I use basecoat /clearcoat auto paint over Ultrakote just scuff it with 1500 paper or steel wool. Klass Kote will also work ( Epoxy paint two part)
I paint the fuse and then add clear to the who airplane Ultrakote and all does not add much weight as the Auto clear goes on very thin. Do not use trim that has to have any masking over it on the Monokote as it will peel up. just have your trim scheme have space between colors.

Jim,

Your system would still be almost the same if you substituted Rustoleum solid colors for the Lusterkote. In my opinion, Rustoleum is a better product than Lusterkote ever was.  (I've used both, and swore off LusterCrap after a couple of bad experiences with inferior product.) That said, there is no clear Rustoleum product that is suitable. So for your trim, come up with a method that is durable enough without the clear, or go read the endless posts about the two-part-in-one-can spray. Be careful, it is almost a religion....

If you are spraying Rustoleum over Monokote or similar, don't use the primer. The issue is that fuel will lift Rustoleum, so you can't let it contact an edge that has primer under it. The primer will wick fuel; it is not fuel-resistant. In other words, masking once and spraying primer, and then topcoat will result it lifting of your paint if it gets any fuel on it. It doesn't go thru the Rustoleum, it goes under it from the edge and you get a wrinkled gooey mess.

I have had success spraying trim over open bays, but in general I try to avoid schemes that require this.

I mask with electrical tape to get a sharp edge, and then scuff the Monokote with gray Scotchbrite. Wipedown with isopropyl. This seems to provide adequate adhesion. I have not seen any paint popping or chipping.

While Rustoleum is serviceable, I have mostly switched to KlassKote. It is better all around, except for convenience and cost. And it really needs to be sprayed. Since you are working without spray equipment, the Rustoleum looks like a good option. The other thing you might look at are the Duplicolor automotive spray cans. I have not used them, but have seen other planes turn out nicely. You would have to read up on it to be sure it would meet your needs. One potentially big advantage is the much different color selection. Rustoleum kind of covers the basic colors--period. That may not be the look you are after.

Don't forget about the Preval sprayer. If you are not doing large areas, that might open up your options without buying a spray outfit.

I'm sure there are dozens and dozens of past posts that go into details on 493 variations of rattle cans. You need to find one that suits your needs, skills, and tools. Just be careful that you are not mixing and matching pieces of systems that don't really work together. You know that drill. It is kind of like Mr. Toad's wild ride. Don't know where you are going. Don't know if you will get there. Not sure why you got on. But by golly, it's going to be a wild ride! (And the plane may turn out looking like a toad....)

Lots of really nice looking planes turned out via the rattle can methods. I'm sure you can find pictures here.

Divot McSlow

Jim,
I don't recall what I used for primer under the two planes that I tried LusterKote on. So I really can't say much about any compatibility issues. You could try searching the archives both here and over on Stuka Stunt. But with paint, you will have to take the advice with several grains of salt....

It would not surprise me if you could sand out your fuselage, then put down a coat of Rustoleum primer to get a uniform base, and then go right to a Rustoleum topcoat. I would recommend a sample panel if you have any more LusterKote. If not, try a small spot on the bottom somewhere.

There is no reason to attempt a clearcoat over the Rustoleum color coat. You might find something compatible, or you might find yourself on Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. There's lots of guys that like riding that for entertainment, and I wouldn't dare argue with any of them.

As far as the Rustoleum primer not being fuel proof, I guess the way I look at is that the balsa underneath is not fuel proof either. So you want to establish a barrier somewhere in the paint system. You know the topcoat has to be fuel proof, so that is enough if there are no penetration paths. The problem are the edges and holes. Since you simply don't need primer over MonoKote to apply Rustoleum, you don't have to make things harder.

I will say I have had difficulty with paint durability on cowlings using Rustoleum. These were either fiberglass cowls, or epoxy coated wood. Each of these used Rustoleum automotive primer. They seemed to wrinkle up starting around edges. So now I try to paint the entire part, encasing it completely, including thru any holes. Also, I would soften hard edges on structure so that the paint will go around them more smoothly. (Surface tension issues.) Maybe that would help. This info is still developing as I repair Other People's Planes (OPPs) and see how they hold up.

What is the type/brand of the spray polyurethane clear you purchased?

Again,  best of luck with your renewed project,

Divot McSlow

I haven't heard anything about silver. That would be a $5 experiment....

I have used blue, red, yellow, white, black and gray so far. I saw a Maui Blue on the rack recently. Got to be something good there. Maybe bands from dark to lighter with blue, Maui blue, gray and then white.

One OPP I am repairing now is Rusto Red and white. Color match was excellent. Rusto over silkspan (or polyspan?) on open bays. Seems to be ok. The finish is not as drum tight as dope would have been. Seems more flexible and stretchy. Flies fine.

Dave