Yup.

Their "Aerosol paints will dry by oxidation" is a bit incorrect.  Oil based enamel paints (like Rustoleum) will continue to cure by oxidization after the solvent has dried out of it (this is why folks tell you to wait two weeks before splashing fuel on your Rustoleum-painted model), but I don't think oxidization plays much of a role in lacquer-based finishes (i.e. Krylon).

(and two-part paints like epoxies cure by an entirely chemical process after the thinner (reducer, whatever) has flashed off -- the thinner is only there to give the stuff the right consistency for brushing or spraying).

Now Mark Scarborough can jump in and tell you where I'm wrong...

Their "Aerosol paints will dry by oxidation" is a bit incorrect.  Oil based enamel paints (like Rustoleum) will continue to cure by oxidization after the solvent has dried out of it (this is why folks tell you to wait two weeks before splashing fuel on your Rustoleum-painted model), but I don't think oxidization plays much of a role in lacquer-based finishes (i.e. Krylon).

(i.e. Krylon) Is not lacquer its enamel

It's no wonder you are having trouble. To begin with, Krylon is no
 longer the Krylon you're used to. This is due to the EPA meddling in
 the product. I spent the last two weeks wasting money and trying to
 solve a wrinkling/lifting problem (very similar to your reptile skin
 appearance), including at least seven calls to Krylon. Desperation was
 setting in since I was modifying a large model I built two years ago
 for a land developer. Used Krylon at that time and had no problem and
 went into this project using exactly the same Krylon paint so that
 everything would be compatible. I thought. Boy, was I wrong!
 
Without making this story way too long, here it is in a nutshell. Up
 until a year ago, the Krylon that we've all been used to was an
 acrylic lacquer. Dries in 12 minutes and can be recoated without any
 worry relative to the previous coat reacting. Unfortunately, the EPA
 in their wisdom came up with regulations that resulted in Krylon
 reformulating their old, reliable acrylic lacquer into an oil-based
 enamel. Not just an ordinary enamel but an oil-based enamel. This has
 several very interesting and very bad results where the modelbuilder
 is concerned.
 
You now have a window of application, followed by an extended drying
 period before it can be resprayed. The instructions on the back of
 the can are very specific and MUST be followed to the letter. To begin
 with, spray a light coat, wait five minutes and spray another light
 coat. Repeat the process until you have the desired coverage. Keep in
 mind that all spraying MUST be completed within one hour or the
 underlying coats will wrinkle and lift. Not MAY but WILL. After that
 one hour time period, you MUST wait a minimum of 24 hours before
 applying another color coat or the previous coats that you thought
 were dry will...you guessed it....wrinkle and lift. Do be aware that
 24 hours in the MINIMUM waiting period. Depending on how many previous
 coats you applied in the one hour time frame, you may have to wait
 more than 24 hours to apply additional coats.
 
Although the instructions don't indicate the need for a base coat,
 this stuff is so weird that I would definitely recommend a primer
 base. However, even the primer is an oil-based enamel with the same
 window of application and drying time. Be that as it may, be sure to
 used the Krylon primer so that everything is compatible.
 
Finally, because you're dealing with an oil-based enamel, plan on an
 extended painting session and multiple coats in order to prevent runs.
 Because it doesn't have the 'tooth' or grab of acrylic lacquer,
 applying enough paint to attain an opaque coat...especially where
 white is concerned... white is concerned...<wbr>is guaranteed to result in
 
Oh, one last comment. According to Krylon, changing the formula from
 an acrylic lacquer to an oil-based enamel made the product more user
 friendly for the average consumer. I don't know about the average
 consumer, but it did just the opposite where the modelbuilder is
 concerned.
 
By the way, if you're still longing for the old Krylon acrylic
 lacquer, it can still be found. As an industrial paint. Order it from
 industrial suppliers in six-can quantities and use it over Dupi-Color
 Gray Primer and Filler that, as far as I know, can only be found in
 NAPA Auto Supply stores.
 
Don't get the idea that you can find another brand of spray paint that
 will do the same job with a shorter wait time. ALL of them have
 suffered at the hands of the EPA. The window of application ranges
 from one to four hours and the wait time to recoat can be as long as
 two to seven DAYS. You can also forget picking up pure lacquer
 automotive paint that used to made by DuPont and available from
 automotive paint stores. DuPont doesn't make it any more. Thank the
 EPA for that as well.
 
Hope some of this helps.
 
"Richard Marmo, IPMS/USA #2
 The Modeler's Weapons Shop
 Scale Publications
 Modelbuilding Services by Richard Marmo"

>>Oxidation also causes rust on bare metals<<

Not to be picky, but only iron rusts. Other metals oxidize (I know, rust IS oxidation but it's a semantics thing). Brass, aluminum, copper all will oxidize, too. Copper develops verdigris (oxidation). Brass, patina (also oxidation). I think only aluminum gets oxidase.

 

Bob
I am assuming you put this information in this thread because you believe the same EPA issue applies to Rustoleum's Painters Touch brand of paints.  It sure seems to fit exactly what I experienced.  Also I don't ever remember this problem with regular Rustoleum or their Painters Touch version in the past.  This really caught me by surprise.

I'll be painting my Yak-9, a T-28 and a friend's P-51 sometime this summer, so I figured it would be okay to bump this thread. It's titled "Rustoleum" but the discussion turned more to Krylon, which I've never tried. It doesn't look like I'll ever be trying it after reading the above posts.

I've always had good results with Rustoleum Automotive Enamel that I buy at Lowes. I always cover it after a couple of weeks with Lustrekote Clear gloss, and never had a wrinkling problem until this Winter when I painted my Shoestring red and black. Most of it came out okay but a couple of patches of both colors wrinkled. I figured I had just laid the Lustrekote on too thick, but when I scraped and repainted the same thing happened. Is there any chance I would have better luck with Rustoleum clear? I've never tried it and don't know if it's sufficiently fuel resistant. I usually don't get much raw fuel on the plane, but plenty of exhaust and I clean it thoroughly when I get it back to the shop. Has anyone had any experience with the Rustoleum clear? Should it be applied immediately on top of the color, or is a 24 hour or a two week wait better.

Some of you mentioned two part paint. Are you using an airbrush to apply that. I don't have that equipment, so I'm stuck with rattle cans.

Thanks,
Rusty

Consensus on this Forum is that Rustoleum clear is not fuel proof or even resistant and will leave you with a sticky mess. Can't say first hand but decided to take other's work for it. A search will bear this out. 

Actually I did. Sorry for prematurely bumping the thread. I'll stick with Lustrekote and try to be light handed with it.

So is Painters Touch as fuel proof (resistant) as Rustoleum or the new Krylon?  Yes, not clear or metallics.