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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: petermick on July 07, 2016, 11:04:36 AM
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Hi Guys
For a number of years I have used Rustoleum Stops Rust Enamel with no problems. On my latest project I painted parts of my plane with Rustoleum Painters Touch Gloss White 2X Ultra Cover Paint + Primer. Since this plane is electric powered I didn't have to worry about clear being fuel proof or not. I have never used the Crystal Clear Enamel before. Because I want a really high gloss finish I decided to give it a try. I decided to try a test and sprayed the underside of one of the elevators with Rustoleum Stops Rust Crystal Clear Enamel. I put on a wet coat and within minutes the white coat started to "krinkle" in some areas.
Two questions. Should I not put on a wet coat and just given the part a light spray first? These are both Rustoleum products but might there be a compatibility problem?
Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks
Peter Mick
AMA 9581
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I forgot to mention, the white paint was applied 5 days before I put on the clear.
Peter Mick
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Hopefully your white paint wasn't dope. wrinkling is always inevitable when dope is used unless it has had about a (year), subject to heated debate, to gas off.
Dennis
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Read your can again. Sounds like you didn't wait long enough. I know my cans say recoat color or clear within a day. Other wise wait a week or two.
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Rust-O-Leum colors are enamel. The clear coat is a laquer(not fuel proof) with lots of solvents in it. That is what wrinkled up the color coats. 1-12 months of letting the enamel dry might be enough if the clear is applied in thin coats. But really you'd be better off experimenting with one of the rattlecan urethane clear coat automotive paints. They use different solvents and can go over almost anything without problems. But, please, make a test panel first when trying something new!!!
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The Rustoleum clear is not the least bit fuel resistant, though the enamel colors are(but not the metallics). I use Clear Lustrekote on 2 week old Rustoleum, and dust it several times over a couple of hours before laying on the shiny glass coat. In a year or so it'll start to spiderweb crack, but it's as fuel proof as anything short of polyurethane or epoxy paint. Rustoleum goes on thick and heavy. I recommend using flat colors which go on lighter and adhere better(in my experience), and after the Lustrekote, they look just as glossy as the gloss colors would have. And the Lkote seems to bond better too.
However, I think Rusto has changed the formula and isn't as good as it was a few years ago. I've switched to Duplicolor acrylic lacquer, which is fast drying, in one day, and goes on thin and light with very little extra weight. Use NAPA DC540 primer/filler and you'll have the best paint job you ever saw from a rattlecan. The nozzles are superior too, with a triangular knife-edge spray pattern and an adjustable nozzle. Auto parts stores have the colors, and the primer had different part numbers but may be the same. DC540 is in a NAPA labeled ca. They also sell the Duplicolor lacquer colors. DC also comes in enamel. It's fuel resistant like Rusto was, quicker drying(one day), but much heavier than the lacquer. With the acrylic lacquer, you need to fuelproof it. Lustrekote plays well with it, but I'm using butyrate dope on everything but the nose, which gets Lustrekote.
Rusty