stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Larry Renger on October 05, 2013, 09:31:32 PM
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I have been demonstrating the model I did this way, but seem to be having a "problem of communication" .
The plan is to attach the Polyspan to your model by your preferred method (dope down the edges or iron down over Balsarite or Stixit). Do NOT dope the open bays! Heat shrink it as needed.
Now, cover the surfaces with SLC or perhaps Monokote, and then, using your iron, bond the film to the fiber. You are done,unless you want to paint it.
You now have a slick, smooth, remarkably tough surface. Sand the areas where you want to paint with 400 grit, wet. No primer needed, you have a flawless surface base. Shoot your base color and go from there.
I would expect to save several ounces and a whole heap of work on a full size stunter. Let us know your experiences with this technique!
Due to engine problems, my model has hit inverted a couple of times, and the material will get abraided, but the structure was undamaged, nor did the damaged areas " spread". A bit of clear tape, and back in business.
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Larry,
It's not a new technique and I've done that for about 6/7 years and got the tip from others that had done it before me with excellent results. It is especially good for fragile wings that if your like me use film almost exclusively then you need a way to impart the necessary rigidity to the wing that film alone will not accomplish. That is the real benefit of this covering method you get a good finish with no work and a totally rigid wing. Just don't have a warp or your in trouble trying to correct it.
With the introduction of an inferior form of Monokote it is especially good to use on tips as then you have a firm base to get the Monokote to adhere to and you end up with smooth wrinkle free tips. Oh and plain silkspan works as well if that's all you have at the time.
dennis
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Anyone tried this yet? It really does work and save an unbelievable amount of weight and work. What's not to like?
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Hi Larry,
Well, I have a sample ordered and I'm going to try it on my (Modified) Skyray. (Looks sort of Flight Streakisk) It's covered with polyspan now and ONLY doped at the edges! H^^
And since this ship is built with hardwood (Plywood & Oak I think) I want a light finish to hopefully come out with a medium weight overall. If it comes out waaaay to heavy, some beginner will love it!
You coming to GS?
See ya, Jerry
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I eagerly await your results! #^
Sadly, I won't be coming to GSC this year. Too much foot dragging in the building department. (Read some great books, though!) D>K
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Hi Larry,
Well, it's done. Covered the Skyray with SLC and it was a whole lot harder than I thought it was going to be. Had problems at the tips (naturally) as it was/is very "stiff" material. However it was easy to warp the wing straight, with a heat gun, after I got it covered.
Now to paint the fuse and tail..........
Cheers, Jerry
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SLA? isn't it SLC?
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Right you are, correction made
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I am not sure where to get the materials, but there are two different thicknesses available. I will research this and let all yous'e guys know. y1
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Hi Larry,
Thanks for posting this one. I did not think that the paint would stick too well to the laminating film, so this is interesting. I know of modellers that have done this the other way around and used the SLC underneath to prevent the Polyspan from soaking up too much dope. I've also seen some old timers covered with the thinnest SLC (38 micron??) and then coloured tissue dope on the outside to make it look authentic, especially on the OT free-flight models. Then there was also a thread here recently on spraying the glue side of SLC with colour, so the possibilities are out there to play with. I've already sourced a few suppliers here in Johannesburg, South Africa, so it should be easy to find the stuff. I'm going to give this a go for sure! Thanks again.
Keith R