Author Topic: Painting the P-40-ish/ARF Nobler (Read 17473 times)

wwwarbird · « **on:** December 17, 2015, 10:03:53 PM »

I'm finally into painting the ARF Nobler/P-40 bash project so I'll be adding all the gory details as I go here until it's finished. Hopefully it helps or inspires a few folks with some info and ideas for their projects.

Except for the final clear this entire model will be painted with an airbrush, my cheapo Badger 350. Monday night I sprayed the white on the rudder, last night the red stripes were added for the proper total of 13 stripes. Tonight was masking and shooting the blue. Colors are stock Brodak Insignia White, Madrid Red, and Insignia Blue. I painted all the tail details first this time before mounting the elevators so I wouldn't have to work around them, made things waaaay easier. Next will be mounting the elevators and then doing the entire bottom of the plane in Randolph Neutral Grey. The top will eventually be done in Brodak Olive Drab. I've got a few other ideas up my sleeve too, we'll see how it goes...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #1 on:** December 17, 2015, 10:27:22 PM »

I like it!

Dane Martin · « **Reply #2 on:** December 21, 2015, 01:16:30 PM »

DANG!!! that's purty!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #3 on:** December 21, 2015, 08:06:07 PM »

Over the weekend I got the elevators mounted, drilled and pinned the hinges with round toothpicks, and filled the toothpick holes after pinning. I planned on giving the filler spots a quick sand out tonight and then shooting all the grey on the belly. Not to be though, one of the tiny spots of filler fell out during sanding so I had to refill it and now let it dry overnight. Hopefully tomorrow night...SIGH.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #4 on:** December 22, 2015, 08:46:33 PM »

Grey!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #5 on:** December 23, 2015, 10:15:55 PM »

...and O.D.!

Now if it wasn't for this dang Christmas thing...

Randy Powell · « **Reply #6 on:** December 24, 2015, 08:15:25 PM »

It's green.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #7 on:** December 25, 2015, 12:18:41 AM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on December 24, 2015, 08:15:25 PM

It's green.

Hey Randy,, ITS GREEN

wwwarbird · « **Reply #8 on:** December 25, 2015, 12:30:52 AM »

Yes Randy, here's how to ruin a perfectly grey airplane...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #9 on:** December 25, 2015, 12:36:15 AM »

I'm gonna go back and try to bring down the O.D./Grey break line here though, just doesn't look quite right. I'll be painting in the exhaust details yet too. All along I've had the shark mouth planned for this thing but IDK at his point. I'm kind of liking it just as it is, the "December 7th" look. Hafta see I guess. $:-\$

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #10 on:** December 25, 2015, 12:39:28 AM »

man I like it ,, thanks for the closeups of the nose, it looks well prepared indeed,, thanks for sharing

and Randy,, its green,, and it looks GOOD green,,

wwwarbird · « **Reply #11 on:** December 25, 2015, 12:49:11 AM »

Thanks Mark, I've definitely tested the limits of my abilities with this thing. Got more in store though...if I can pull it off anyway.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #12 on:** December 25, 2015, 01:10:51 PM »

I'd like the shark mouth, but that's up to you. It looks very cool in any case.

Mark, it's olive drab. I guess that's sorta green.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #13 on:** December 25, 2015, 05:09:02 PM »

Best of all, the power will be NITRO!

Steve

Randy Powell · « **Reply #14 on:** December 25, 2015, 09:41:14 PM »

Neanderthal.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #15 on:** December 25, 2015, 10:07:29 PM »

From the very beginning on this build I've envisioned a certain extreme paint effect I've wanted to do on this plane. Today I spent nine straight hours in the shop attempting various tricks. I had planned on having some random areas of the plane looking like the paint was "burning" away right down to the bare aluminum skin. The idea was to simulate a feeling of extreme speed, like images seen in the old 40's cartoons.

I know exactly the look I'm after, and I know exactly how to do it, but my cheapo Badger 350 airbrush simply isn't up to the task. My ultra fine tip isn't nearly ultra fine enough to get the proper effect, at least to my satisfaction. I need to get a nice defined pattern down to about a 1/4" inch or even less but I can only get a muddy line down to about a 1/2". Pretty disappointing after spending all the time getting to this point. Right now I'm not ready to go out and blow a bunch of cash on a new airbrush just to get there either. Anyway, the way things panned out the next session will now be sanding out and covering up everything I did today, aborting the original mission and getting it all back to the standard O.D. and Grey like it was 24 hours ago. Bummer.

I almost didn't even add these photos, pretty embarrassing stuff, there's a whole lotta details that I don't like here...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #16 on:** December 26, 2015, 01:48:59 PM »

Man, that's cool as hell!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #17 on:** December 26, 2015, 02:28:35 PM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on December 26, 2015, 01:48:59 PM

Man, that's cool as hell!

Thanks, but I guess I didn't agree. I do think the effect looks a little bit better in the photos than it does close up. Also, you're not seeing some of the random crap looking paint spatters here and there. They're small, but they're there. Either way, it just didn't come out nearly as well as what I had pictured, or as well as I think I could have done with better equipment. Because of all that it would have bothered me every time I looked at the darn thing.

As it is I've just now finished sanding it all and repainting the grey on the bottom. Next step will be re-shooting the O.D. on the top. The good thing here is that the colors cover very well and it's all being done with the airbrush so I'm not packing on a bunch of extra weight throughout this whole fiasco. I have learned what doesn't work too.

Along with the fin/rudder treatment I'm still planning some alterations to the insignias that will help give it a "speedy" look. I think I'm going to skip the shark mouth too, I've always liked the plain look of the early war P-40's. At this point I'm just through with banging my head on this one and just want to get on to the next project. It's just gonna be what it's gonna be.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #18 on:** December 26, 2015, 02:31:06 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on December 25, 2015, 09:41:14 PM

Neanderthal.

But way cooler than a fan motor.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #19 on:** December 29, 2015, 02:31:49 PM »

So, goop powered and with a ton of paint on it. Well, it will be fuel proof.

Naw, I think it looks pretty good, Wayne. But if you didn't like it, then by all means fix it. I know what you mean. My plane awaiting clear suddenly has a lifted fillet. So, looks like I will be fixing that before the clear. Also because I don't want to look at it every time I go to fly it.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #20 on:** December 29, 2015, 02:49:40 PM »

Wayne,, dont quit yet,,
have you tried more thinner, and less air pressure? to get a thinner line without splatters and spit spots,, thin more,,, cut your air pressure from an "angry hiss" to a quiet whisper, get your tip up close to the surface and draw it in lightly

though, If I recall the Badger 350 is a single action air brush correct,,
pretty sure its not going to do what you want, its fine for painting areas, but without the control of the fluid and air seperatly, its tough to make it do what you want,,

thats why the Paasche VL is my go to, dual action, fine tip, and when you get pissed off and throw it against the wall you can get repair parts cheaply,, LOL

Avaiojet · « **Reply #21 on:** December 29, 2015, 04:03:52 PM »

As Wayne said, we aren't up close to really see it.

However, from what I see in these photos, the model looks good! Really good!

Finish doing the other areas and you may not want to remove anything.

Nice job so far!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #22 on:** December 29, 2015, 07:45:26 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on December 29, 2015, 02:49:40 PM

Wayne,, dont quit yet,,
have you tried more thinner, and less air pressure? to get a thinner line without splatters and spit spots,, thin more,,, cut your air pressure from an "angry hiss" to a quiet whisper, get your tip up close to the surface and draw it in lightly

though, If I recall the Badger 350 is a single action air brush correct,,
pretty sure its not going to do what you want, its fine for painting areas, but without the control of the fluid and air seperatly, its tough to make it do what you want,,

thats why the Paasche VL is my go to, dual action, fine tip, and when you get pissed off and throw it against the wall you can get repair parts cheaply,, LOL

Thanks for the tips Mark.

Yes, the Badger 350 is a single action airbrush. I've never used a dual action one and I don't know jack about them. I wasn't sure, but I did wonder if thinning more and lowering the air pressure some might help. I haven't given it a serious try yet though, I was too pissed off the other night and had to just walk away before I stomped on the whole thing.

I'm currently at about 60 thinner/40 paint, maybe even slightly thinner, and shooting at very close to 30psi. Not sure how low I can feasibly go with the pressure but I can crank it down to basically whatever I want. I have wondered if I might need to go WAY low with it. Mine is a 33 gallon tank though and watching the guage it seems like there is a fair amount of pressure fluctuation when I initially hit the go button. I've found over time that running it 30psi I've at least got some consistency in what to expect. I did try thinning things just slightly more with the same air pressure and doing some test panel shooting. What I found then was if I got close in enough to attempt any kind of a thin line it wanted to run immediately. If I backed out at all then the fan got way too wide for what I'm trying to achieve. I do have all three available tips for the 350 but as far as a pattern adjustment I don't feel like there is a whole lot of difference between them, maybe some, but not much.

As of yesterday I've already got it all back to the O.D. and grey. I am sort of debating having another go at it now that I've cooled off, it's not like I have to have this thing done tomorrow. I am really sick of working on this thing though.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #23 on:** December 29, 2015, 09:42:40 PM »

Dude, My Avenger went through a real trial in the finishing process. It came out better the second time.
the problems you are describing are patent issues with a single action gun. to do drop shadows, ddetails and special effects you really need a dual action. Envision that surge of air you get? you depress the trigger and the excess air goes pffftt,, and its gone. THEN you start to slide the trigger back while holding it down, as you gradually ease it back ( yes it will take practice and developing a feel) you gradually begin to get fluid in a quantity you can control! seldom will you ever have full air, and full paint at the same time. The key is that you can CONTROL it, its just like flying a ringmaster versus a full blown Impact or SV-11 , You CAN make the Ringmaster fly the pattern, but the Impact will be easier to fly accuratly.
If you want my opinion, as much as you would like to implement this effect you have in mind, you may be better served to get a dual action airbrush, the VL is like 60 bucks I think if you shop around, and use it to apply some exhaust streaks ( lightly, dont get carried away) . Do some insignia, stars and bars,, maybe some shaded panel lines ( they are a blast to do, research how skins are put on airplanes for a reference) gun muzzle smudges,, and get some experience with the airbrush first before experimenting ON and airframe for the first time, just my two cents worth buddy, its a cool looking plane, sometimes letting the subtle shine through is better too,,

anyhow, do as you see fit,
Incidently, that surge of air can also be fixed with a better regulator,, but its some $$ to get a good one

wwwarbird · « **Reply #24 on:** December 29, 2015, 10:40:07 PM »

Thanks again Mark, good info.

I did just go down and do some more experimenting and yeah, this Badger just ain't gonna do the job. I thinned the paint even more and then tried 20, 15, 10, and somewhere less than 10psi with no real difference anywhere from what I was getting before. Best I can get down to is about a 3/8" wide line with at least that much fine spatter on each side. I'm going to have to think about getting a new airbrush but I'm not sure I'll want to educate myself with it on this plane.
I'm familiar with and agree on all the other possible airbrush details too, years ago I did a TON of high end plastic modeling with all the weathering etc. Back then I used pastel chalk for almost all of it though. Done well on our models the airbrush details really add to the cool factor in my opinion.

On another note Randy might be happy after all, I've got a new possibility for the shark mouth. The head scratching continues...

JIM Nordin · « **Reply #25 on:** December 29, 2015, 10:41:01 PM »

Wayne sounds like your getting dry tip and or spitting . Thinning might help . One thing you don't want to do is have the airbrush pointing at the plane when yoU hit the trigger !! Point the brush away from the plane hit the trigger it will blow the paint of the tip leave the air going then go to the plane and feed the paint in !

wwwarbird · « **Reply #26 on:** December 29, 2015, 11:01:38 PM »

I hear ya Jim, and pretty much agree with your thoughts. At this point I've tried about every paint/thinner/psi combination possible, no significant changes with any of it. With some of the areas I'm wanting to get into with this effect starting a stroke by pointing away from the model isn't an option. Even so, with my experimenting, doing that doesn't make any difference anyway, the spatter stays constant through the entire paint stroke. That's one of the things that is consistent here. I'm with Mark on this one, if I want to do this (and do it right) I need a better airbrush.

JIM Nordin · « **Reply #27 on:** December 29, 2015, 11:29:42 PM »

A airbrush can be a wonderful thing or a complete paint in the patoot . I been airbrushing for over 10 years custom cars and motorcycles . But to be honest I wouldn't attempt paint a complete plane with one not because it can't be done just takes to long ! But for detail like the stripes it's perfect

Jim Scott · « **Reply #28 on:** December 30, 2015, 07:27:14 AM »

The plastic model guys get a feathered edge where they want it by using a mask that's lifted off the surface. They spray from the masked side toward the unmasked so the paint does not go under the mask. The mask can be lifted off the surface by using blue tack, masking tape rolled inside out, or that window putty from the hardware store that comes in rolls - anything that holds the mask far enough away. The closer the mask to the surface, the sharper the line. The ability of the airbrush to make a fine line isn't a factor.

The idea is here:

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEViX.54NWeWkAKeUnnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTByOHZyb21tBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1451513983/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.freeflight.org%2fDigestOnline%2fTechLibrary%2fCamouflage%2520Painting.pdf/RK=0/RS=2yB.t..oNbaYvMakSfBeMSImEQ8-

Randy Powell · « **Reply #29 on:** December 30, 2015, 10:15:10 AM »

This is more or less what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Paasche-VL-SET-Double-Action-Airbrush/dp/B00397TTTY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451495632&sr=8-2&keywords=paasche+airbrush

wwwarbird · « **Reply #30 on:** December 30, 2015, 06:50:48 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on December 30, 2015, 10:15:10 AM

This is more or less what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Paasche-VL-SET-Double-Action-Airbrush/dp/B00397TTTY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451495632&sr=8-2&keywords=paasche+airbrush

Thanks Randy. I see that they say it can be used as either a single or dual action. Can you get a super fine line in the single action mode with it?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #31 on:** December 30, 2015, 06:55:17 PM »

Quote from: Jim Scott on December 30, 2015, 07:27:14 AM

The plastic model guys get a feathered edge where they want it by using a mask that's lifted off the surface. They spray from the masked side toward the unmasked so the paint does not go under the mask. The mask can be lifted off the surface by using blue tack, masking tape rolled inside out, or that window putty from the hardware store that comes in rolls - anything that holds the mask far enough away. The closer the mask to the surface, the sharper the line. The ability of the airbrush to make a fine line isn't a factor.

The idea is here:

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEViX.54NWeWkAKeUnnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTByOHZyb21tBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1451513983/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.freeflight.org%2fDigestOnline%2fTechLibrary%2fCamouflage%2520Painting.pdf/RK=0/RS=2yB.t..oNbaYvMakSfBeMSImEQ8-

Yep, I've considered that too. I played that game on occasion back in my plastic modeling days so I'm familiar with it. Won't really work on this project though. Thanks anyway for the suggestion.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #32 on:** December 30, 2015, 08:25:32 PM »

Wayne,, once you use a dual action, you will not want to use a single action again, its not complicated, and actually it is far more intuitive than a single action is I promise,, and it even works with colors other than green,, just sayin

wwwarbird · « **Reply #33 on:** December 30, 2015, 09:23:10 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on December 30, 2015, 08:25:32 PM

,, and it even works with colors other than green,, just sayin

I see, that must be why Randy got one.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #34 on:** December 30, 2015, 09:39:40 PM »

Mark,

Is the VL that Randy linked in reply #29 here the same as the one you have?

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #35 on:** December 30, 2015, 10:59:47 PM »

Yes,, it is, though I gave that one to my brother, I now have an Iwata, and a THayer Chandler but they are both rather,, uh,, spendy for a hobbiest,, the Iwata is around $400

Randy Powell · « **Reply #36 on:** December 31, 2015, 02:38:43 PM »

I just picked up an Iwata (on clearance and reduced to $159). Nice brush.

I still have the VL. It's better for some stuff. The Iwata is great for making shadows and detail stuff.

JIM Nordin · « **Reply #37 on:** December 31, 2015, 07:29:36 PM »

Randy di you get the Eclipse ?

JIM Nordin · « **Reply #38 on:** December 31, 2015, 07:31:04 PM »

Quote from: JIM Nordin on December 31, 2015, 07:29:36 PM

Randy did you get the Eclipse ?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #39 on:** January 02, 2016, 10:37:09 PM »

Well tonight I got around to painting in the canopy and exhaust details. First were the exhaust stacks. I started the process by hand cutting some "stencils" to define the rounded ends of the "cowl" opening. Once applied those ends were then connected with tape, finishing the outline of the area to be painted. I gave the entire area a coat of black first and then immediately came back over it with a dark grey. I fogged the dark grey on at an angle from the front so I wouldn't get any of it in the exhaust openings. This way the "openings" were left black to help represent an actual opening. Then I repeated the same routine over the dark grey, but this time with a light grey to mimic the lighter color residue often seen on the full scale aircraft.

Here's the masking routine...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #40 on:** January 02, 2016, 10:41:43 PM »

...then painting, and the end result...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #41 on:** January 02, 2016, 10:52:14 PM »

Next was the canopy, taking THREE HOURS worth of masking time. Drawing out some patterns and hand cutting some stencils took a good chunk of that time. On somewhat complicated canopy frame work such as this I've found it really pays off to take your time and think about the sequence of your masking lines. One thing really does lead to another, try to "build in" reference points as you go. Working slowly, checking, looking, and double checking, and thinking ahead as you go can all make a big difference in the end result.

I used pretty much the same process as the exhaust detail work here. On my models I've always just sprayed a solid color of some sort for my canopy "glass" but this time I went for the fancy "fogged" treatment. It went pretty well but I think the overall result came out a bit dark, not contrasting as much as I would have liked with the Olive Drab.

Here we go masking...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #42 on:** January 02, 2016, 10:55:28 PM »

...cutting and applying stencils, and more masking...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #43 on:** January 02, 2016, 11:03:55 PM »

Here's an easy trick for making parallel lines...

Lay your first desired line, in this case it's the left hand black tape. Then "space" for your next with another tape in your width of choice(s). After that add your next desired line, here it's the right hand black tape. Then, remove your "spacing" tape(s) and you automatically have parallel lines...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #44 on:** January 02, 2016, 11:08:09 PM »

Painting and the end result. I'm hoping the canopy stands out just a bit more once the final clear is applied...

Randy Powell · « **Reply #45 on:** January 03, 2016, 01:35:11 PM »

OK, that's awesome.

TigreST · « **Reply #46 on:** January 03, 2016, 10:18:51 PM »

Is that Wild Bill Kelso behind the contols?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #47 on:** January 04, 2016, 06:34:50 PM »

Quote from: TigreST on January 03, 2016, 10:18:51 PM

Is that Wild Bill Kelso behind the contols?

Ha! I'd forgotten all about Kelso!

At this point I'm now committed to not messing with the airbrush "metal" treatment idea, at least for this model. Now that I've got the canopy and some of the other details done I don't want to risk having to go back and repaint any of it.

Kind of stuck at a standstill for now, waiting on some vinyl...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #48 on:** January 04, 2016, 10:02:26 PM »

Yeah, I'm digging this one, Wayne. Looks dang good. Nice work buddy!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #49 on:** January 05, 2016, 05:05:08 PM »

Very stylish.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #50 on:** January 06, 2016, 10:09:08 PM »

Not much going on other than a fair amount of thumb twiddling over the past few evenings, still waiting on the snail mail to bring the next piece of the puzzle. I did shoot a little clear over the canopy area and get the edges sanded smooth with some 1500. I also went around and touched up a few minor details but there wasn't much of it to deal with, which is good. The USPS tracking info tells me Monday, but I'm hoping for an early arrival.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #51 on:** January 07, 2016, 09:36:43 PM »

I'm watching this thread to see how it comes out Wayne. Better be up to your standards!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #52 on:** January 08, 2016, 09:16:38 PM »

Thanks Crist. Got the mail, back to work now...

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #53 on:** January 21, 2016, 08:26:57 PM »

Well?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #54 on:** January 21, 2016, 10:07:25 PM »

Yeah, I've definitely been slacking again on it. I've got everything on it and it's sitting in the shop prepped and all ready for final clear. I decided not to add any new pics until the heap is completely finished. I'm really not happy with the ink quality of the insignias I had made but they're on the plane and aren't coming back off. That disappointment kind of took the wind out of my sails the past week or so, well that and the food poisoning I was blessed with last Sunday night into Tuesday. Feeling better now, sneezing without fear, and plan on starting in with some clear this weekend.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #55 on:** January 22, 2016, 10:25:01 AM »

We are never happy with the final product.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #56 on:** January 22, 2016, 05:28:07 PM »

What do they say "finishes are never done, just abandoned".

wwwarbird · « **Reply #57 on:** January 22, 2016, 09:08:13 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on January 22, 2016, 05:28:07 PM

What do they say "finishes are never done, just abandoned".

Yep, an original quote from Mr. Powell I believe. I'm almost there.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #58 on:** January 23, 2016, 09:29:37 PM »

Not me. The quote was stolen from Windy Urtnowski.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #59 on:** January 24, 2016, 12:23:51 AM »

Oh, I guess that's just where I'd first heard it. Whatever the case, it seems to hold true every time.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #60 on:** January 24, 2016, 07:43:37 PM »

Pretty much.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #61 on:** January 26, 2016, 08:54:11 PM »

Finally got around to airbrushing some clear around the edges of the graphics tonight. This is just to make sure they get sealed down well and also help smooth the transition. I usually do two or three heavy but "dry" coats per session, let it dry overnight, and then feather sand with 1500. A couple more rounds of that and then it will be ready for a good overall final coat of clear, hopefully by the weekend. Sigh.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #62 on:** January 27, 2016, 09:02:46 PM »

One step forward, two steps back, the story of this build. Just below the canopy I had added some Kamikaze flag "kill" markings from Major Decal. They only come in waterslide but I figured I'd still be able to carefully "dry" spray a few clear coats over them and get away with it. I figured wrong.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #63 on:** January 27, 2016, 10:41:08 PM »

Bummer!

TigreST · « **Reply #64 on:** January 27, 2016, 11:59:30 PM »

Quote from: wwwarbird on January 27, 2016, 09:02:46 PM

One step forward, two steps back, the story of this build. Just below the canopy I had added some Kamikaze flag "kill" markings from Major Decal. They only come in waterslide but I figured I'd still be able to carefully "dry" spray a few clear coats over them and get away with it. I figured wrong.

Not sure what your issue is but.... You might try to put down some sticky tape over the damaged decal and see if it might lift the decal off, even with the clear coat over it. Work sometimes for the plastic model guys (like me).

Tony

wwwarbird · « **Reply #65 on:** January 28, 2016, 07:38:36 PM »

Quote from: TigreST on January 27, 2016, 11:59:30 PM

Not sure what your issue is but.... You might try to put down some sticky tape over the damaged decal and see if it might lift the decal off, even with the clear coat over it. Work sometimes for the plastic model guys (like me).

Tony

I tried the sticky tape idea first and it didn't phase them. I used to spray/seal decals all the time in my old plastic modeling days too, that's why I figured I'd be able to sneak up on this with some dry coats and have it work. Not to be, the thinned clear was a little too much, the decals wrinkled up and started to disintegrate almost immediately. After letting the mess dry overnight I just now finished sanding them off, feathering the area back in, and touching up the Olive Drab. That came out pretty well, thankfully the O.D. is a very forgiving color when it comes to touch up work. I've got a "Plan B" to get them back on there, it's just going to put me a couple more days behind before the final clear can go on. Around and around we go...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #66 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:29:24 PM »

Apparently, I'm just never supposed to finish this plane...

So, I got through the kill flag marking ordeal, getting that area all touched up and I've got them back on now. This time I added a piece of super thin clear vinyl over them, cut from the corner of a Sig U.S. Insignia sheet, so now the clear dope will go over them ok. After that, standing back and staring the whole thing down, it still needed something. A lot of the early P-40's had a large white I.D. number marking on the fuse sides. I decided to add that detail. I settled on the number 160, the number that was on the side of Lt George Welch's plane at Pearl Harbor, he was the first one in the air during the attack.

Anyway, I ordered a pair of the 160's in vinyl and was expecting them early last week. My buddy spaced out the order so they finally came just today. I scurried right down to put them on tonight, laying down a tape line for an alignment reference like I always do. Got'em on with a little soapy water and squeegeed them out just fine. When I pulled the reference tape line up it also took up a nice chunk of paint right between the 160 number and the canopy "glass" paint on the outboard side. F--K! I got out the 1500 again, sanded it down, and then hit the area with the airbrush. When that dries I'll feather it back in with 1500, give the 160's a few dry coats of clear, and the thing should finally be ready for the final clear.

The first pic here is from fixing up the area where the kill markings had gotten messed up. The other two are from tonight, fixing up the spot above the 160...

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #67 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:35:06 PM »

I'm learning a few things here.

I totally dig this plane, Wayne!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #68 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:45:08 PM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on February 05, 2016, 08:35:06 PM

I totally dig this plane, Wayne!

Thanks Clint. I'm pretty close to digging a hole for it!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #69 on:** February 05, 2016, 09:21:36 PM »

Yea, your getting down to the point were you just want it done. I completely understand.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #70 on:** February 06, 2016, 10:18:11 AM »

You must be kidding about digging a hole for it. If it is not up to your standards, send it to the old DOC. I'm used to imperfections. Just ask the guys that have seen my planes.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #71 on:** February 06, 2016, 01:53:32 PM »

Wayne,
Do you think that by using an airbrush, you are putting the dope on too dry, hence the pull up? I use an airbrush for my trim and I'm careful not to put on a light coat for the first coat. I think that a "wetter" coat will adhere better to the base color that way.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #72 on:** February 06, 2016, 02:03:10 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on February 06, 2016, 01:53:32 PM

Wayne,
Do you think that by using an airbrush, you are putting the dope on too dry, hence the pull up? I use an airbrush for my trim and I'm careful not to put on a light coat for the first coat. I think that a "wetter" coat will adhere better to the base color that way.

or better slower thinner,,

wwwarbird · « **Reply #73 on:** February 06, 2016, 11:30:04 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on February 06, 2016, 01:53:32 PM

Wayne,
Do you think that by using an airbrush, you are putting the dope on too dry, hence the pull up? I use an airbrush for my trim and I'm careful not to put on a light coat for the first coat. I think that a "wetter" coat will adhere better to the base color that way.

Nah, it must have just been a fluke little spot, I've been making sure to use plenty of thinner and everything through this paint job. I'm just chalking it up to Murphy's Law this time. It's gonna get DONE this next week, for sure, I think, unless, if...

Randy Powell · « **Reply #74 on:** February 07, 2016, 12:16:00 AM »

Yea, I was pulling tape on my classic plane and it pulled paint in a couple of spots. I have no idea why. Fine everywhere else.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #75 on:** February 08, 2016, 09:04:22 PM »

Well, I gave the whole thing a "heavy" coat of clear tonight with the airbrush. Roughly 60/40 thinner/clear with some retarder. If all still looks good when I get home from work tomorrow night I'm gonna get out the gun, load it up with more of the same recipe, and try to get the final clear on, finally.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #76 on:** February 09, 2016, 07:49:51 PM »

Just finished the final clear. Seems like it came out with about the normal amount of crap in it. Man, this thing really kicked my ass, I'm glad to finally have it at this stage. I'll post a bunch of pics once it's all assembled.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #77 on:** February 09, 2016, 08:30:13 PM »

tease

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #78 on:** February 12, 2016, 03:41:29 PM »

Wayne,
Yeah, it does look like a real POS!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #79 on:** February 12, 2016, 06:59:55 PM »

Still letting it all cure another day or two here before I start the final assembly. I used a lot of thinner and a fair amount of retarder in the final clear and it's pretty cool downstairs in the shop. It's plenty dry but yesterday it still seemed just a bit soft so I'm holding off yet on getting my grubby paws all over it. Soon though...

wwwarbird · « **Reply #80 on:** February 16, 2016, 09:01:26 PM »

IT'S DONE!

http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/p-40-bash-is-complete!/

t michael jennings · « **Reply #81 on:** February 22, 2016, 06:08:08 PM »

Wayne,

The P-40 looks great. Keep at it.

What is the brand and name of your yellow tape that you are using?
For example, the yellow tape around the engine exhaust.

Thanks for the info.

T Michael Jennings
Knoxville, TN.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #82 on:** February 22, 2016, 07:48:31 PM »

Quote from: t michael jennings on February 22, 2016, 06:08:08 PM

Wayne,

The P-40 looks great. Keep at it.

T-Mike,

Keep at it? It's actually all finished, just click the link I added in the above Reply #81 or you can find it in the Open Forum.

The yellow tape is "Frogtape" and can be found at most places that sell household paints. It comes in a round Tupperware type container. It is GREAT stuff, low tack but leaves a real nice edge. Another bonus is that you can kind of see through it which comes in very handy at times. There is green Frogtape available too but it doesn't work nearly as well for our purposes.