"Fuel Resistant" is a more appropriate term than "fuel proof". Most everybody around the PNW has returned to using Butyrate Dope with an automotive 2 part clear coat. Some have used 2 part auto paint after a few coats of clear dope, but one of the problems is often repairing after crash damage repairs. The other problem is weight. The good thing is that a few coats and it's done. I'd say that sort of finish is most appropriate for fully sheeted models with no open bays to shrink with clear dope. Mike and Howard seem to be quite good at repairing this sort of finish. I don't think PW ever damages his planes...  Steve

Im my models I have never used anything but dope.  I have glanced through a number of posts on here and I see that Rustolium and Duplicolor are fuelproof alternatives.   My primary experience with paintine comes from 12 years in autobody work.  I know automotive base coat/clear coat paint very well.  Anyone used it on models?  I can only assume its fuelproof, but what about weight?

   The clear is generally fuel-proof. Many people have used it and the weight is apparently reasonable, but you cannot (and do not need to) apply the same volume. The colors cover very well from what I have seen, so only a dusting is required, and the clear is generally around an ounce. One thing that surprised me about the clear is how much thinner is used and how it is about the consistency of *alcohol* when you spray it (at least the stuff Jim and Phil used, and I think Phil first tried for airplanes).

   I use epoxy colors and car clear. This is generally a bit lighter than an equivalent dope finish and lasts about a million times longer.

     Brett

Interesting. What brand of epoxy are you using? I'm not familiar with the epoxy paints.

 Klass Kote

http://www.klasskote.com

sequence/weights:

https://stunthanger.com/smf/building-techniques/klasskote-epoxy-substrate/msg8903/#msg8903

Gary,

There is some excellent advice here, Klass Kote with automotive clear is also my first choice for glow powered models.  For some reason the epoxy clear coats always seem to yellow after a few years, automotive 2K clear does not.  We found years ago that while the clear is fuel proof, the basecoat colors are not.  After a while fuel would work its way under the clear and attack the basecoat creating a bubbling mess.  Using KK colors avoids this.

I get my Klass Kote from Leo at RC Missouri:  https://www.rcmissouri.com/klass-kote-paints.html    He gives a pretty good discount.  The white primer with spray catalyst is my favorite primer and I buy both parts in quarts.  As someone else mentioned in Brett's other thread, I always use the satin catalyst with Klass Kote colors.  I find it easier to spray, less time between color changes and it is very easy to sand masking lines.  Don't worry about the satin, the clear coat will bring the gloss back out and give you the wet look it's known for.


You probably already have gear from your autobody days, if not get the best mask you can find and a Tyvek suit to paint in.  Use it especially for the clear, also a very good idea with the epoxy paint.  Only spray with very good ventilation or outside.  Spray guns are another whole topic, I use a Sata, the Iwata is also quality stuff. GT