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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Steve Schoenecker on January 11, 2017, 03:54:56 PM
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I have been told that some of the rust-oleum paints are fuel proof. Are all of them fuel proof? which ones are? How do you identify the fuel proof ones?
thanks
steve
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Not the metallics.
I have tested several solid colors of
Professional
Stop Rust
Painters Touch
I paint a test board or stick. I allow dry 14 days or more. I then apply Sig Champion 25% to a paper towel and cover the wet towel with plastic and leave it for an hour. I then look for peeling or disintegration of the paint, then if it looks good, lightly rub with the paper towel.
I expect slight discoloration and minimal color transfer.
Minwax polyurethane spray is also fuelproof and clear, and can go over Rustoleum that has cured.
I recommend testing your own samples all the same.
Phil
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I once sprayed the minwax poly over uncured Rustoleum just like the Rustoleum instructions for recoating. It worked fine so far (a couple of years on it). Do try a test piece, though. I did the same thing more recently with Duplicolor clear engine coating, the one "with ceramic". It appears to be absolutely fuel proof even in the tank compartment after a fuel leak.
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I use Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamei in a spray can and it gives a beautiful glossy finish and is fuel proof. Let it cure for about 2 weeks and you're set.
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I use Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamei in a spray can and it gives a beautiful glossy finish and is fuel proof. Let it cure for about 2 weeks and you're set.
and another question to add to this.... do ya sand between coats? I would assume no if ya properly sand and fill before primer correct?
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and another question to add to this.... do ya sand between coats? I would assume no if ya properly sand and fill before primer correct?
I can't find pics, but this little 1/2A is rustoleum painted. I run 25% through it usually. The video might be a little slow paced for you experienced fellas, but as you can see, I spilled raw fuel on it, didn't clean it until later and it's still all good. I haven't even flown this thing. Just been a cute engine test stand.
I did color sand between coats on this one James. Really light coats until the coverage was nice. But I suck at painting!
https://youtu.be/Q3y-jiHbW5A
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and another question to add to this.... do ya sand between coats? I would assume no if ya properly sand and fill before primer correct?
If you paint within 48 hours of laying down the last coat you don't -- that's how I've done most of my planes. One of my planes I was held up for a week between the white base coat and some trim -- that one has flaked off some paint and, in retrospect, I should have scuffed the surface up with sandpaper or steel wool.
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Min Wax Polycrylic- maybe they have been messing with the formula. The last time I tried it(10 years) a small splash of fuel was all it took to turn tacky and never dry. Just by the end of the flying session.
The other problem is the the polyacrylic varnishes(presumably with some urethane polymerized into the acrylic to toughen it) is that they are generally hardwood floor finishes. The water-based ones(Min Wax, Carver Tripp, Varathane) can all get extremely brittle if used on paper or silk over open bays. They'll also sometimes craze a bit just from seasonal themperature/humidity changes.
Phil C
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Polycryllic is not polyurethane. Polyurethane is stinky!
I fill the grain with primer sanding very well. The "Professional" primer is fast dry and sandable after a short dry period, like an hour. The "Painter's touch" primer has to sit 24+ hours before sanding or it balls up.
Enamel does not like being sanded until it is fully cured. It will ball up instead of cutting.
Phil
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Phil,
is that primer the gray stuff? I tried it nd it seems to do much better than the Painters touch white. That stuff reacts to EVERYTHING unless it's cured for at least a week or two
K
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James you don't need to sand between coats if the plane is properly prepared before spraying Rustoleum. In fact when spraying the first coat all you need is coverage and the Rustoleum will flow out and do the rest.
I was amazed at how well this product works for our application. It won't get you to the 1st row at the Nats ,but for the rest of us it's fantastic....Remember use the protective gloss enamel
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James you don't need to sand between coats if the plane is properly prepared before spraying Rustoleum. In fact when spraying the first coat all you need is coverage and the Rustoleum will flow out and do the rest.
I was amazed at how well this product works for our application. It won't get you to the 1st row at the Nats ,but for the rest of us it's fantastic....Remember use the protective gloss enamel
Oh for sure.
This is gona be my go to method as I don't care to monokote a fuselage. Wings I'll monokote for now.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Yes, I use the "professional" primer in gray. I think that is the only color available.
Phil
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thanks Phil. I just wanted to be sure it's the same that I had tried here. Like I said, the white primer is awful for my purposes, but the gray sandable stuff works great.
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I've had incredible success using the Rustoleum Protective Gloss Enamel on my last four planes. If the surface prep is right you only need one coat. The key is to spray on days with very ,very little humidity. It'll flow out into a beautiful fuel proof glossy finish. Trust Me ....it works......PhillySkip
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ditto re the grey primer and good results
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In addition to Phil's answer that the metallics are not fuel resistant, I can add that Rusto clear is not either. For that reason I have not used the RO clear, and opted instead for Clear Lustrekote. It must be laid on in several dustings or it will ruin the color coat, but once it's on the front end where fuel is likely to get, it's bulletproof. L'kote clear is heavy, so I never use it on the rear of the plane.
Lately I've switched over to Duplicolor Perfect Match acrylic lacquer(not fuel resistant), and it plays well with clear dope and Lustrekote perfectly. And it dries in hours, not weeks. For primer, the NAPA DC-540 works best with the Duplicolor paints. The Duplicolor acrylic enamel is fuel resistant, dries very fast, and is slightly heavier than the acrylic lacquer.
Rusty
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Is Rustoleum spray paint diesel fuel proof? If yes which version?
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I'm not sure ANYTHING is diesel proof............ LL~
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You should send a PM to Avaiojet, he's an expert with spay cans.
MM
Please.............Leave me out of it. LL~ LL~ LL~
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Is Rustoleum spray paint diesel fuel proof? If yes which version?
I think even nitrate dope is diesel fuel proof. If we all ran FAI fuel we could all use straight dope with no worries because it's the nitro that causes the problems. Diesels are real popular in Europe because of this fact, especially among free flight gas scale modelers. I may be wrong on this but this is what I remember from reading Aeromodeler all these years and some other British published books on the subject.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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You should send a PM to Avaiojet, he's an expert with spay cans.
MM
It doesn't count if the models never see fuel, and they are never seen in the light of day. That's not bullying, that is just the honest to God truth!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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You should send a PM to Avaiojet, he's an expert with spay cans.
MM
MM,
Thank you.
It's nice to be considered an expert, even if by only one person. LL~
All these models painted with aerosol cans!
CB
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I don't think anyone mentioned this about Rustoleum and if they did excuse the duplication. If you will heat the can before you spray it on the model, it will flow much better and even gloss more. I use a heat gun and point it at the bottom of the can. I heat it to the point where the metal can is hot but I can still handle it.
Mike
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I don't think anyone mentioned this about Rustoleum and if they did excuse the duplication. If you will heat the can before you spray it on the model, it will flow much better and even gloss more. I use a heat gun and point it at the bottom of the can. I heat it to the point where the metal can is hot but I can still handle it.
Mike
I have been telling people for years to use hot water, as hot as it comes out of your faucet. Fill a pot or pan and let the can soak in it while you prep parts or whatever.I would be leery of using anything else to heat the can. The warmth expands the propellant and helps thin the paint. Works well with most paints, not so well with some.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Another tip I remembered when we were discussing rattlecan painting on this week's Friday night live hangout:
Rather than starting with glossy Rustoleum colors, buy the flat paint. I believe they cover the primer with a lighter application, which saves considerable weight. And a day or so later, wet sand it with 600 till it's pretty smooth. Then when you apply your clear, it looks every bit as glossy-glassy as if you had started with gloss colors. I think you'll be happy with the finish and weight savings if you try that.
Save even more weight using Duplicolor acrylic enamel or especially lacquer(lacquer is not fuel resistant).
Rusty