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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: John Craig on May 31, 2016, 04:05:58 AM

Title: Red Lead
Post by: John Craig on May 31, 2016, 04:05:58 AM
Is this product of any value for the same purpose?


3M™ Acryl-White Putty, 14.5 ounce Tube, 05095  = $25.00
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Avaiojet on May 31, 2016, 06:38:22 AM
Is this product of any value for the same purpose?


3M™ Acryl-White Putty, 14.5 ounce Tube, 05095  = $25.00

John,

I've used a bit of putty/filler over primer for nicks and areas, especially on the flap ends where I pin my last hinge. I also used it to skim the canopy area where it's attached.

I've mentioned this in a few Threads and Posted photos of the product.

What I use dries immediately and doesn't add a great deal of weight.

Here's the canopy skim on the Mig-3.

Charles
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Avaiojet on June 01, 2016, 05:49:53 AM
Might as well drop in a photo of the  finished canopy area. You can see the tape edge was left or never feathered.
 
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Mark Scarborough on June 01, 2016, 08:35:15 AM
Charles,
pretty sure thats not the same product, therefore your input is not answering his question. Besides, didnt you use microballoons and epoxy? or was that just the wing fillets

The white 3M product is similar to the "green" or "red" filler, it is adequate to fill small scratch type imperfections, it is NOT appropriate for use as a fillet or to cover large areas.
By looking at the manufactures product sheet, it appears that it should be acceptable with Laquer type finish products, but be advised that if you apply it to heavily, or over to large an area it will shrink back over time and defeat the purpose. So used as intended, to fix minor imperfections like scratchs, or the like, It should be suitable
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Mike Haverly on June 01, 2016, 09:49:59 AM
John, I am pretty sure that product has nothing to do with "red lead".  I read the mfg. product description and it looks like it would work for small scratches and dings prior to painting, not for fillets or canopies.

Here is what I have been using for quite a few years.  http://www.pbejobbers.com/product-spot-putty-red-1-tube-lacquer_39093.aspx

Mark is correct, over large areas most products will shrink to the point they are useless. 
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Randy Powell on June 01, 2016, 09:50:58 AM
Yea, it's a glazing compound. I try not to use it at all. I use a catalyzed product that will not shrink. It just works better and you don't have issues with shrinking or adhesion. Just another thing to go wrong.
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Ken Burdick on June 01, 2016, 10:03:34 AM
Randy,
did you get your shirt back at the nwr?

Ken

(sorry for the off topic)
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Mark Scarborough on June 01, 2016, 10:22:27 AM
Randy,
did you get your shirt back at the nwr?

Ken

(sorry for the off topic)
Shirt? was that a brown kind of checkered shirt? I gave it to John at the end of the day as it was sitting by my battery box
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: john e. holliday on June 01, 2016, 03:44:27 PM
Hey Mark,  you did clean your plane with it first? LL~ LL~
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Mark Scarborough on June 01, 2016, 07:03:38 PM
Hey Mark,  you did clean your plane with it first? LL~ LL~
No, all there was on mhy plane was bugs,, I cleaned John Leidle plane, its a Merco 60 powered beast, I saw him using tons of papertowels, and my concern for the enviroment took over,, wasting all that paper,,
Title: Re: Red Lead
Post by: Howard Rush on June 02, 2016, 12:34:05 AM
I use a catalyzed product that will not shrink. It just works better and you don't have issues with shrinking or adhesion. Just another thing to go wrong.

Here's a picture of U -Pol Dolphin Glaze, the stuff Randy recommends.  It's polyester resin stuff with benzoyl peroxide hardener.  It works nicely, but the 50:1 ratio makes the hardener a little hard to measure for small quantities, even with a .01-gram-resolution scale.  It hardens quickly, so one only wants to mix a small quantity at a time.  The uncatalyzed green stuff shown also works well for filling little dings and scratches.  It dries fast, so you gotta be quick.  The tube dries up before you can use very much.  The top goes bad, exacerbating the drying-up problem.  I squirt solvent into the tube with a syringe from time to time and keep the tube in a plastic bag to extend its life.