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Author Topic: Removing masking tape residue?  (Read 1080 times)

Offline Dennis Toth

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Removing masking tape residue?
« on: October 02, 2021, 08:43:13 AM »
Guys,
I just finished doing some basecoat color on my Ringmaster and found that the tape left some residue. Has anyone had this happen and how do you remove it? The base paint if a water base acrylic (Liquitex), it is very much like auto base coat so strong solvents could remove it. Any ideas?

Best,    DennisT

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2021, 08:48:55 AM »
I can't ever remember removing MT residue in my entire life.

You must buy the best tapes and learn what they are.

Bring an empty bottle to you're local sign shop and ask for Rapid-tack adhesive remover.

I've said this many times.

CB
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Offline John A Miller

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2021, 11:01:02 AM »
I've easily removed it with Mineral Spirits.

John

Offline Ken Culbertson

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2021, 11:17:01 AM »
I've easily removed it with Mineral Spirits.

John
From a water based paint?

Ken
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Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2021, 12:11:45 PM »
    Goo Gone.
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Offline Ken Culbertson

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2021, 12:36:07 PM »
    Goo Gone.
I made the mistake of using some acrylic over monokote.  Goo Gone wiped it off like it had never been there.

Ken
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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2021, 12:40:39 PM »
Lighter fluid is also great for it, and is, I think, the base for goo-gone.  I use it all the time to clean before spraying and the residue does not exist afterward.  What brand doesn't matter, but Ronsone is the more cost effective.
John 5:24   www.fcmodelers.com

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2021, 01:27:53 PM »
Never use masking tape for a paint edge.
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Offline Mike Quinn

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #8 on: October 02, 2021, 03:13:33 PM »
Hi

What do you use for a paint edge?

Mike

Offline kevin king

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #9 on: October 02, 2021, 04:34:46 PM »
Hi

What do you use for a paint edge?

Mike
For mostly straight paint lines use this: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/3m-scotch-fine-line-tapes/automotive-masking-tape
This blue tape is good to have also, for curves like a roundel. Its alot  more flexible.
Kevin.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2021, 04:57:59 PM by kevin king »

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #10 on: October 02, 2021, 06:18:28 PM »
For the record the tape I used was Frog Green and 3M Sensitive Surface pink. I had this happen when I did the checkerboard but that was SIG dope. That I cleaned with regular degreaser. I tried Windex and Goo Gone for tile, neither bothered the base coat but didn't remove the residue. Next will try the lighter fluid and see if that gets it.

The Liquitex is a water-based rattle can acrylic that on my scale tests is on par with dope. It seems very much like auto base coat and come in a whole palate of artist colors, just not auto colors. A similar produce is Montana Color which is also water-based acrylic. Both need a gloss top coat same as you would for dope. For those who need low odor these are great paints.

Best,     DennisT
« Last Edit: October 02, 2021, 07:57:23 PM by Dennis Toth »

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #11 on: October 02, 2021, 06:26:14 PM »
For the record the tape I used was Frog Green and 3M Sensitive Surface pink. I had this happen when I did the checkerboard but that was SIG dope. That I cleaned with regular degreaser. I tried Windex and Goo Gone for tile, neither bothered the base coat but didn't remove the residue. Next will try the lighter fluid and see if that gets it.

The Liquitex is a water-based acrylic that on my scale tests is on par with dope. It seems very much like auto base coat and come in a whole palate of artist colors, just not auto colors. A similar produce is Montana Color which is also water-based acrylic. Both need a gloss top coat same as you would for dope. For those who need low odor these are great paints.

Best,     DennisT

Tamiya paint products. Said this years ago, posted color charts and everything, plus I've used it.

My Stuka is covered with it.

So is the nose of my Mig-3.

Proven success.
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #12 on: October 02, 2021, 06:29:09 PM »
What Kevin said. ;D
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #13 on: October 03, 2021, 07:15:22 AM »
Here is a pic of the type of residue left (it is on the blue very faint). I have not tried the 3M Blue tape to see if it leaves same. If plain old masking tape did this I don't remember it. Maybe the old trick Windy used to take the tape and first put it on the flannel shirt did the trick?

I trued lighter fluid and it takes the paint off pretty easy, not like a stripper but does get into it. Will do a light sanding and call it good.

BTW, yes it is the same as the Tamiya acrylic paint, just the Liquitex and Montana Colors come in rattle cans, the Tamika acrylic is in small jars good for bush areas or airbrush. The L and MC are 400ml size rattle cans for large areas, MC has a large 500ml size and some 300ml size cans. All need top coat of clear.

Best,   DennisT

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #14 on: October 03, 2021, 08:40:32 AM »
Here is a pic of the type of residue left (it is on the blue very faint). I have not tried the 3M Blue tape to see if it leaves same. If plain old masking tape did this I don't remember it. Maybe the old trick Windy used to take the tape and first put it on the flannel shirt did the trick?

I trued lighter fluid and it takes the paint off pretty easy, not like a stripper but does get into it. Will do a light sanding and call it good.

BTW, yes it is the same as the Tamiya acrylic paint, just the Liquitex and Montana Colors come in rattle cans, the Tamika acrylic is in small jars good for bush areas or airbrush. The L and MC are 400ml size rattle cans for large areas, MC has a large 500ml size and some 300ml size cans. All need top coat of clear.

Best,   DennisT

Den,

I know all that.

Tamiya acrylic paint comes in spray cans also. Google it. It's top of the line, but it in Florida.

Windy, that's all old stuff, that tape on fabric isn't good advice, you pick up junk on the edge.  And if the surface is prepared correctly and paint is applied correctly, tape won't remove paint.

Just follow my Builds!! My Flite Streak had the tape still in place for three weeks when I removed part of it. No paint came off, I've said this before!

Back to the water base paint. They sell a clear which should immediately be put over color.

And you don't thin this paint with water!!

FINISH IN AUTO TWO PART CLEAR AND NOTHING ELSE!!!

CB
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If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #15 on: October 03, 2021, 10:08:09 AM »
Den,

I know all that.

Tamiya acrylic paint comes in spray cans also. Google it. It's top of the line, but it in Florida.

Windy, that's all old stuff, that tape on fabric isn't good advice, you pick up junk on the edge.  And if the surface is prepared correctly and paint is applied correctly, tape won't remove paint.

Just follow my Builds!! My Flite Streak had the tape still in place for three weeks when I removed part of it. No paint came off, I've said this before!

Back to the water base paint. They sell a clear which should immediately be put over color.

And you don't thin this paint with water!!

FINISH IN AUTO TWO PART CLEAR AND NOTHING ELSE!!!

CB

     
         You know that Tamiya spray paints are lacquer, don't you?

       https://www.tamiyausa.com/tamiya-spray-paints/

            TAMIYA SPRAY PAINTS

        TS These cans of spray paint are extremely useful for painting large surfaces. The paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. Each contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover 2 or 3, 1/24 scale sized car bodies. Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following an overall base coat, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. By combining the use of these three types of paints, the finishing of plastic models becomes simpler and more effective.

PS These spray paints were developed especially for decorating transparent polycarbonate bodies used in R/C car modeling. Each contain 100ml of paint, which is the appropriate amount for finishing a model. Paint the body from the inside, keeping the can about 30cm from the surface. After curing, apply another coat. Small details should be brush painted beforehand using Tamiya bottle paints for polycarbonate. These paints are impervious to oil and fuels, so they can be safely used on gas-powered R/C bodies. Never use these paints on plastic models.

AS These spray paints are specifically developed for finishing aircraft models. Each color is formulated to provide the authentic tone to model aircraft. The subtle shades can be easily obtained on your models by simply spraying. Each can contains 100ml of synthetic lacquer paint.


        The bottle paints are as follows;

        "Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrol resins, Styrofoam, wood, plus all of the common model plastics. The paint covers well, flows smoothly and can be blended easily. When airbrushing make sure to use any of the following Tamiya thinners: 81020, 81030, 81040, 81520, 87077 "

            The information in Windy's videos is as valid as anything that you will find. Some products mentioned may not be available any longer, but methodology is still sound. Windy has in the past and still does paint motorcycles professionally, has had numerous models in the front row and several were standing alone with 20 point finishes, has FLOWN these models to top 5 finishes at many NATS and if I am given the choice of following the advice of some one like Windy with a national following and proven success or some anonymous blow hard on the internet that has no reputation of any kind other than what he brags about, guess what most people would do?
   
      The only way you can refute any of this would be to show up at Muncie with one of those hanger queens, put it down for appearance judging, and duplicate what Windy has accomplished with a 20 point score, and then fly it in competition.

    Type at you later,
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #16 on: October 03, 2021, 11:39:59 AM »
     
         You know that Tamiya spray paints are lacquer, don't you?

       https://www.tamiyausa.com/tamiya-spray-paints/

            TAMIYA SPRAY PAINTS

        TS These cans of spray paint are extremely useful for painting large surfaces. The paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. Each contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover 2 or 3, 1/24 scale sized car bodies. Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following an overall base coat, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints. By combining the use of these three types of paints, the finishing of plastic models becomes simpler and more effective.

PS These spray paints were developed especially for decorating transparent polycarbonate bodies used in R/C car modeling. Each contain 100ml of paint, which is the appropriate amount for finishing a model. Paint the body from the inside, keeping the can about 30cm from the surface. After curing, apply another coat. Small details should be brush painted beforehand using Tamiya bottle paints for polycarbonate. These paints are impervious to oil and fuels, so they can be safely used on gas-powered R/C bodies. Never use these paints on plastic models.

AS These spray paints are specifically developed for finishing aircraft models. Each color is formulated to provide the authentic tone to model aircraft. The subtle shades can be easily obtained on your models by simply spraying. Each can contains 100ml of synthetic lacquer paint.


        The bottle paints are as follows;

        "Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrol resins, Styrofoam, wood, plus all of the common model plastics. The paint covers well, flows smoothly and can be blended easily. When airbrushing make sure to use any of the following Tamiya thinners: 81020, 81030, 81040, 81520, 87077 "

            The information in Windy's videos is as valid as anything that you will find. Some products mentioned may not be available any longer, but methodology is still sound. Windy has in the past and still does paint motorcycles professionally, has had numerous models in the front row and several were standing alone with 20 point finishes, has FLOWN these models to top 5 finishes at many NATS and if I am given the choice of following the advice of some one like Windy with a national following and proven success or some anonymous blow hard on the internet that has no reputation of any kind other than what he brags about, guess what most people would do?
   
      The only way you can refute any of this would be to show up at Muncie with one of those hanger queens, put it down for appearance judging, and duplicate what Windy has accomplished with a 20 point score, and then fly it in competition.

    Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

Dan, "Mr Silicone,"

I Post my models, that's my experience and I've been at it a long time, Way back!

Remember, I came into the Forum with experience in R/C building and finishing front row Pattern Ships.

I don't have to prove anything. As for you, good thing there's the internet.

Post your models and direct me, and others to your contributions, Builds!

Yes, I put photos of my models up whenever I get the chance. This is my proof of my building skills.

Lots of Experts in the Forum who have never put up a photo or a Build.
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #17 on: October 04, 2021, 07:25:24 AM »
Actually, Dan's post on Tamiya spray can paints is correct. They might have at one time offered the waterbase acrylic in spay can but what they have now is synthetic lacquer. Weight wise it is like Rustoleum, I have not tested fuel resistance.

At present Krylon has also changed their formula to acrylic enamel (same as Rustoleum). All these are good paint but they can get heavy, for my test (squares of aluminum foil sprayed with each paint then weighed on a digital gram scale) the waterbase acrylic is close to dope without the fumes, but you need the top coat for gloss (same as dope) and for fuel protection on IC.

This is not to say it is the greatest paint going, others use basecoat/clearcoat, Rustoleum and even dope with success. Also, I am not the first to post on acrylic waterbase paint, just information on a couple products that some may find useful.

As for the tape residue, not sure if all these tapes have changed there adhesive formulas but maybe I need to plan to get it on and off quicker to avoid the problem. I tend to tape one day and paint when I can get to it. So, after wiping down with Windex and letting dry off, I got out some 400 sand paper and gave a light sanding that seems to have gotten it to an acceptable surface for clear coat.

Best,   DennisT

 

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #18 on: October 04, 2021, 08:41:20 AM »
     Tamiya spray paints have always been lacquer. Formulations for their acrylics in jars has changed a lot over the years, and at one point it was all pulled off the shelves because it was considered flammable, and could not be imported because of the way it was packaged with the style of plastic cap it had at the time. I'm pretty sure on this but it was a long time ago. They had to reformulate the paint so they didn't have to reinvest in new packaging. Took them a long time to over come that one but they did. I worked part time in a local hobby shop for 35 years or more and stocked the rack with a LOT of it in my time there.
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Offline Dane Martin

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #19 on: October 04, 2021, 10:20:03 PM »

      The only way you can refute any of this would be to show up at Muncie with one of those hanger queens, put it down for appearance judging, and duplicate what Windy has accomplished with a 20 point score, and then fly it in competition.

    Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

Even more importantly, how would they hold up over a couple years of flight? All that castor and synth oil trying to seep in anywhere possible... they may very well look amazing. I'd be curious for how long

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #20 on: October 04, 2021, 10:48:00 PM »
Dennis,
Iíve always used hexane to remove tape residue, let the paid cure for a few days then wipe the residue off with a paper towel dipped in hexane, Iíve also used naphtha in the same manner.

Mikey

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #21 on: October 05, 2021, 07:23:28 AM »
Even more importantly, how would they hold up over a couple years of flight? All that castor and synth oil trying to seep in anywhere possible... they may very well look amazing. I'd be curious for how long

Understandable, however, like with all IC models including R/C pattern ships and CL, one has to make sure there's no openings where spent fuel can find it's way into unprotected areas.

The auto two part is an excellent start, but I'm guessing most coat the immediate engine and tank areas with an Epoxy, as I do.

The benefit of finishing all control surfaces prier to assembly has great advantages however, I do silk plus use resin in these hing areas prier to assembly, so these areas are protected before painting.

My hanger queens are built with no special secret materials, the same products as just about everyone else. I strongly believe the lasting protection is from the final clear coat. Yes, plenty of wax helps.

When I was a kid, I built a Thunderbird which lasted a good number of years with a half dozen flights on weekends over these years. Aero Gloss dope finish brushed actually and it went the distance.

Our models did hold up quite well for the limited experience we had as kids.

I sometimes really wish I had more interest in flying, but I honestly don't. And I don't avoid flying deliberately.

I fly my Ringmaster, converted to a P-40, and it's enjoyable. Certainly not what the pattern guys are doing, but I'm fine with my P-40, for now.

I was going to fire up the Stuka, but it got sold just a few days ago. If the Mig-3 doesn't sell soon, I'll put it in the air.
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If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #22 on: October 05, 2021, 07:29:49 AM »
Mike,
I tried the naphtha and it started to wipe color so I stopped. Took some Windex and 400 sand paper to the area then sprayed the clear coat, looks fine. Not sure we ever looked that close at the tape lines before it seems to show up when you candle the surface. I don't remember Windy or anyone else making any comments about tape residue? Maybe adhesives on these tapes have changed and are more leaky then prior tape adhesives. If we use the auto tapes would that be cleaner? Do then come in 1" wide? I have the thin stripping tape but never saw anything bigger then 1/4".

Best,    DennisT

Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #23 on: October 05, 2021, 08:10:24 AM »
Mike,
I tried the naphtha and it started to wipe color so I stopped. Took some Windex and 400 sand paper to the area then sprayed the clear coat, looks fine. Not sure we ever looked that close at the tape lines before it seems to show up when you candle the surface. I don't remember Windy or anyone else making any comments about tape residue? Maybe adhesives on these tapes have changed and are more leaky then prior tape adhesives. If we use the auto tapes would that be cleaner? Do then come in 1" wide? I have the thin stripping tape but never saw anything bigger then 1/4".

Best,    DennisT

Den,

I believe the 3M fine line plastic/vinyl green tape is still available in many widths even 1"?

You know I did custom graphics on cars and vans and I never used anything wider than the .5" tapes for paint lines. 

There are "tricks" where you use normal masking tape applied close to the tape line, this gets put on first. Then the .25" plastic tape is applied at the paint line and over the edge of the masking tape.

The wider the tape, the more difficult it is to do a radius. Enter the blue tape which will do a corner quite well.

Charles
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If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #24 on: October 06, 2021, 10:57:23 PM »
Dennis,
If it was removing paint you did the right thing, it shouldnít do that.  Every stunt and R/C models Iíve built over the years.  Iíve always wiped then down with hexane before spraying the clear just to make sure the tape residue was removed.  Granted, most were painted with Sig dope and cleared with Sig dope, but a few were done in K&B Epoxy paint and I did the same thing just to make sure.

Later,
Mike Pratt

Offline MikeyPratt

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Re: Removing masking tape residue?
« Reply #25 on: November 03, 2021, 02:45:51 PM »
Dennis,
Iíve always used hexane (foam bond thinner) to remove tape residue, let the pait cure for a few days then wipe the residue off with a paper towel dipped in hexane, Iíve also used naphtha in the same manner.

Mikey


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