stunthanger.com
Building Tips and technical articles. => Paint and finishing => Topic started by: jim on March 15, 2016, 10:56:59 AM
-
Can I paint a glow fuel control line plane in this way and be ok?
1. Cover wood with paper using a elmers glue and water or alcohol mix. Sand.
2.Spray wood with Minwax polycrylic sand .
3.Then spray with Rustolem Gloss protective Enamal.
Thanks
-
Can I paint a glow fuel control line plane in this way and be ok?
1. Cover wood with paper using a elmers glue and water or alcohol mix. Sand.
2.Spray wood with Minwax polycrylic sand .
3.Then spray with Rustolem Gloss protective Enamal.
Thanks
Jim,
You may be onto something creative there. H^^
The "decoupage" look on models. Has possibilities for graphics, insignias, lettering and magazine text.
As far as the Rust-o-leum clear, not sure but, I beleive I've read it's not fuel proof?
Decoupage, hmmm.
Charles
-
Probably. If you change step 1 to cover using Minwax Polycrylic, yes, definitely.
Rustoleum tends to be heavy, but I've built some nice (heavy) models finished with it.
-
Can I paint a glow fuel control line plane in this way and be ok?
1. Cover wood with paper using a elmers glue and water or alcohol mix. Sand.
2.Spray wood with Minwax polycrylic sand .
3.Then spray with Rustolem Gloss protective Enamal.
Thanks
\
Ok let me clear this up some.
1. Cover wood with silkspan using elmers white glue mixed with water or alcohol and water.Sand.
2. Spray with primer, sand.
3.Spray with Rustoleum Gloss protective enamel colored paint, not clear.
Wing will be covered with monokote or similar.
-
Fine. You can do that then.
When I do step 1, I use Minwax, and it works great. It works great for a lot of other people, too. But by all means, go your own way.
-
I noticed on my last trip to H.D. the minwax has a gloss that does not say poly-u anyplace. The regular min wax poly-u will yellow slightly. Is the min wax product you mentioned poly-U and is is fuel proof. I tried the Rustoleum clean and it's not happy about fuel in any way at all.
Thanks.'
Ken
-
Fine. You can do that then.
When I do step 1, I use Minwax, and it works great. It works great for a lot of other people, too. But by all means, go your own way.
Tim, not intending to upset you, i'm just trying to figure out how to do this.Are you saying you just spray the wood with minwax sand and then prime and sand then paint?I'm asking for quidence on this not trying to tell how to do it.I'm sorry if I came across in an offensive way.I'm not the greatest in communicating with others.Just wanting help.
Thanks Jim
-
I've detailed this all somewhere, so this is the synopsis:
- Paint the bare wood lightly with Minwax. You want to seal the surface without getting it wet (Minwax is water-based, and will warp things up if it's applied too heavily).
- Give the wood one or two more coats, sanding between coats
- Apply silkspan using Minwax to stick it down. Apply the silkspan damp, and don't be surprised when it grows a bit as you put it into the Minwax -- if you're doing it right you'll have Minwax on your fingers when you're done.
- Sand, Minwax, repeat. Try to sand down to the previous layer each time until all the holes are filled
- Sand once more for tack, and squirt on the Rustoleum. You can use Rustoleum primer, but I haven't had adhesion problems straight over Minwax
- Wait two weeks
- Fly
-
I've detailed this all somewhere, so this is the synopsis:
- Paint the bare wood lightly with Minwax. You want to seal the surface without getting it wet (Minwax is water-based, and will warp things up if it's applied too heavily).
- Give the wood one or two more coats, sanding between coats
- Apply silkspan using Minwax to stick it down. Apply the silkspan damp, and don't be surprised when it grows a bit as you put it into the Minwax -- if you're doing it right you'll have Minwax on your fingers when you're done.
- Sand, Minwax, repeat. Try to sand down to the previous layer each time until all the holes are filled
- Sand once more for tack, and squirt on the Rustoleum. You can use Rustoleum primer, but I haven't had adhesion problems straight over Minwax
- Wait two weeks
- Fly
Thank you Tim
-
Two other things I should mention, pertaining to warping:
It is tempting, when putting in center sheeting, to make the last little bit a tad oversize, and really jam it down. If you do this, and then go over it with Minwax, it'll swell and warp badly. So think ahead.
If you're doing a profile and the fuselage gets bent as it's drying, try gently heating it and bending it against the warp by about as much as the warp. Let it sit overnight, and see if it springs out straight. I've done this on a couple of planes with the Minwax/Rustoleum finish system, and they've come out straight. I've even had one that twisted in the sun that I successfully twisted back straight (and one that I couldn't -- that one I had to cut & glue to get it back where it belonged).
You will not get as nice a finish as a top-notch dope job with Rustoleum. But you can make it pretty good, quicker and with fewer smelly evenings.