Author Topic: refinish an old airplane (Read 9772 times)

dave siegler · « **on:** October 21, 2013, 04:49:14 PM »

I was given a very nice nobler that my brother got at a swap meet. It is in real good shape, but the silkspan is stating to split.

It is a single color bright orange and I have to build a new cowl and a few little things on the fuse to fix.

I would like to recover and refinish it but I have the sneaking suspicion that the bright orange I see is Aerogloss international orange.

Since aerogloss realy isn't dope, How do I proceed?

Robertc · « **Reply #1 on:** October 22, 2013, 01:41:02 PM »

Don't think it will be an issue with AeroGloss on the bottom. Brodak or Sig on top has worked fine for me, but not the other way around.

55chevr · « **Reply #2 on:** October 22, 2013, 03:03:42 PM »

If old paint is adhering well to a surface you can leave it as long you cover it with a compatible paint. It has been there for 20 years and not lifted. It has to be scuffed to give it tooth. I have used a 2 part epoxy primer over lacquer and it seals it for just about any finish. I would caution against "Klean Strip"-ing a wood plain as it is tough to neutralize stripper that has soaked into soft wood. If you sand with anything coarser then 400 it will require a lot paint to fill the scratches.

Joe

dave siegler · « **Reply #3 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:08:11 PM »

Nose has some damage to be repaired

big split on inboard wing covered with Fascal?

dave siegler · « **Reply #4 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:09:27 PM »

Anyone recognize the number?

dave siegler · « **Reply #5 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:10:14 PM »

more damage on the nose and no lower cowl. OS 35FP seems fine. Will need a muffler

dave siegler · « **Reply #6 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:11:04 PM »

paper on stab and rudder real brittle

dave siegler · « **Reply #7 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:12:40 PM »

More damage

dave siegler · « **Reply #8 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:14:22 PM »

Should I just fly it first?

John Sunderland · « **Reply #9 on:** October 22, 2013, 09:40:35 PM »

If it is flyable...I would take it for a spin first to see if it hunts/ has incidence issues, check for warps, pull test it...and it most surely has wide gaps in the hinge line. Those will need to be sealed. It looks like it was probably well built for its time but judging by the sistered on stuff going on with the nose ...It would appear to have been a shaker too! Dont invest much time in a finish if it doesnt fly well or is not trimmable.

dave siegler · « **Reply #10 on:** October 23, 2013, 10:56:25 AM »

one big split

john e. holliday · « **Reply #11 on:** October 23, 2013, 11:14:22 AM »

As stated earlier, fly it first. Patch what needs patching. Why go into a complete refinish if it doesn't fly well?

dave siegler · « **Reply #12 on:** October 25, 2013, 08:04:25 PM »

patched it up up and waiting for the wind to die off. The motor is a OS MAX-I 35, not an FP. What kind of power does that have? The venturi has a wooden plug restricting 50% of the airflow

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #13 on:** October 26, 2013, 06:35:14 PM »

Ty...In a secondary post, he stated that it was not a .35FP, but a Max-I .35. That's not a .35S! Those are olde, and I don't think they are great stunt engines. Maybe better to repower it during a rebuild, tho maybe it would work with a low pitch prop and a suitable venturi restrictor?

My first thought was that the Lat/Lon numbers might correspond to somebody's homeland. I'm no navigator, but I'm thinking that N 90 deg. is somewhere close to Santa's workshop. The E 32 is a problem, too, I looked. Russia?I'm thinkin' that it might be an AMA # or MAAC #, cutup into a private joke by somebody who knew navigation better than me.

Steve

dave siegler · « **Reply #14 on:** October 26, 2013, 07:19:48 PM »

Don't know the guy was from the Tulsa area. Brother got it at a swap years ago and didn't really want it. The guy was a old guy and really did not want to take it home. The numbers I don't know but they are hand inked.

Mike Lauerman · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2013, 03:34:41 PM »

Tulsa, OK? Hell, that's Rig Jackson's old #.

I've heard tell ol' Rig would leave plane and lines at a flying site, just not to have to take 'em home.
He used to 'juggle' his AMA# to confuse nosy police in case of a flyaway, don't know if it worked...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #16 on:** December 23, 2013, 01:20:07 PM »

Haven't tried this stuff yet, but from what I can tell it's totally the way to go...

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=12018.0

dave siegler · « **Reply #17 on:** December 13, 2014, 02:48:08 PM »

This project has finally made it up to the top of the stack. Time flys, and I had other planes to use when the weather was good.

The goal is to patch it up and fly it, It may not be worth a full refinish

The big problem is the tank does not pass a leak test ( with air)

What is the process ( what is the minimum I have to cut?) to get at the tank?

I have a bunch of time off till the new year.

Bill Little · « **Reply #18 on:** February 06, 2015, 01:13:12 PM »

Hi Dave,

Ty called my name in an earlier post about the stripper we found. We get it at Wal Mart and it is called "Dad's Stripper". Leaving it on longer will take off more, less time takes off less. We have taken models back to bare wood. It does attack clear canopies so mask those off. A good wipe with lacquer thinner is all we have needed before starting over on the new finish.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

frank mccune · « **Reply #19 on:** February 07, 2015, 06:48:35 AM »

Hi Dave:

I am in the same position as you and I too am refinishing an older stunter. I too discovered an air leak in the tank but I got lucky and it was the air vent that was located on the TOP of the tank. This was resoldered and all is well. I do not think that this plane was ever flown due to this problem! The old solder joint was a "cold joint" that was defective from the start.

Today, I will flush the tank and rebuild the cowl. I am happy that I did not have to remove the tank!

My plane has an "ugly" colour scheme that I may replace. It is a dull red with a dull green! AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG! I can spray a camo job on the plane in less than 10 minutes that looks much better! Lol

Good luck with your project,

Frank

dave siegler · « **Reply #20 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:57:00 PM »

I used ZEP strip professional, it has methyl chloride and it worked fine. Had the wings stripped in about 6 hrs.

the tank has been a problem and that is still not solved.