...

..

Hi Dave,

Gold butyrate dope (Reno gold) is made by Randolph; available from Aircraft Spruce, for one source. I have a quart of it (a life time supply, I expect.)

You can buy fine gold flakes just mix with a clear and push it through an air brush.

I've used them for some applications but never on a model airplane.

I'm thinking of using a bit of this on Pushy Galore.

 

Charles,

Any idea what is the smallest size nozzle that works with those flakes?

Lauri

Lauri,

That's an interesting question.

My guess is you would have do tests with various sizes and examine the results.

I'd start with the largest tip and work my way down.

Also, I would abide by the thinning recommendations especially if masking was to take place over it.

A quality 'jam gun,' as we called it, or a 'detail gun,' as most call it today, do spray a small circular pattern.

Could be an easier consideration?

I hate cleaning spray equipment.

There are peel n stick vinyls that have the same look. I might do some experimenting with these also.

Charles

Another option is automotive pigment.  They will mix any shade you want, just don't get it with binder.  It mixes well with butyrate and covers like crazy.  Now, having said that, my latest project has gold and I used Randolph.  I now have a lifetime supply.  Cost works out about the same, a little more sometimes for auto paint depending on the color. 

Mike,

Interesting that you mentioned automotive products.

This would open the door to a million combinations in color, especially in the 'World of Pearl."

I did suggest years ago painting models using auto paint systems and clear coats, but it only got me trolled and bullied.

I see now, years later, their finally learning.

Well some anyway.

Same thing with glass cloth and resin, as we used in R/C for years to finish our models. Poo-pooed also.

That's also starting to catch on.

I will never tell the Forum "I told you so." 

      We have tried to get through to your delusional little world and tell you that you were NOT the first person to use automotive finishing products on model airplanes and introduce it to the rest of the real world. That has been going on since well before the internet and the stunt forums. And the same for glass cloth and resin. You do not actively fly model airplanes to see the end result of the practices, just build hanger queens. You do not use your real name, so we can't look you up in contest results or see if we can find anyone who remembers you hoisting the Walker Cup or wing the Tournament of Champions R/C Pattern event in Las Vegas. Not of the photos you have ever posted have an AMA number on them, which means you were never a member of the AMA  or flew in any AMA sanctioned events of any kind. So until you can provide some kind of validation for winning or even entering a contest, either currently or at any time previously, quit making claims that you are the father of of all aircraft finishes. This is not trolling or bullying, (which I am convinced that you do not know the meaning of either word) , just calling you out and stating some facts. I don't care what kind of photos you put up of airplanes you allegedly built and finished. Again, hanger queens all.
    And you just told the forum "I told you so", AGAIN!!

   Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Ok Chuck, this is Dave's thread.  I can guarantee you he is not interested in vinyl stick junk on his NATS  airplanes any more than the rest of are interested polyester resin.  I have pictures.  I won't post them here.  Dan
 
has pictures.  We are not that vain.

Mica powder was the question.  I haven't tried it, I also haven't built any RC aircraft of any kind.  Everything I build I fly, so does Dan.

See you in Muncie.  Put up or shut up.

You like movie quotes.  "The truth? You can't handle the truth."

I'm done with this.

Boy I go get some flights in and you boys are in a donnybrook!   Charles I know you can do some impressive work in vinyl.  I've been screwing up my own stuff for a long while now and will continue to do so.....Thanks!
I had a rough time on a couple old nostalgia combat ships I built over the winter and covered in silk.  I tried Certified tautening and Sig Supercoat but it took MANY coats to get the silk to pull up tight.  They still have some dimples.  When my son in law was ready to cover his new profile I suggested he should cover it in silk and I'd show him how to use it.  (Little did he know I wanted to experiment with the Randolph tautening on HIS airplane!)  As it turned out his FIRST silk job looked better than anything I have done in silk.  The Randolph works like magic.  My new ship will have the Randolph clear, Sig colors and Certified top clear.....
Mike you and Bill both have lifetime supplies.  You should re-bottle it in four ounce jars and sell it!  Bill I remember from days of old about butyrate OVER nitrate and never the other way.  I'd prefer to use Butyrate on the bare wood from the beginning for fuel proofing but it is what it is....think I see a lot of silking in my future.  Lauri I have always had at least some issues getting anything metallic through my airbrush.  It usually has to be almost too thin and yet I still have to stop and flush it out pretty often.  I have found a heavy dose of retarder seems to help .

Dave

Charles somehow I sense a disconnect here.  I suppose you can stick silk down with about anything you choose.  It’s about what happens after that.  You must put something on it.  On the first coat of any dope the silk loosens, sags and wrinkles up like crazy.  Unlike silkspan which will tighten right back up -more so and tighter than it started with- silk at the very best will only go back to whatever its natural dry state was and not more.  The hard part is getting it to get back THAT much.  That’s why it’s applied wet, to let it loosen and stretch as much as possible and then let it pull back to where it was dry.  In this case the Randolph has better shrinking qualities and seems to work best.  You haven’t said what you are putting on the silk afterwards.  You must be putting something on it.  If over open bays it has to be chemical and it has to shrink a bunch.

Dave

Charles somehow I sense a disconnect here.

Dave, This can be a good thing.   

It’s about what happens after that.  You must put something on it.

Yes I do, I use only Sig Supercoat.   

On the first coat of any dope the silk loosens, sags and wrinkles up like crazy.

Mine doesn't, I must use magic silk.  , I said there's application techniques. I get trolled by jealous resentment haters, so no one listens to me. I'm fine with that, it's not my loss.

Notice I've 'backed off' on the Forum a bit.

Unlike silkspan which will tighten right back up -more so and tighter than it started with- silk at the very best will only go back to whatever its natural dry state was and not more.

Silkspan. Yes, the least expensive product kit manufactures can put in the box. I used silkspan on the wing of my Gee Bee Z. Took more coats to fill it than the silk I use. I believe one wing wrinkled
a bit. I used a heat gun.

GADS! A heat gun. Don't start any fires.

The hard part is getting it to get back THAT much.

The way I do silk, I find nothing hard or difficult about it. It's all in my builds. Sure, I started out doing silk wet, but I progressed to what I consider a better method.

That’s why it’s applied wet, to let it loosen and stretch as much as possible and then let it pull back to where it was dry.

I'm not sure that's correct? Even Sparky says silk doesn't stretch all that much. I've applied silk both ways. I'll stay with my dry application method. The way I work, 'efficiency' and time is important. I'm old and I'm running out of time.

In this case the Randolph has better shrinking qualities and seems to work best.

I have absolutely no use for any Randolph product. I'll shout that from the rooftops. Sold what I had because I didn't like it. And yes, I gave Randolph plenty of effort.

You haven’t said what you are putting on the silk afterwards.

Yes I have, plenty of times, in every build or finishing Thread I put up. All the information is there. As I said, I get trolled by jealous resentment haters, so no one listens to me or visits CFC Graphics where some of my builds are.

These trolls probably have Forum members convinced I know absolutely nothing.

I'm fine with that, it's not my loss because, as I said many times, I just do my thing.

Just so you know.

Yes, Sig Supercoat is all I use on the wings. I fill the grain with Sig Supercoat, then apply silk dry with CA. Finish with coats of Sig Supercoat. I did the Gee Bee Z fuselage and tail feathers this way and the GBR3 wings the way And the ARGO II wings this way. Photos and text in my builds. 

Charles

Well I see one of the hanger queens on the bay and the starting price has been reduced some but still to much for me to even consider.   I quit using silk and nylon when I quit combat.  Have used butyrate almost exclusively in dope products.  My favorite finish is the K&B epoxy paint which is no longer available, especially for laying down light weigh glass cloth for a base.  Now I use a finishing system that seems to work with out using dope.   Granted they are not 20 point finishes, but they work for me.

Now how many members do we have in the troll club? 

By the way I've seen Dave's planes in person and can attest to the fact they are top notch finishes.