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Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: Will Moore on March 29, 2011, 05:00:06 PM
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I'm interested in doing panel lines on my Electric Shark.
I've got water based automotive color trim over white, and I'm going to
finish it off with 2 part urethane clear.
Here's the question: what do I use for panel lines so it won't bleed when I shoot it with the poly.
I've done test panels, and magic marker bleeds. Is there a paint line tool I can use, or a
marking pen that won't bleed out when I shoot with poly clear?
I need specific name brand, and technique if possible. Thanks
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rapidograph pens with indian ink - you still need a dry coat of clear on first then wet coats.
also - when you are doing your lines - you need to keep the ruler (or whatever straight edge) you use off the surface so the ink doesnt bleed under the ruler - use a couple of layers of masking tape about 1/8" from the edge - the keeps it up just enough.
for curved areas like turtle decks etc - I use a flexible plastic ruler - I think the grand is Staedtler
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So , if I mist the clear first and then lay down a heavier coat, would that stabilize lines drawn by magic marker pens as well?
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if you use a "dry" dusting coat - it should LIMIT the bleeding - I have pics of my dreadnought that I used the top flite panel pen on - and then painted in auto clear.....there were possible 2 of over 100 lines that got a little fuzzy.
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Any black pen that writes on CD's or DVD's -
That is perfect - indian ink is ok but you need to '"baby it" - treat it so carefully before you lay down your mist coat of dope.
I like to be a little brisker with it- cd markers are ideal and in a range of size tips - just when you shoot your clear - dust the 1st coat - wait for it to flash off 15 -20 then hit it again.
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Top Flite also makes a panel marker pen that I have found works good. If you make a mistake it erases with a touch of alcohol or sandpaper like India Ink but is easier to apply without smudging. Only drawback is the nib only comes in one width but unless you are getting widely creative inkline wise that should be enough. 8)
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Hi.
I like the technical drawing pens, like Rotring Rapidograph and Isograph. It's better to use ink that is ment for mylar drafting film, it sticks and covers better and is easier to handle when dry. It says "MF film" in the Rotring refill bottle.
If you cannot find ink that is ment for mylar film, you can try to mix VERY little dishwasher detergent to normal ink. It kills the surface tension and makes the ink stick better. VERY little means that you stick the sharp end of a pin into detergent and then mix it into the pen's reservoir.
With ink you really need patience, first to move the pen slow enough and then to wait it dry.
If you plan to sand/buff the clear coat, I strongly recommend to spray all inklines with an airbrush/narrow spray pattern and letting it dry well before the final coats.
For panel lines, I've used 1mm wide pen and for rivets 0,35mm. L
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I just want to thank you all for your comments and suggestions.
Very helpful !
It's nice to know there is always help on this site, for projects ongoing.
And such a nice group of people who love this hobby as I do.