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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Bootlegger on September 18, 2013, 09:07:25 AM
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Guy's I am looking at trying some single stage paint's for color, and in particular Dupli color paint.
Is this paint fuel proof, er resistant, or does it need some sort of clear over it, and if it does need clear will clear will work?
I am thinking about Sig lite clear probably thinned about two parts thinner/one part dope. Due to health problems, I don't like catalized clear automotive.
I don't like to spray anything, but...
Any and all suggestions/info/help will be appreciated...
Moderator if this need's to be in the paint section feel free to move it...
As usual thanks for the help...
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Gil I have used Dupli Color paint in spray cans and not had a problem with it at all. Using clear over it is a good idea but I have painted planes with it without clear and did not have any paint problems.
Mike
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Hi Gil,
I have used Sig Lite Coat over the Duplicolor spray can lacquers with no problems. Even so, I would do a test piece first. I do know that the "death paint" will go over it with no problems.
The Duplicolor "Clear" is not something I would use as the finish coats as it doesn't seem to be very fuel resistant for some reason.
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
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I used Duplicolor Paint Shop colors with Sig clear top coat on both my Foxberg and Clown racers. Worked great. Duplicolor Paint Shop clear is not fuel proof. The rattle can clear is better but I would go with the Sig.
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Rustoleum "Stop Rust"
Rustoleum "painter's Touch"
Rustoleum "automotive"
I have tried about a dozen colors. 2 week cure time, soak a paper towel in Sig Champion 25% and apply to a sample. The color lightens, but doesn't transfer (or very minimal transfer with rubbing). The color returns to normal after several hours. No gumminess when rubbing. You need to let it cure though as it will transfer at 1 week.
I have not tried clear, but have a can waiting to try.
It goes on heavy though, and can become an overweight problem very quickly. My last build I used clear dope + cornstarch to fill, sanded it all off 2x, 1 coat of Rustoleum grey automotive primer, sanded well, 1 coat of Rustoleum Blue "automotive", with a couple spot touch-ups and I am struggling for balance due to tail heaviness. Looks good though, and is the lightest paint job I've done since I was young and colored dope could be had anywhere...
I also never weighed planes when I was young.
Phil
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Rustoleum "Stop Rust"
Rustoleum "painter's Touch"
Rustoleum "automotive"
I have tried about a dozen colors. 2 week cure time, soak a paper towel in Sig Champion 25% and apply to a sample. The color lightens, but doesn't transfer (or very minimal transfer with rubbing). The color returns to normal after several hours. No gumminess when rubbing. You need to let it cure though as it will transfer at 1 week.
I have not tried clear, but have a can waiting to try.
It goes on heavy though, and can become an overweight problem very quickly. My last build I used clear dope + cornstarch to fill, sanded it all off 2x, 1 coat of Rustoleum grey automotive primer, sanded well, 1 coat of Rustoleum Blue "automotive", with a couple spot touch-ups and I am struggling for balance due to tail heaviness. Looks good though, and is the lightest paint job I've done since I was young and colored dope could be had anywhere...
I also never weighed planes when I was young.
Phil
Attsa da problem with enamel...heavy and slow drying, with no better fuel resistance than butyrate dope. And when you need to make a repair to the covering...ewww! H^^ Steve
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...Once again you fellow's have come thru, I sure do thank everyone for their thought's..and suggestions...
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Well I have just used a can of Rustoleum Grey/gray gloss spray paint. Instructions said 1 - 2 hours to touch and 24 hours before handling. Full cure in 2 weeks. I will be doing very little graphics with Monokote. Will see in a couple of weeks how it holds up.
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Sorry, grammar police alert! It is "paints" not "paint's". The paint does not own anything.
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Sorry, grammar police alert! It is "paints" not "paint's". The paint does not own anything.
Hey Larry,
When you have an excess of apostrophes you have to use them up or they go bad!
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Does Polycryllic as a top coat offer any protection from fuel? Or maybe just from exhaust goo on the rear parts?
I have a can of it and was wondering what to do with it. From what I read, it sounds maybe like it's better as a wood sealer and filler than a clear coat, but I think it does say it's resistant to alcohol(probably meaning liquor). I used to use clear LustreKote on top of Rustoleum to get a nice glassy finish. But the last few times I've used it over Rustoleum it orange peeled in some places. Maybe I was too heavy handed with it.
Rusty - Pukey Profile Punisher
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Sorry, grammar police alert! It is "paints" not "paint's". The paint does not own anything.
Yeah right!
When the wife and I downsized to a condo, the paint owned me for three days!
Charles
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Raw fuel strips Minwax polycryllic. Make up a sample and test it.
I've been "owned" by paint before after moving too...Next summer I have a good chance of being "owned" by housepaint, er, siding stain... *sigh*
Phil
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Rusty,
Polycrylic is water based and is not fuel resistant, but will not yellow over time. Good for electric, but not glow. On the other hand, polyurethane is solvent based and is fuel resistant. It will yellow over time and is also pretty heavy. If you use them for a wood sealer, the polycrylic is easier to sand, but may tend to warp thin sheeted balsa. I've used polycrylic with talcum powder added for a sealer/filler with good results. Since it's water based, I've put several types of paint over it with no adverse reactions. Polyurethane, for me, is too messy and heavy for C/L.
Paul