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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Frank Imbriaco on May 05, 2016, 07:32:20 AM
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Specifically interested in RUSTOLEUM as they have colors in hammered finish(metallic) .
Anyone discover how this paint reacts with gasoline and Coleman fuels ?
Already know that Rustoleum Metallics are n.g. with glow fuel.
Thanks
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oddly enough I do know. I painted my 1949 Willis Jeepster engine in Hammer-coat metallic green, because I like the color. It has 5 yr of running and it's still good. It seems ok with Gasoline.
Ken
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Ken :
Sounds like a neat vehicle. Many years ago, an uncle owned two Jeep Overlands- a 48 and a 62. Box style with rear wheel drive. Taught myself to drive a stick(3 on the tree) on the 48 back in and helped my uncle put in pistons and rings when I was 17. Easy peisy with that little four.
Dad bought a new Jeepster Commando in 68 with the Buick V-6. Troubles galore with that one, but I could catch rubber in second( 3 on the floor).
Now, my daily is a Wrangler Unlimited.
Have always been a fan
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here ya go Frank.
It's all factory spec now. 6 volt, but added turn signals and seat belts. Engine by Stunt/combat flyer Greg Davis. Transmission and OD by "Herm the overdrive guy". I drive it in the good weather.
Ken
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Frank,
Why don't you just apply what you need to cover then finish with a two part auto clear, also available in an aerosol can.
Your worries will be over.
Charles
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Charles:
Yes, that option exists, but for authenticity I'm trying to keep with single stage and avoid a clear topping.
The metal toy I'm restoring/painting is from 1946.
If possible, I try to remain faithful to an era. As we all know, Rustoleum wasn't around then but their hammered finish colors are a pretty good match and single stage.
Ken:
That is a really sweet ride.
Doubt you've ever seen yourself coming/going in that one !
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Frank,
WOW! You're doing a toy, interesting.
Let's see some photos!
Charles
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I think that paint is totally gas resistant for splashes. I painted a 1939 outboard gas tank (leaky cap and all) with the silver hammertone and it shows no reaction to gas. It was painted nearly 20 yrs ago so the formula may have changed by now but it still looks good. As a side comment the stuff is quite soft and mars easily when first applied. I use it on old tools and bench vices...it seems to take months of curing before it gets to max hardness.
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Bill :Good to know
Here's the thing. When a base coat/clear coat product is used with a glow engine, all's fine until a very minor crack , chip, scratch occurs to the clear coat. Then if raw fuel comes in contact with that "breech", all hell breaks lose. Crazing beneath the clear coat and that sometimes migrates -an ugly mess. Of course, Rustoleum doesn't fit into to the base coat/clear coat category, but the Hammered finish with a clear topping just might react the same way.
As Ken and Bill report ,it appears to be a different story with gasoline contact. I'd be interested in the product paint code #( if available) from the old cans for the green Ken used and the silver Bill used.
As we know, formulas often change . If I get the product paint code #( not the bar code), I can get the formula from the Rustoleum web site and compare it to today's.
I wish someone else out there made Hammered Silver and Blue in quantities consistent with hobby needs.. Dupli-color and Eastwood don't.
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Frank. I found an old can of the green I used. Rustoleum # Deep green. The can has a picture of a car wheel and a red tool box. Says "stops rust" The cap shows the color as well as a slight texture. I would think it would be perfect for restoration of a 'period toy"
Here is a picture of the Jeepster engine. This is a video and it ought to be functional. The other old fart helping me is Jeffery Rein, well known combat flyer.
https://vimeo.com/54201716
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Enjoyed the video, Kenny. We had a '51 Overland 2wd when we were stationed in TN (I was in 1st Grade!). Dad's commuter car. It came west with us, but went away while we were in Cougarville. Started out metallic green with the basketweave inserts, but ended up baby chit tan. Ugh. Mom picked the color. Why, Mom, why???!!!
My street rodding/FF & CL flying buddy Brian Mace has one with 4wd, 4 spd, 360 Mopar. He converted it to the vertically split rear "delivery" doors, chopped the top a few inches and sectioned the body a few inches...looks a little "different", but it's a fairly subtle rework, and really looks good. He's out in Covington near Crest Airpark. Two tone gold/bronze, if I remember correctly. Let me know when you'll be down sometime, and I'll see if we can get yours and his together? y1 Steve
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Steve-o.
Lots of guys in the Jeepster club have "rodded" the old things. I wanted this to be factory spec and it pretty much is. Lots of things I don't like, but it's a cooler project to keep it all stock, it has the first ever PCV valve. I couldn't get it un-stuck or rusted so have a modern one in it. I have added seatbelts and turn signals. The one thing that was really not stock was the engine paint....I just like the color.
Supposed to be Black= sea level, Blue = high altitude.
Metallic Green= combat and speed flyer. The Trans was a basket case when I got it....it's a real piece of antique Engineering so it went to "Herm The Overdrive Guy" in Brush Prairie Washington for rebuild. He rebuilt it as carefully as Greg Davis did the engine. I never get out of 2nd gear in town.....just let off on the gas and she shifts into 2nd gear overdrive......sweet.
Still trying to stop going down hills.
Ken
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Ken, better than a PCV valve is a simple metering orifice...a constant vacuum leak, with the vacuum drawing the fumes from the valve cover...well, from the side of the crankcase in the case of a flathead. It will still get clogged up occasionally with mung, but a soak in carby cleaner or one of those tiny spraybar brushes will clear it out. Orifice should be about 1/16". Volvo gave up on PCV valves in the late '60's and
went with this idea. "Simplicate and add reliability!" y1 Steve