I have been told that some of the rust-oleum paints are fuel proof.  Are all of them fuel proof?  which ones are?  How do you identify the fuel proof ones?

thanks

steve

I once sprayed the minwax poly over uncured Rustoleum just like the Rustoleum instructions for recoating.  It worked fine so far (a couple of years on it).  Do try a test piece, though.  I did the same thing more recently with Duplicolor clear engine coating, the one "with ceramic".  It appears to be absolutely fuel proof even in the tank compartment after a fuel leak.

I use Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamei in a spray can and  it gives a beautiful glossy finish and is fuel proof. Let it cure for about 2 weeks and you're set.

and another question to add to this.... do ya sand between coats? I would assume no if ya properly sand and fill before primer correct?

and another question to add to this.... do ya sand between coats? I would assume no if ya properly sand and fill before primer correct?

If you paint within 48 hours of laying down the last coat you don't -- that's how I've done most of my planes.  One of my planes I was held up for a week between the white base coat and some trim -- that one has flaked off some paint and, in retrospect, I should have scuffed the surface up with sandpaper or steel wool.

Polycryllic is not polyurethane.  Polyurethane is stinky!

I fill the grain with primer sanding very well.  The "Professional" primer is fast dry and sandable after a short dry period, like an hour.  The "Painter's touch" primer has to sit 24+ hours before sanding or it balls up. 

Enamel does not like being sanded until it is fully cured.  It will ball up instead of cutting.

Phil

James you don't need to sand between coats if the plane is properly prepared before  spraying Rustoleum. In fact when spraying the first coat all you need is coverage and the Rustoleum will flow out and do the rest.

I was amazed at how well this product works for our application. It won't get you to the 1st row at the Nats ,but for the rest of us it's fantastic....Remember use the protective gloss enamel

Yes, I use the "professional" primer in gray.  I think that is the only color available. 

Phil

I've had incredible success using the Rustoleum Protective Gloss Enamel on my last four planes. If the surface prep is right you only need one coat. The key is to spray on days with very ,very little humidity. It'll flow out into a beautiful fuel proof glossy finish. Trust Me ....it works......PhillySkip

In addition to Phil's answer that the metallics are not fuel resistant, I can add that Rusto clear is not either. For that reason I have not used the RO clear, and opted instead for Clear Lustrekote. It must be laid on in several dustings or it will ruin the color coat, but once it's on the front end where fuel is likely to get, it's bulletproof. L'kote clear is heavy, so I never use it on the rear of the plane.

Lately I've switched over to Duplicolor Perfect Match acrylic lacquer(not fuel resistant), and it plays well with clear dope and Lustrekote perfectly. And it dries in hours, not weeks. For primer, the NAPA DC-540 works best with the Duplicolor paints. The Duplicolor acrylic enamel is fuel resistant, dries very fast, and is slightly heavier than the acrylic lacquer.
Rusty

I'm not sure ANYTHING is diesel proof............

Is Rustoleum spray paint diesel fuel proof? If yes which version?

     I think even nitrate dope is diesel fuel proof. If we all ran FAI fuel we could all use straight dope with no worries because it's the nitro that causes the problems. Diesels are real popular in Europe because of this fact, especially among free flight gas scale modelers. I may be wrong on this but this is what I remember from reading Aeromodeler all these years and some other British published books on the subject.
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

You should send a PM to Avaiojet, he's an expert with spay cans.

MM

MM,

Thank you.

It's nice to be considered an expert, even if by only one person. 

All these models painted with aerosol cans!

CB

I don't think anyone mentioned this about Rustoleum and if they did excuse the duplication.  If you will heat the can before you spray it on the model, it will flow much better and even gloss more.  I use a heat gun and point it at the bottom of the can.  I heat it to the point where the metal can is hot but I can still handle it. 

Mike

       I have been telling people for years to use hot water, as hot as it comes out of your faucet. Fill a pot or pan and let the can soak in it while you prep parts or whatever.I would be leery of using anything else to heat the can. The warmth expands the propellant and helps thin the paint. Works well with most paints, not so well with some.
  Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee