
Avaiojet Derangement Syndrome. ADS.
Amazing how ignorance can get in the way of the learning process.
If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline John Carrodus

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #27 on: February 03, 2022, 04:30:02 PM »
Charles.
Many thanks for your encouraging words.
Upside down- Hurricane. I will now wander off and find a few more pics and send em after I have my coffee and my will to live returns. Getting sick of the heat and 80% humidity here in Auckland today.
Back with pics soon
Cheers
John

Offline John Carrodus

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2022, 05:21:15 PM »
Big Bytes

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #29 on: February 03, 2022, 05:41:45 PM »
John,

You have some interesting features on your Hurricane, I'd like to know more about that model, especially the top side.

All paint? Decals or vinyl?

Covered with what material?

The Spitfire, are the ribs balsa?

The Krylon I use, satin or flat, I scratch up with 400 or 600 before I apply the top coat of 2 part clear.

Charles
Trump Derangement Syndrome. TDS. 
Avaiojet Derangement Syndrome. ADS.
Amazing how ignorance can get in the way of the learning process.
If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline John Carrodus

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #30 on: February 03, 2022, 11:52:48 PM »
Charles
Zee hard vones first!
The Spitfire wing ribs are made from black polystyrene foam ( Unused) supermarket meat trays. The material is very fine grained - sandable actually . About 4 mm thick and tough as heck. It is forgiving in a heavy/unscheduled landing and extremely light, especially after I've cut more holes in it. I have built many models this way over the last 6 years and they have been great.

The Hurricane - The fus and tail stabiliser were given to me half baked. I could see a Hurricane in there somewhere trying to get out. I designed the wing with split flaps and popped in a Fox 20- goes like hell and climbs like a homesick angel. I have trouble keeping it on the ground for more that half a metre.

I used heat shrink plastic film in the wings . The model has multiple coats of automotive spray can acrylic primer filler. Then marker pen detail, clear seal, then makings off my computer ( printed on printer paper ) cut out and glued on after 6 coats of acrylic clear - on the makings only. Marker pen on heat film is sealed by hand painting over with clear - just wide enough to protect the black lines.

The green camo was also from a spray can - automotive acrylic.

I find the more you mess with fine sanding between coats brings up a deeper gloss- if you like gloss. But of coarse adds
dead weight.

Lettering is hand cut from white paper, I usually choose easy letters with no curves- for obvious reasons.

On Basic profile stunts, Peacemakers, Ringmasters etc I love the clear coat lyered up over the balsa and ply. Very retro and no pissy paint schemes. A basic stripe across the wingtips kind of tart up sets them apart.

Offline John Carrodus

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Re: Spray can help please
« Reply #31 on: February 04, 2022, 12:10:32 AM »
I must add
I make my own exhaust systems and wheels.
The Spitfire is a in memory of my Uncle Owen Hardy - Ace- who flew Spitfires in the RAF. ( OHA on the fus)
He died a few years back at the ripe young age of 96, marbles intact. I miss him dreadfully.
Through My Eyes was his book- a great story. He attributed his survival to his sharp eyes. 


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