Geez, guys, I don't get it........... so many problems when using just one "method" all the way through........ I gotta say, it doesn't seem to make any difference as far as having problems with the way you guys talk about things going wrong.
Joe, I have used lacquer primer, like you have, and used basecoat/clear coat over it with no problems. My Argus which has been shown here in the past was done like that with no problems encountered, not even years later. Of course, it had a nitrate base, butyrate high shrink on the open bays, lite coat sealer coats, ......
I also break the rules and shoot automotive 2 part urethane clear over dope and lacquer bases. That paint job has only held up for about 15 years now....... and was second to Windy's Spitfire for the Concours at Flushing its first time out.
The only major problems I have had was using too much retarder in some acrylic lacquer while in a hurry. That happened twice and I won't use retarder, or a very hot thinner, anymore!
I was also told by The Man to use a very, very light gray for a blocking coat on everything. That gray I make with either Certified butyrate white, PPG mixing base white acrylic lacquer, or Duplicolor Paint Shop white, tinted with Sig, PPG or Duplicolor Black (it just depends on which can I grab first). They all mix together with no problems. That also works.......
I am beginning to believe that problems are caused more by application techniques than a mixing of materials. I will admit that there are SOME rules to follow like never putting lacquer over enamel (unless you are VERY careful
J/K ) nitrate over butyrate, or using Aero Gloss with anything else......
Big Bear