Author Topic: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite (Read 5026 times)

Motorman · « **on:** March 03, 2016, 02:53:35 PM »

Just used polyspan and polyspan lite for the first time. I must say I am completely disappointed with polyspan lite.

First I used regular polyspan from Tom Morris on a 1/2a sheet wing and tail and was very pleased with the results. The cloth came on a roll and layed down nice and flat as I brushed on the dope thinner and I wrapped 3/4" around the LE & TE no problems. Looking forward to the fill coats.

Then I moved to polyspan Lite from Larry Davidson on my Thunder gazer build. Did the stab and the flaps to see how it goes before doing the wing and glad I did. The cloth comes folded up and the creases do not go away when you brush it on. Yes, I tried pulling them out and they just won't go away. Also, it wrinkles up for no reason in allot of places on flat surfaces and you can't get it to smooth out. Totally frustrating. Now I'm looking at allot of sanding to flatten the surface and bare spots where the creases were sanded away. Have to fix all that so there goes the weight savings.

Needless to say I'm using regular Polyspan on the wing, Stay away from polyspan lite!

MM

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #1 on:** March 03, 2016, 03:39:33 PM »

Quote from: Motorman on March 03, 2016, 02:53:35 PM

Just used polyspan and polyspan lite for the first time. I must say I am completely disappointed with polyspan lite.

First I used regular polyspan from Tom Morris on a 1/2a sheet wing and tail and was very pleased with the results. The cloth came on a roll and layed down nice and flat as I brushed on the dope thinner and I wrapped 3/4" around the LE & TE no problems. Looking forward to the fill coats.

Then I moved to polyspan Lite from Larry Davidson on my Thunder gazer build. Did the stab and the flaps to see how it goes before doing the wing and glad I did. The cloth comes folded up and the creases do not go away when you brush it on. Yes, I tried pulling them out and they just won't go away. Also, it wrinkles up for no reason in allot of places on flat surfaces and you can't get it to smooth out. Totally frustrating. Now I'm looking at allot of sanding to flatten the surface and bare spots where the creases were sanded away. Have to fix all that so there goes the weight savings.

Needless to say I'm using regular Polyspan on the wing, Stay away from polyspan lite!

MM

M M,
I'm disappointed as well. I do want to try this polyspan light. Did you shrink the polyspan with heat before brushing on the dope? On Larry's post, it looks like Larry shrunk the polyspan light first then applied the Micro Lite over that.

I would do the same and use polyspan to save the headache.

Later,
Mikey

Motorman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 03, 2016, 05:00:59 PM »

There were no open bays. I brushed on thinner to stick it to balsa sheet on stab and flaps that had been given 3 coats of nitrate prior.

I wonder if I can shrink the wrinkles with heat after it dries.

MM

Larry Renger · « **Reply #3 on:** March 04, 2016, 08:10:32 AM »

I did indeed fully shrink the polyspan lite before doing the film overlay. I also experienced wrinkles on the wood areas and had to sand them out. Finally, the stuff is so thin that the adhesive soaks through and sticks to the iron. Clearly, the technique is still a work in progress.

Despite the glitches in the system, the final covering job is awfully nice!

Next time, I will try doping the tissue down only at the extreme edges, shrink it and then finish doping down over the rest of the wood surfaces.

Also, Mod Podge works great with Coverlite tissue, but may not be a winner with Polyspan because of the oozing problem.

I will be flying my Ringmaster at VSC, y'all come and oooh and aaah!

Motorman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 04, 2016, 12:38:35 PM »

Well good news, I used the monokote heat gun, no nozzle, and was able to shrink the wrinkles out of it. I put the polyspan on with nitrate dope and found if I heat an area then come back to it in a few seconds it shrinks better on balsa sheet areas. All this because Davidson refuses to ship the cloth in a roll. I know this stuff is probably available at Jo-Ann fabrics and I can roll it off the bolt crease free, have to check that out.

So, back to plan A, going to tackle the wing tomorrow with polyspan lite.

MM

Larry Renger · « **Reply #5 on:** March 04, 2016, 11:00:29 PM »

Great news on using the heat gun. I didn't think of it! Little by little we will learn how to use this stuff if we keep talking to each other.

Back " in the day " "SECRET TECHNIQUES" were the big thing. Thankfully, that attitude has reversed! We are such a small and, sadly, shrinking group that getting everyone the latest "skinney" is the thing to do! A much better attitude, but kind of late. $:-\$

Larry Renger · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2016, 07:47:30 PM »

Late breaking news, my Ringmaster netted 13 appearance points at VSC!

Also, the model skidded in inverted after a flameout in the cloverleaf, but the covering came out with only the faintest scuff mark, no tearing.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #7 on:** March 19, 2016, 11:17:43 AM »

Glad to hear the covering held up. By the way the stuff from the fabric store is heavier than the Poly-Span from Stunt Hanger Hobby. It is more like heavy weight silk span.

Author Topic: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite (Read 5026 times)

Motorman

Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

MikeyPratt

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

Motorman

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

Larry Renger

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

Motorman

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

Larry Renger

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

Larry Renger

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite

john e. holliday

Re: Polyspan Vs Polyspan Lite